What i mean by 'pull up' is the cmd line normal is high voltage, data low voltage.
Resistor under the triangle is the cmd line pullup resistor its should be 4k7 (cmiiw).
From the datasheet of the emmc
Resistor under the triangle is the cmd line pullup resistor its should be 4k7 (cmiiw).
From the datasheet of the emmc
From 17.0 + you have to launch the console in syscfw first after doing unbrick (sthetix method). Did you try it? If you have tried it but no result then it definitely hardware related. To check this you can run android to test. If the console can use android mean that your emmc issue , if not then you can be sure that it is hardware related. The "nintendo" then shut off causes by myriad reason you have to check it your self. The last time i fixed one was the dram getting very hot when booting. Some mosfet can cause it too but sadly you have to check yourself there is no way to be sure which one is causing it.
My friend I don't think its a hardware issue. If that was the case you would never reach this stage of the boot process.
Take it step by step.
If there's a problem in your emuNAND it can be fixed since the least requirement is your prodinfo in order to restore it. Fixing your sysNAND can be a different story depending on what kind of errors you're facing.
Which firmware were you using? Missing keys can prevent you from booting.
I remember when 17.0 first came out I forget to include the newer keys which lead to the boot screen to get stuck.
I think both your systems stopped was sheer coincidence and by that I mean you didn't know the condition of your sysNAND just BEFORE the emuNAND problem.
Hello guys,
Sorry Im out of the topic but I throw a bottle here in case
Im looking for a cnc milling machine or a fiber laser to do PCB reverse engineering and Im sure here I can find some specialists !
The goal is too delayer a PCB. I would like to have as a project to RE the next switch when it will be released or participate at least to the documentation (make a BOM etc…) On the actual switch we have 10 layers.
I already have equipments as microscope, tools, multimeters, oscilloscope, power supply, infrared camera etc… And I would like now a cnc or a fiber laser to go farther.
Sorry Im out of the topic but I throw a bottle here in case
Im looking for a cnc milling machine or a fiber laser to do PCB reverse engineering and Im sure here I can find some specialists !
The goal is too delayer a PCB. I would like to have as a project to RE the next switch when it will be released or participate at least to the documentation (make a BOM etc…) On the actual switch we have 10 layers.
I already have equipments as microscope, tools, multimeters, oscilloscope, power supply, infrared camera etc… And I would like now a cnc or a fiber laser to go farther.
Boot1 boot0 prod kyes and new mmc and donor nand donor prod kyes...
Level 1 unbrike well help you...Well you should direct that to him not me. I was advising him how to restore his emuNAND.Boot1 boot0 prod kyes and new mmc and donor nand donor prod kyes...
A CNC milling machine that is precise enough to remove 1 layer will cost you a fortune.Hello guys,
Sorry Im out of the topic but I throw a bottle here in case
Im looking for a cnc milling machine or a fiber laser to do PCB reverse engineering and Im sure here I can find some specialists !
The goal is too delayer a PCB. I would like to have as a project to RE the next switch when it will be released or participate at least to the documentation (make a BOM etc…) On the actual switch we have 10 layers.
A copper layer on a PCB is around 0.03 mm in height.
Fine grid sandpaper is much more affordable and much more reliable.
That is how most people delayer PCBs :
https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/nintendo-switch.3998/
I found a solution for OLED switches with Dat0 adapter which are capricious and refuse to start.
I tap lightly on the place indicated in the photo, this is obviously enough to put the adapter back on the chip and the console then starts on Atmosphere.
Could this pose a real risk for the console?
I tap lightly on the place indicated in the photo, this is obviously enough to put the adapter back on the chip and the console then starts on Atmosphere.
Could this pose a real risk for the console?
Did this a couple of times on the first Oled I moded (for a friend) but after a while it did not work anymore so I changed the dat0 adapter and still works to this day (while taking a beating constantly from his 2 kids).I found a solution for OLED switches with Dat0 adapter which are capricious and refuse to start.
I tap lightly on the place indicated in the photo, this is obviously enough to put the adapter back on the chip and the console then starts on Atmosphere.
Could this pose a real risk for the console?
Now, after some experience with these consoles, I think this is not a wise thing to do since depending on how loose the adapter is and which side is leaning toward to under emmc it might lead to corruption of nand or maybe some other “mysterious” issues that we faced here while using dat0 adapters.
Better to redo the work (or better yet do a reball or kamikaze) than to rely on a “lucky slap”
Joycon buzzing play cult of lamb and 3 to 4 days the adapter move littel bit and the cfw not working so i open console and fix adapter with new one add bit more iron under the point that conect to dat0 iron ball and to gnd legs and now cfw working...
Wow, i never really thought about it but i think you are right, the joycon vibration could actually play a big role on displacing dat0. After all, Nikola Tesla almost knocked down an entire building using a small vibrating machine.Joycon buzzing play cult of lamb and 3 to 4 days the adapter move littel bit and the cfw not working so i open console and fix adapter with new one add bit more iron under the point that conect to dat0 iron ball and to gnd legs and now cfw working...
Last edited by QuiTim,
lol flux capacitor, docs from go back to the future
Post automatically merged:
common issue on flex dat0 adapterI found a solution for OLED switches with Dat0 adapter which are capricious and refuse to start.
I tap lightly on the place indicated in the photo, this is obviously enough to put the adapter back on the chip and the console then starts on Atmosphere.
Could this pose a real risk for the console?
Does it fit under the metal shield on the lite or do you need to cut the shield?
Yes,with 0.6 mm pcb ,0.5mm 3m tape and kapton on top, but in that position the shield create same pressure on rp ic and flash .
Last edited by Modificatorul,
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