Picofly AIO Thread

[jkyoho]

Dont be so affarid of

Yes - when I do that I get the bootloader window with the two files as mentioned in the guide. I drop the 2.65 uf2 file in the window, it copies over and the window closes, but no LED flash. I've tried repeating the process a few times to no avail. Also tried to flash nuke.

likely LED on your rp2040 bad.
Can you take close up shot on your LED?

 

[lightninjay]

Yes - when I do that I get the bootloader window with the two files as mentioned in the guide. I drop the 2.65 uf2 file in the window, it copies over and the window closes, but no LED flash. I've tried repeating the process a few times to no avail. Also tried to flash nuke.

I seem to recall Rehius mentioning something about certain RP2040-Zero's not being detected properly by the firmware. Try flashing 2.61-2.64 and see if any of those throw a light at you. If not, then I would say you may have a defective LED. Try finding a simple RP2040 LED flash script online for the waveshare rp2040 (I'm sure there are plenty of test/noob guides that would include this sort of script) and see if the LED works with a program that is explicitly only calling the LED.

That would prove whether or not the neopixel is bad.

 

[Dee87]

do u get led when u normaly plug in the adapter after u flashed it ?

 

[Adran_Marit]

In my opinion, new users use Firmware 2.5 because the first post specifies that it corrects compatibility with the Toshiba chip. It's easy to get confused, if it says Toshiba, those who have Toshiba let themselves be deceived.

So, in the first post I would also add that the firmware to use is 2.64 (2.65, from what I read, seems to have some incompatibility with some switches).

Furthermore, it should be written in BOLD that sincero Firmware 2.5 it is not possible to update via toolbox to prevent new users from always making the same mistakes (including me, luckily I had the boot0/boot backup, 1).

All this, in my humble opinion.

updated to say not to use firmware from the archive folder unless told to.

 

[abal1000x]

updated to say not to use firmware from the archive folder unless told to.

Theres new fw2.66 bug fix on fuse burn when doing update.

 

[Adran_Marit]

Theres new fw2.66 bug fix on fuse burn when doing update.

I just saw that reading the other thread

 

[bibimbap940]

Dont be so affarid of

likely LED on your rp2040 bad.
Can you take close up shot on your LED?

Attached a pic.

I seem to recall Rehius mentioning something about certain RP2040-Zero's not being detected properly by the firmware. Try flashing 2.61-2.64 and see if any of those throw a light at you. If not, then I would say you may have a defective LED. Try finding a simple RP2040 LED flash script online for the waveshare rp2040 (I'm sure there are plenty of test/noob guides that would include this sort of script) and see if the LED works with a program that is explicitly only calling the LED.

That would prove whether or not the neopixel is bad.

Thanks for the suggestions. I tried flashing 2.61-2.64, no luck on the LED. I also tried another FW (not picofly) that's supposed to flash the LED, but still no luck.

Seems the LED is likely toast, unfortunately

 

[cicci084]

yes, it resets automatically when placed into different console


sure, if everything done properly


of course


yes, you can proceed

After all my repeated questions and prompt confirmations, I removed the Rp2040 from a (100% working) switch and then installed the same chip in another switch.

Everything went perfectly.

When first started on the new console, the chip flashed for about 5/6 seconds alternately with blue and light blue colors and then turned green for a moment and... once turned off, the console showed the 'No SD Card' screen. I think it was the amount of time it took for the rp2040 to reset (after the 70 attempts it took).

Subsequent starts are instantaneous.

The donor console works perfectly without the chip installed, and the recipient has successfully completed all the various microsd installation and preparation procedures, including the boot, Keys, system backup phases.
No problems, everything perfect.

By the way, since a new awg36 wire arrived in the meantime, I was able to test it.

My impressions are positive, the cable is very flexible and has a good quality, inside there are at least 16 copper filaments and has a very resistant sheath.
The only negative note is that the sheath is not self-stripping, this leads to a loss of cleanliness in the welding points, and more time for the welds themselves.

I am attaching photos of this work, I have also used enamelled wire on the mosfets with a slightly larger section, I am also attaching this.

At the base of the welds I applied small drops of B7000 glue to anchor the cable to the main board making everything more resistant to shocks (this console will go to my little grandchildren).

Sorry if the work is not clean, but I still have to figure out how to best use this cable, and I had to do everything in a short time, due to a backlog of work.

I hope to please by attaching some photos.

 

[zZMaCK1eZz]

hi everybody!
i installed picofly in OLED with two mosfet and when turn on the console i recived blue screen; the rp2040 led flash blue and after flashing white.
Does anyone know what i could have done wrong?
and how do i fix it?

 

[MXRD4K1LL4]

Video Install Guides

modzvilleusa's video self destructed.

 

[Adran_Marit]

modzvilleusa's video self destructed.

