Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Brunh

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QuiTim

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the one you put on your switch v2 has no resistor
No, it doesn't.
The thing is that the gate voltage needs to be removed/stoped in order for mosfet to close.
Someone asked this question earlier and Rehius explained that the firmware has some line of code that deals with this matter so there is no need to add this resistor but seing as there are many variations in installations it wouldn't hurt to maybe add it.
I mean, if the guys who are already having this issue are willing to try this solution it would be a win-win for the comunity.
Mine is working fine for now but it only went to 3-4 power cycles since i've done the instalation so I have no way to tell.
 

jv_233

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No, it doesn't.
The thing is that the gate voltage needs to be removed/stoped in order for mosfet to close.
Someone asked this question earlier and Rehius explained that the firmware has some line of code that deals with this matter so there is no need to add this resistor but seing as there are many variations in installations it wouldn't hurt to maybe add it.
I mean, if the guys who are already having this issue are willing to try this solution it would be a win-win for the comunity.
Mine is working fine for now but it only went to 3-4 power cycles since i've done the instalation so I have no way to tell.
So in my case (I’m using a cpu sx lite flex) not much I can do? Or maybe adding a resistor to the cpu point on the pico board do anything?
 

QuiTim

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So in my case (I’m using a cpu sx lite flex) not much I can do? Or maybe adding a resistor to the cpu point on the pico board do anything?
Unfortunately you are right. The flex already has the resistor.
And no, that resistor (if placed) needs to bridge the connection of S and G so you should not add it to cpu point in the pico.
But, on the bright side I guess this confirms Rehius's statment (not that we ever doubted him :) ) that there is no need for that resistor in this installation.
 

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jv_233

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Unfortunately you are right. The flex already has the resistor.
And no, that resistor (if placed) needs to bridge the connection of S and G so you should not add it to cpu point in the pico.
But, on the bright side I guess this confirms Rehius's statment (not that we ever doubted him :) ) that there is no need for that resistor in this installation.
Got it, so hopefully later there will be a firmware update that might fix this? I mean having to power flush the switch 1 out of 40 times is no big deal and I’m not entering this oled in a glitching completion any time soon lol!
 
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Kire32

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Hi I am new doing this kind of things and I started following the Lightninjay’s guide.
After a few hours I managed to solder all the wires to its corresponding locations. Follwing the schemes and pictures provided.
My problem is when I plug In the battery and tru to turn on the system.
The Led turns on blue for a second and then it turns to pink, for another second or two.
After that, the screen remains all black but I can hear from the rp2040 a beep that never stops. I disconnected the battery and checked with the multimeter and yes, all the main pins are isolated.
I attach some photos of my installation (I know it’s horrible) and I hope some of you can help me to fix this.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you
 

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deeps

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Hi I am new doing this kind of things and I started following the Lightninjay’s guide.
After a few hours I managed to solder all the wires to its corresponding locations. Follwing the schemes and pictures provided.
My problem is when I plug In the battery and tru to turn on the system.
The Led turns on blue for a second and then it turns to pink, for another second or two.
After that, the screen remains all black but I can hear from the rp2040 a beep that never stops. I disconnected the battery and checked with the multimeter and yes, all the main pins are isolated.
I attach some photos of my installation (I know it’s horrible) and I hope some of you can help me to fix this.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you
This hurts to look at. You probably won't be able to fix this without cleaning up and redoing everything with better tools.

Looks like your CMD is bridged to the solder pads right next to it - among many other things.
 

QuiTim

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Hi I am new doing this kind of things and I started following the Lightninjay’s guide.
After a few hours I managed to solder all the wires to its corresponding locations. Follwing the schemes and pictures provided.
My problem is when I plug In the battery and tru to turn on the system.
The Led turns on blue for a second and then it turns to pink, for another second or two.
After that, the screen remains all black but I can hear from the rp2040 a beep that never stops. I disconnected the battery and checked with the multimeter and yes, all the main pins are isolated.
I attach some photos of my installation (I know it’s horrible) and I hope some of you can help me to fix this.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you
Bro, there is no way to put this mildly, your installation is all over the place.
You need to clean everything and make sure there is no solder residue (i think I see some drops of solder but it might be just the picture quality).
Then clean the flux aswell and try to take some better pictures.
Also check that soldering point on the first capacitor, it does not look good (but again, it might be the picture quality).
Also check the G point in mosfet
 

ecko4711

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Hi, is there any other point where I can solder DAT0, 3,3v and GND for v1 Switch? I think after soldering so much I should try other pinpoints. I kind of got my switch back working and yeah when I still use the same soldering points I still get blue cyan.
 

jv_233

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Hi I am new doing this kind of things and I started following the Lightninjay’s guide.
After a few hours I managed to solder all the wires to its corresponding locations. Follwing the schemes and pictures provided.
My problem is when I plug In the battery and tru to turn on the system.
The Led turns on blue for a second and then it turns to pink, for another second or two.
After that, the screen remains all black but I can hear from the rp2040 a beep that never stops. I disconnected the battery and checked with the multimeter and yes, all the main pins are isolated.
I attach some photos of my installation (I know it’s horrible) and I hope some of you can help me to fix this.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you
Did you use a flamethrower to solder your joints? Omg…
 
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detilmalala

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hello guys, check, where do I have to solder the cpu mosfet cable in the hwfly, because I have one, without the flex and I want to use it, regards...

Ícono de validado por la comunidad
 

MrQQ

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Hi I am new doing this kind of things and I started following the Lightninjay’s guide.
After a few hours I managed to solder all the wires to its corresponding locations. Follwing the schemes and pictures provided.
My problem is when I plug In the battery and tru to turn on the system.
The Led turns on blue for a second and then it turns to pink, for another second or two.
After that, the screen remains all black but I can hear from the rp2040 a beep that never stops. I disconnected the battery and checked with the multimeter and yes, all the main pins are isolated.
I attach some photos of my installation (I know it’s horrible) and I hope some of you can help me to fix this.
Any help is appreciated. Thank you
I knew after some time this thread would cause this kind of thing....this is totally shocking!
 

nico77

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is it OK ? to use this point as alternative for GND ? (number 2 )
i saw some user using it.
is it gonna work??
GND question.png


GND alternative.png


im planning solder to micro sd cover ? is it work?
 

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