Im double posting my question in this thread since it has more people:
Question regarding mosfet installs and 0 ohm resistors. Someone pointed out that with the mosfet route you have no failboat if there is a problem, and the mosfet could pump current and fry the apu.
HM. Educate me. The mosfet gates are normally opened. They only close and let current pass through when voltage is applyed from the pico. The current bypasses the cap through the mosfet and goest into other places,stalling the proccesor.
A severed connection to the picofly command wont make anything bad since the mosfet wont be closed (I have previously powered on boards without problems with only the mosfet installed,without picofly ) right?
Im not sure how a short on picofly will affect the mosfet functionality . From what i know, since we are powering the picofly from the nintendo board, if there is a short on the picofly (therefore also putting a short on the nintendo board), it wont attempt to boot (the nintendo board) aka no voltage on the proccesor/cap? Im asking.
Post automatically merged: 48 minutes ago
can i do this and have same effect like the flex apu?
Or it needs to be like this? (second picture is similar to flex, but hard to replicate in real life )
Also what resistor should i get? I found a 0603(0ohms) with a power rating of 0.1W . is 0.1W enough?
Question regarding mosfet installs and 0 ohm resistors. Someone pointed out that with the mosfet route you have no failboat if there is a problem, and the mosfet could pump current and fry the apu.
HM. Educate me. The mosfet gates are normally opened. They only close and let current pass through when voltage is applyed from the pico. The current bypasses the cap through the mosfet and goest into other places,stalling the proccesor.
A severed connection to the picofly command wont make anything bad since the mosfet wont be closed (I have previously powered on boards without problems with only the mosfet installed,without picofly ) right?
Im not sure how a short on picofly will affect the mosfet functionality . From what i know, since we are powering the picofly from the nintendo board, if there is a short on the picofly (therefore also putting a short on the nintendo board), it wont attempt to boot (the nintendo board) aka no voltage on the proccesor/cap? Im asking.
Post automatically merged: 48 minutes ago
can i do this and have same effect like the flex apu?
Or it needs to be like this? (second picture is similar to flex, but hard to replicate in real life )
Also what resistor should i get? I found a 0603(0ohms) with a power rating of 0.1W . is 0.1W enough?
I´ve the same problem with my OLED. With everything soldered (picofly, mosfet back install, DAT0 flex adapter), I can boot to hekate and start payloads (CFW and others). Starting OFW results direct in a purple screen.
swapping the 4.7k resistor with a new one (tried it three times) and desoldering all picofly components doesn´t work. everytime I get a purple screen. Measuring resistor value still gets me 4.7k. Any other ideas? I´m completly helpless.
Out of curiosity, what shop are y'all using on aliexpress nowadays for getting an OLED hwfly in the US? Or are there better options to get one now?
Thanks again for the advice. I tinned up some 30 awg wire and used that as a wick for the solder to follow. Got big ol globs of solder now, and still getting ==*.
One thing I noticed was the little component (capacitor?) sometimes reads as having resistance and continuity. Could I potentially have shorted this cap? If so, would the switch still boot?
Thanks again!
Edit: FWIW the "continuity" shows a ~20 ohm resistance that slowly starts to drop, so afaik that may just be the capacitor doing capacitor things. Just touching probe tips is ~0.1 ohm.
One thing I noticed was the little component (capacitor?) sometimes reads as having resistance and continuity. Could I potentially have shorted this cap? If so, would the switch still boot?
Thanks again!
Edit: FWIW the "continuity" shows a ~20 ohm resistance that slowly starts to drop, so afaik that may just be the capacitor doing capacitor things. Just touching probe tips is ~0.1 ohm.
I don't know what exactly you have in mind, but it looks like a joke. A 0 Ohm resistor, do you intend to make a short circuit why don't you just use a wire?
What exactly do you intend to do? Do you mean this pull-down resistor?
If so, I have found this.
https://gbatemp.net/threads/picofly-a-hwfly-switch-modchip.622701/post-10131721
Others write 1000 Ohm resistance.
But I cannot judge what is really true and whether this is important.
