Can send linkI’ve just received the “New” DAT0 adapter. They look like the “good” ones, am I right?
Can send linkI’ve just received the “New” DAT0 adapter. They look like the “good” ones, am I right?
Yep, these look good. Just dont push too hard on them since the contact point looks a bit long and might bend sideways if alot of pressure is put to it.I’ve just received the “New” DAT0 adapter. They look like the “good” ones, am I right?
Very nice, thank you for your efforts and detail diagrams.@QuiTim @jkyoho thank you for your patience; here is the diagram for how I attached the status LED to the joy-con PCB. I removed the original home button LED in my installation, though it may be possible to mount the status LED directly next to the original, as the LED used on the RP2040 zero is smaller than the one on my seeed xiao RP2040. I also cut a hole in the rubber membrane between the button and the motherboard, to accommodate the LED and make certain the button could depress properly.
View attachment 380935
DIN point on the RP2040-Zero:
View attachment 380940
points to connect the LED DIN line from the RP2040 to the joy-con rail ribbon connector (first is v1/v2, second is oled):
View attachment 380939View attachment 380936
edit: while I have the photoshop file open, here is a diagram for how I wired my lite install as well. this one is far more practical and I have seen a couple other people do it since my first post, so it would be fun to see more home button lights moving forward
View attachment 380957
Can we use the official led? since the color doesn't matter, it's just long or short led pulse, no?@QuiTim @jkyoho thank you for your patience; here is the diagram for how I attached the status LED to the joy-con PCB. I removed the original home button LED in my installation, though it may be possible to mount the status LED directly next to the original, as the LED used on the RP2040 zero is smaller than the one on my seeed xiao RP2040. I also cut a hole in the rubber membrane between the button and the motherboard, to accommodate the LED and make certain the button could depress properly.
View attachment 380935
DIN point on the RP2040-Zero:
View attachment 380940
points to connect the LED DIN line from the RP2040 to the joy-con rail ribbon connector (first is v1/v2, second is oled):
View attachment 380939View attachment 380936
edit: while I have the photoshop file open, here is a diagram for how I wired my lite install as well. this one is far more practical and I have seen a couple other people do it since my first post, so it would be fun to see more home button lights moving forward
View attachment 380957
No, unfortunately. I believe original LED from lite or right joycon is single white light LED.Can we use the official led? since the color doesn't matter, it's just long or short led, no?
What is your opinion if the error code is throws to the audio speaker.
Since speaker exist on every tipe of switch?
i'm doing all my installs with 100 ohm resistors for dat0/cmd and 47 ohm for clk. haven't had any ofw problems with any switch yet.
As the dat0 is only for OLED, do you use the 100 ohm resistor for the v1, v2 and lite as well?i'm doing all my installs with 100 ohm resistors for dat0/cmd and 47 ohm for clk. haven't had any ofw problems with any switch yet.
You need dat0 for all models. Oled just happens to be extra pain in the a§ to get toAs the dat0 is only for OLED, do you use the 100 ohm resistor for the v1, v2 and lite as well?
Apologies, yes, I didn't add the word adapter for the dat0.You need dat0 for all models. Oled just happens to be extra pain in the a§ to get to
Apologies, yes, I didn't add the word adapter for the dat0.
So, my even with out a dat0 adapter its advised to use 100 ohm resistor?
Yes, resistors need to be added on all installations. And after a few months and alot of people doing this mod it seems that it is better to use 100ohm on dat0 and cmd and leave the same 47ohm on clk.Apologies, yes, I didn't add the word adapter for the dat0.
So, my even with out a dat0 adapter its advised to use 100 ohm resistor?
47ohm (92ohm in total)
What a big piece of bullshit xDLook at this POS:
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1500188493/mail-in-mod-service-for-oled-v1-v2-lite?click_key=816a8141040b903c5b9f744a8ee4bae922cf05d7:1500188493&click_sum=578b89d8&ref=shop_home_feat_3
"Kindly note that there are a few vendors on Etsy who offer a similar service at a lower cost. Their approach involves using a low-cost PR2040 board and tampering with the EMMC of your Switch. It is important to note that if Nintendo releases an update to combat copyright infringement, your Switch may become permanently unusable. On the other hand, the mod we use is safe and reversible. We can easily undo the mod if Nintendo introduces an update to prevent it."
WTF! This is the same seller that @lightninjay highlighted a week or so back about selling rp2040 with resistors and usb removed for £30. What a POS (From England).
LOL... I know the resistors need to be used on the install. I was asking, as you chimed in to my quoted question to another member, regarding using the 100 ohm on the dat0 and CLK. My question was specifically for the OLED because its a little different and requires the dat0 adapter. But, it seems like you answered my question -- I'll be using 100 ohm resistors for the dat0 and CLK and the 47 ohm other connections requiring a resistor on any version I mod.Yes, resistors need to be added on all installations. And after a few months and alot of people doing this mod it seems that it is better to use 100ohm on dat0 and cmd and leave the same 47ohm on clk.
I used 47 on all 3 point in all my installations and I only needed to add second 47ohm (92ohm in total) to dat0 once in an upatched V1.
But I will use 100ohm in any future installs just to see what happens.
Hahahahhaha damn right they are, and a well deserved one. Better correct this one before everyone starts asking about my "secret" 92ohm setupthe math police is gonna write you a ticket for this
What a chuckleF*$&, they even used the graphic I made for all three switches in the guide, ripped it straight from the PDF, font and all.Look at this POS:
https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/1500188493/mail-in-mod-service-for-oled-v1-v2-lite?click_key=816a8141040b903c5b9f744a8ee4bae922cf05d7:1500188493&click_sum=578b89d8&ref=shop_home_feat_3
"Kindly note that there are a few vendors on Etsy who offer a similar service at a lower cost. Their approach involves using a low-cost PR2040 board and tampering with the EMMC of your Switch. It is important to note that if Nintendo releases an update to combat copyright infringement, your Switch may become permanently unusable. On the other hand, the mod we use is safe and reversible. We can easily undo the mod if Nintendo introduces an update to prevent it."
WTF! This is the same seller that @lightninjay highlighted a week or so back about selling rp2040 with resistors and usb removed for £30. What a POS (From England).
I'll be using 100 ohm resistors for the dat0 and CLK and the 47 ohm other connections requiring a resistor on any version I mod.