the update finishes only on the successful glitch. otherwise it reverts back automatically. at least in my firmwares
Hey, might be answered already but I couldn't find an asnwer as this thread is huge. I installed a xiao rp2040 on a Switch Lite and I get an unstable glitch and boot to OFW. It only works when I press the reset. I added the SDA and SCL but I still get the same problem but now I don't get past the Nintendo logo. Am I dumb, or am I not wiring the wires correctly? According to the guide I have to solder a wire for SDA, SCL to pin 3 and 4 and that should be on the D0 resistor and CPU pads respectively.
Although my soldering is not best probably, I'm still experienced enough to know if its not done correctly as I regularly fix smd components on Switches. I've installed picofly on 10 switches and never had an issue but I can't figure this one out for the life of me!
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Ok I reworked a bit on the V1 that was giving me problems and now I can get to boot into hekate but like only once!
After that, I get =*== error (eMMC test failure - read failed) and the console just boots into stock.
If I detach the battery for a while and the try again, the same behaviour occurs (hekate first boot, then always stock with =*== error)
Diode readings look good. I installed with the mosfet on the back of the motherboard.
What do I have to check here?
After that, I get =*== error (eMMC test failure - read failed) and the console just boots into stock.
If I detach the battery for a while and the try again, the same behaviour occurs (hekate first boot, then always stock with =*== error)
Diode readings look good. I installed with the mosfet on the back of the motherboard.
What do I have to check here?
Damn! My dumbass had the wrong pads completely. Just tried it and it works perfectly! Thx
Rather than dirt on the connector, in some cases problems like these relate to the connector coming loose from the PCB Usually the motherboard rather than the emmc board.
If you have a spare/working emmc board then you could use that to test whether it's the emmc board.
Sometimes just reflowing it solves the issue.
If not, removing it for a visual inspection might be an idea.
There might be a small crack in the trace under the connector.
Everything is so tiny that it's easy to apply too much force when removing/adding the emmc board.
Are these firmware updates compatible with all of these styles of PicoFly's from Aliexpress? Just want to make sure because I would like to flash them. Better to flash prior to installing them? Thanks.
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I don't know, as long they didn't change the pinout, it might work.
I am pretty sure it works, though.
Hwfly team is excellent, i am sure they didn't change the pin so the buyer could use the original firmware. They might change the resistance value on cmd/clk/dat0, which we in here also changing according to our own experience.
Last edited by abal1000x,
Yesterday I got a new board from a donor switch and it worked great. I’ve soldered the Chip in and it Booted to hekate I did an Emmc Backup and a Prodkey backup. Then I booted to ofw all worked great. But now if I go to the emmc section in hekate it says it’s in slow mode and I can’t boot the sysnand anymore. Maybe the flex is not connected perfetctly anymore because I’m using the AliExpress rp2040 lite with flex cable.
If u have slow mode issues add another 47 ohm resistor to dat0 and cmd.
Now since u have a hwfly board ur gonna find out wich resistor is for DAT 0 and which one is for cmd.
Post automatically merged:
Do u really think they would write there own code for the picofly ?
Hahahahaha
You really think that’s the issue? Couldn’t it be my soldering? Because first I could backup the nand and boot ofw trough hekate with no problems. Now OFW doesn’t want to boot and atmosphere gives error with emmc
Are there some 47ohm ones on the switch lite board I can take from my donor board? Or maybe from a RP2040 normal size one?
Naaa I would say its the emmc board , since its glued to the WiFi cover , if u don't take it off properly that changes are very high that u bend the emmc board and damage the solder balls.
Try pressing on the emmc itself if that doesn't work reflow the emmc.
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Dude if u don't wanna trust answers from the forum then don't ask.
There are dozens of Chinese trying to be better and sell higher, absolutely no such thing as "the only amazing Hwfly team". For example, some mysterious guy have asked me to change the "picofly" picture with a rocket one for a really high price. Although I refused to do that (what a dumb thing), some time later "rocket" picoflies appeared on Aliexpress. wtf with those people
That's crazy man.
I know not all Chinese are bad and trying to take advantage of everything.
That's why I don't really support people who buy those hwfly rp2040 and clones.
This was a community project which u and others made possible.
A few days after the open Firmware got released the Hwfly chips went from 150 $to 30$
Then they disappeared for a couple weeks.
Then All the sudden u see rp2040 all over aliexpress.
With preflashed picofly firmware there making money off of something they stole.
That's why I always say buy the zero/tiny supported boards and not the clones.
That way people know what they get and don't support those thieves.
For anyone in the future with the same problem, I'm not completely sure why and how, but it appears that the problem was the mosfet. I reworked it using a little less solder and now it's all working like a charm.
Maybe it was shorting after a normal heat cycle, but this is just my take
Sorry i just wanted to sort things out because of the desaster last time with the Board. Thank you for your help man! Next time i will use a normal Pico Zero from Waveshare.
This time i have a Nand Backup BOOT1 and BOOT2 and Keys...
I started into hekate and this time no error with EMMC. I tried launching OFW But i got Nintendo Logo then Blackscreen i forced a shut down and started it again and got Nintendo Logo (no hekate) then off again and got a Bluescreen ... I nearly got an Heart attack.... I powered it down and started it up with no SD Card and got Picofly Logo. Then i removed both Flex Cables from the Pico and powered it back on and it started up normally... Puhhhh my heart fell. I thought i messed it up again. Now im waiting for the 47Ohms resistors i bought 0603 and 0805 just in case. But im not sure how to fit them onto the chip. i can see the traces but i need to cut off the trace after the first 47ohms one and solder mine inbetween its so tiny... Do i need the second 47 ohm capacitor because of the Samsung EMMC?
My soldering doesn’t look that clean this time…
Last edited by Marax,
Honestly the flex cable with the A, D, 3.3v, and GND, connections is absolute trash and you'd be better off with flying 0.1mm cables for those three lines and 0.2mm for 3.3v and gnd.
That way you can also solder the resistors directly on the points on the chip, without cutting lines or doing some crazy small soldering
What about the new 17.0.0 firmware?
I've read that switch doesn't boot with picofly. No picofly logo.
OFW seems work.
Hwfly and instinct not tested yet.
I've read that switch doesn't boot with picofly. No picofly logo.
OFW seems work.
Hwfly and instinct not tested yet.
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just tested, even with hekate 6.0.6 bin, rp2040 glitch on HOS 17.0.0 NO issue.
glitching and CFW support is totally different thing, Too many misleading concept around
Last edited by jkyoho,
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