Lol, "gentle" with it. Looks like a job well-done to me.V1 ribbon cable on Mariko. Works perfectly with V2 console.
I will definitely be more "gentle" with a ribbon cable next time. This one was just for the science.
Lol, "gentle" with it. Looks like a job well-done to me.V1 ribbon cable on Mariko. Works perfectly with V2 console.
I will definitely be more "gentle" with a ribbon cable next time. This one was just for the science.
nice!red marked position compared to V1 PATCH, added a 150 ohm resistor, successfully repaired vol+, for reference onlyWhat is the resistance value of lite on the diagram? Can someone help me? My LITE vol+may not work due to this, it is missing.
View attachment 364325
If the battery was still plugged in, it's possible that you accidentally shorted those 2 pads with your soldering iron when you accidentally removed that cap. Even when the 2 pads are shorted for only a second it could cause damage to other components on the board.I'm not sure, but It can be posible that battery was plugged on.
I didn't use the alternative point and my switch brokThe 3.3V cap soldering point is a dangerous point,this tiny cap is super fragile and easily broken and missing by soldering heat built up by seconds.The 3.3V wiring diagram mess up the micro soldering work.Just use the alternate point.
Tonight I will take the console to a person who is dedicated to fixing consoles.If the battery was still plugged in, it's possible that you accidentally shorted those 2 pads with your soldering iron when you accidentally removed that cap. Even when the 2 pads are shorted for only a second it could cause damage to other components on the board.
Unplug the battery, clean all flux residue with alcohol, remove any bridge that was made. Remove the rp2040.
If you have trouble removing the flux, and you have a hot air gun, heat up the flux to 100°C and add alcohol to dissolve the flux and clean it again.
If you have a multimeter, check continuity between the 2 pads. If it beeps then you probably have a short somewhere else on the motherboard. (maybe something is getting hot on the motherboard?)
If it doesn't beep, you could try turning it on.
You could also try measuring the voltage on those pads, one pad should read +/- 3.3v, the other should read 0v.
The switch should work without that cap.
If the switch still does not turn on it's best to leave the battery unplugged for now and let somebody who has experience with switch motherboards have a look at it.
if u dont want to have such issue with the usbport, buttons u will have to cut the shieldI had everything ready, put the metal backplate on and everything was still working, until I reinserted the plastic backplate. The excessive pressure probably damaged the 0.1mm cpu wire, as I started to get cyan LED. replaced the wire and everything is working again.
However, if this happens again, I'm having a meltdown I just want to be done with this mod!
I don't feel like cutting the shield, because I think that it would take extra effort to keep the rp2040 in place. What are the current methods of making it fit? Of course I remove buttons, usb port and 3.3v regulator already
No no, as I said, I already removed them.if u dont want to have such issue with the usbport, buttons u will have to cut the shield
if u use 2.64 there is no need for them anyway just remove them
u can update with picofly toolbox
Did you melt it with lavaV1 ribbon cable on Mariko. Works perfectly with V2 console.
I will definitely be more "gentle" with a ribbon cable next time. This one was just for the science.
lol sorry i didnt read all the way i guess Xd XdNo no, as I said, I already removed them.
However I'm still having problems on making it fit, so I was asking for methods or videos the show that properly
Ok, good that you have somebody to have it looked at.I didn't use the alternative point and my switch brok
Tonight I will take the console to a person who is dedicated to fixing consoles.
The Raspberry, the flex and the cables are disassembled and the console is closed, but with the battery connected.
It is increasingly clear to me that I have made some kind of short circuit but I don't know where, so I will take it to a professional.
What I do know for sure is that no smoke or burning smell came out, so if it is a short circuit, it may not have broken anything but it is unable to power on. I have also thought that it is a problem with the 3.3v regulator that is near the point to be soldered.
base from the yt videos and sthethix latest video
Its better for friction method since no more reballing/reheating and when you reheat it will crack 3 months+ down the line
If i were you, i am gonna open that up, and disconnect the battery. At least minimize the damage.I didn't use the alternative point and my switch brok
Tonight I will take the console to a person who is dedicated to fixing consoles.
The Raspberry, the flex and the cables are disassembled and the console is closed, but with the battery connected.
It is increasingly clear to me that I have made some kind of short circuit but I don't know where, so I will take it to a professional.
What I do know for sure is that no smoke or burning smell came out, so if it is a short circuit, it may not have broken anything but it is unable to power on. I have also thought that it is a problem with the 3.3v regulator that is near the point to be soldered.
I highly suggest you send it to someone who knows what they are doing. Shorting cap pins is the last thing you should have done. That's exactly as if you short the pins of a battery. I think by now at least the small 3.3v regulator is dead if not something else.I tried to bridge those pads without capacitor, but that was after the Switch Lite doesn't boot.
Is It dead or can a professional repair it? I was talking with a guy who repair Switch consoles. He told me my Nintendo should power on without this capacitor so he needs to check everything in motherboard carefully.
sthethix doesn't reflow the DAT0 adapter anymore because he states that the leaded solder used on the DAT0 adapter and the unleaded solder on the emmc don't go well together and the connection breaks after +/- 3 months due to thermal expansion.Hmmm, I hope not lol
I will have a look at that method, wondering what you mean at the moment *ponders brain*.
I use leaded solder because of thermal issues, I would love to reball using leaded solder.
I just checked this. I just wish to add 1 addon to it. The DAT0 ankor for OLED.
The battery stills connected since last night. Damage is done already, no?If i were you, i am gonna open that up, and disconnect the battery. At least minimize the damage.
who know just disconnect it , give it to him in parts hes gonna have to take it apart anywaysThe battery stills connected since last night. Damage is done already, no?
well then get some mosfets they should easly be availableguys i need some advice ive got everything needed for picofly install the resistors rp 2040 chip etc but not flex cable im unable to get it since over here in india ali expres is banned in my region any alternative except ali express where can i buy flex cable ???any advice will be highly appretiated
Just to confirm, it's okay to bridge these points?there is a much better point
it would be awesome to also cover the toolbox features in this guide