What I can confirm, however, is that your drawing would work if there were no 0 Ohm resistor. You need only a suitable resistor between Source (aka GND) and Gate (aka pin 15). Done.
Last edited by Moneyforthecash,
yes i had the wrong value. its a 1k ohm resistor.
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Man, that connection is very ugly. But i guess it´s not working because some times Source and Gate on mosfet are open to ground. It happened to me with some mosfets too. You need to check continuity in source and gate to groud (Drain) with your multimeter. If it is, you need to close it (red probe in source, black probe in drain). After that, Mosfet will work without problem. Why dont you installed the Mosfet directly on CPU without the need to go to under layer of the motherboard?
just like this :
Post automatically merged:
There´s no sutch thing has a 0 hom resistor.If it´s zero, it means there is no resistance effect in the electricity passage, so it´s a bridge not a resistor. I never understood why people are still using 2 mosfets, or mosfets with pull-down resistors. There are so many working proof of those simple methods with just 1 mosfet directly to only one capacitor on the cpu. I use it on every Switch Models and never ever had any problem with that.Allways instant glitch. So i guess people just like to complicate simple circuits.
Last edited by Viktorsilva,
Nope I thought I should order some but I did order the resistors. I will update you Friday around 9pm cst
I won't know until tomorrow but I'll update you once I replace the resistor
Post automatically merged:
Amazon. Didn't know they had them.
It certainly is very ugly! I will own that!
As to why on the back? I didn't feel like messing with the lid on the CPU nor taking my awful soldering near there. This is my learning experience, so I wanted space to move around.
I want to make sure I understand what you mean by continuity to ground. You are saying to test the following:
Source > Ground
Gate > Ground
Drain > Ground
If I'm understanding you correctly, Drain should be continuous to ground? So a passing Mosfet would look like this:
Source =/= Ground
Gate =/= Ground
Drain = Ground
Source =/= Gate
Is that correct? Thanks!
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but N-channel mosfets usually have the source directly connected to the ground.
So you should measure continuity between ground and the source and no continuity between any other combination.
The picture already okay. I suspect the mosfet is bad. Try to change with other mosfet.
Without any wire connected to the mosfet, you should test continuity putting red probe in Source and black probe in Drain, and after that check Gate to drain too. it should´t have continuity it means that channel is open. If it does, you need to invert polarity with your multimeter to close it. I bought 20 Mosfet´s from www.reichelt.com and 8 of them had Source open to Drain, wich will give me error ==* . When i realized it, i found that you can close it by inverting polarity with red and black probe (the continuity test has a very low electrical current but enough to activate the native function of the diode inside the Mosfet) .
hmm now i have error message "failed to init eMMC". I know that worked before, because I had made an complete nand backup. Any ideas why there is a emmc error? i have a waveshare tiny with added 51 ohm to cmd and DAT0. multimeter verified.
This mosfet: https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/infineon-technologies/IRFHS8342TRPBF/2523446
| N-Channel 30 V 8.8A (Ta), 19A (Tc) 2.1W (Ta) Surface Mount 6-PQFN (2x2) (DFN2020) |
I tried the polarity switch thing with the current mosfet and it didn't respond, so I'm going to swap them out. Three down, seven to go!
EDIT: Replaced the mosfet -- no change. Replaced the source wire -- no change. If I've somehow damaged or shorted the capacitor, would that give the same result, or would that prevent booting entirely? Do I need to just drown the links between the mosfet and the cap with solder, or would this 30awg suffice?
Thanks again.
Edit 2: Would running lines from SDA and SDL potentially help?
Last edited by MrScopi,
Never doing this method again. First time it happens and i alsmout shit myself. In the future ill just stop beeing lazzy and put low solder on it and heat it with the iron till it comes loose.
How bad is it? I can see second layer . I ve looked at scans and there doesnt seem to be anything there except ground layer
How bad is it? I can see second layer . I ve looked at scans and there doesnt seem to be anything there except ground layer
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Nothing there unless you ripped through 3rd layer.
FYI, I dont see any point cutting off the bracket more than this much
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