Every boot, the firmware will use existing 'Saved Point'.
If the 'Saved point' somehow failed to glitch then it will try to found another point which could and save it.
The next boot, will try those saved point, and if its failed, it will find another point, and so on, and so on.
So ideally the more you reboot it, the more faster it get. Since the firmware have a bigger list of 'Saved point'.
Try to reboot it again and again. The glitch time should improved.
If it didnt then something hardware-wise is unstable and changing the point randomly.
This "Point" is directly about the timing reference. So the number one suspect of unstability is the CLK.
That’s good to know. Thank you for that information. I think I just assumed that the boot would be almost instant considering those three points are connected straight to emmc chip via the reball adapter.
I literally have no idea how so many people have dat0 adapters getting loose! I have done over 80 oled consoles all wtih dat0 adapters and i have not got back not even ONE console with loose connection on dat0 even after 1,5 years !!
I love this emmc reball adapter from @abal1000x. Already successfully used it a few times.
In my last system, I have a weird problem where the touch screen doesn't work after reballing. The connector and ribbon cable look to be in great shape. Does anyone know if there are any vias or traces under the emmc that can be damaged causing the touch screen to not work?
I love this emmc reball adapter from @abal1000x. Already successfully used it a few times.
In my last system, I have a weird problem where the touch screen doesn't work after reballing. The connector and ribbon cable look to be in great shape. Does anyone know if there are any vias or traces under the emmc that can be damaged causing the touch screen to not work?
It is possible that when you are reflowing the emmc the LCD connector lose some connections. Check with the microscope. I find it useful to close the latch of the connector when reflowing, it tends to bend when it is opened.
The rp2040 zero is working but you know the thing it does when its booting for the first time and it goes white and then blue and then yellow meaning success. Well its going white all the time, that's not supposed to happen right? none of my other rp2040 do it. so what could be happening that the white light appears all of the time?
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Also another switch oled that i have, i finished the install and everything turned out great but when i turn it on, nothing happened, no light no nothin. Went and checked and found the 3.3v pinout being grounded. but why? what could've happened that it turned into ground. What could i do to try and resolve this, please and thanks!
in the pic i took out the cable to see if that was the issue that's why it looks like that but it was a clean solder before lol
The rp2040 zero is working but you know the thing it does when its booting for the first time and it goes white and then blue and then yellow meaning success. Well its going white all the time, that's not supposed to happen right? none of my other rp2040 do it. so what could be happening that the white light appears all of the time?
Post automatically merged:
Also another switch oled that i have, i finished the install and everything turned out great but when i turn it on, nothing happened, no light no nothin. Went and checked and found the 3.3v pinout being grounded. but why? what could've happened that it turned into ground. What could i do to try and resolve this, please and thanks!
in the pic i took out the cable to see if that was the issue that's why it looks like that but it was a clean solder before lol
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Again you get what you pay for, its like buying a S series for $300 but its only 1440p native, if you want true 4k, gotta get the X model for $500. But yea you right, when moms buying it anyways, you gotta stay cheap.
I here ya there, I have too many myself, and have hard time letting them go, since most of mine I've modded at some point. Anymore I just play Switch on the go, seriesx at home.
I'm designing my own entertainment cabinet for my man cave, to store all my systems, then I'm also designing a power supply/HDMI switcher so I can switch to whichever system I want, and power it also. Already picked up the cabinet board, but tinkering with my drawings before start
But yea, I have frogger arcade cabinet that I gutted and put a Pi4 then Pi5 into, but it never gets played much anymore, should sell it. Even when the kids come over, they don't want to play on it, just the xbox. TMNT and Simpson's arcade is still so fun on it, esp w 2 players.