I noticed

 

[Voultar]

I have two questions:

1) With PicoFly - If you have an RCM jig, can you use that on any model to get into a recovery mode to "retrain" the chip in software?

2) Is it true that if you install OFW updates via Daybreak in CFW_SYSNAND, you'll most likely never have to retrain the glitcher? Providing of course that you don't do something else to sabotage it?

 

[A-Hacked-Soul]

Hi bro..
Attention please.
In 2th photo, i see a short circuit on the capacitor

Post automatically merged: Apr 22, 2023

Here.

This wire is

Personal opinion, take it as advice.

Furthermore, that wire appears really too thin and above all it seems to be without protection (lacquering) near the welding points.
It is too bare and covered with tin extensively.

From all the other installs these wires should be no issue. I will look into the short.

Post automatically merged: Apr 25, 2023

I have two questions:

1) With PicoFly - If you have an RCM jig, can you use that on any model to get into a recovery mode to "retrain" the chip in software?

2) Is it true that if you install OFW updates via Daybreak in CFW_SYSNAND, you'll most likely never have to retrain the glitcher? Providing of course that you don't do something else to sabotage it?

You should never need the jig with picofly.

 

[Adran_Marit]

I have two questions:

1) With PicoFly - If you have an RCM jig, can you use that on any model to get into a recovery mode to "retrain" the chip in software?

2) Is it true that if you install OFW updates via Daybreak in CFW_SYSNAND, you'll most likely never have to retrain the glitcher? Providing of course that you don't do something else to sabotage it?

1) From what I have seen and heard, yes it does reset the chip, however I cannot confirm personally
2) the updating has somethign to do with boot0 so possibly

 

[Voultar]

From all the other installs these wires should be no issue. I will look into the short.

Post automatically merged: Apr 25, 2023

You should never need the jig with picofly.

I'm asking if you can use the RCM jig to boot into a recovery menu to retrain the glitcher in the event that it needs to be and you don't want to disassemble the system to short the RST pin on the RP2040.

 

[ypeeLs]

After all my repeated questions and prompt confirmations, I removed the Rp2040 from a (100% working) switch and then installed the same chip in another switch.

Everything went perfectly.

When first started on the new console, the chip flashed for about 5/6 seconds alternately with blue and light blue colors and then turned green for a moment and... once turned off, the console showed the 'No SD Card' screen. I think it was the amount of time it took for the rp2040 to reset (after the 70 attempts it took).

Subsequent starts are instantaneous.

The donor console works perfectly without the chip installed, and the recipient has successfully completed all the various microsd installation and preparation procedures, including the boot, Keys, system backup phases.
No problems, everything perfect.

By the way, since a new awg36 wire arrived in the meantime, I was able to test it.

My impressions are positive, the cable is very flexible and has a good quality, inside there are at least 16 copper filaments and has a very resistant sheath.
The only negative note is that the sheath is not self-stripping, this leads to a loss of cleanliness in the welding points, and more time for the welds themselves.

I am attaching photos of this work, I have also used enamelled wire on the mosfets with a slightly larger section, I am also attaching this.

At the base of the welds I applied small drops of B7000 glue to anchor the cable to the main board making everything more resistant to shocks (this console will go to my little grandchildren).

Sorry if the work is not clean, but I still have to figure out how to best use this cable, and I had to do everything in a short time, due to a backlog of work.

I hope to please by attaching some photos.

What AWG did you use for the mosfets?

 

[cicci084]

What AWG did you use for the mosfets?

Hi, for the mosfets I used a cable taken from a winding of a 5v power supply. I don't have a Caliper measuring tool, but comparing with a wire 0.1mm is almost double, so I assume it's about 0.2mm.

 

[chapu978]

well what color does the picofly give u ?
lets see some picture of ur install

It was purple. I check all the cables and It was the same. Later i desoldered the picofly and black screen was the result. I can't post pictures because I'm not at home right now. Thanks for the answer!

 

[ErrADDict]

I attempted to install the Picofly w/hwfly v2 cable on my Switch Lite last night and, although my solder points seemed okay, it won't boot. I get a blue light, white light, then a flashing blue (for a while), and finally red before turning off. What did I do wrong? Is there a way to test my soldering with a multimeter? Is there a Discord for getting help with this?

 

[MegaDeKay]

I'm asking if you can use the RCM jig to boot into a recovery menu to retrain the glitcher in the event that it needs to be and you don't want to disassemble the system to short the RST pin on the RP2040.

My parts are still on the way, but I think I read that the PicoFly toolbox has a function to reset the glitcher training data for this situation.

Edit: the PicoFlyGuide confirms my understanding:

Training Data Reset
As the name might imply, this is to reset the training data of thePicoFly in the event your boot times have gone awry for some reason. This will clear your training data and allow your PicoFly to attempt relearning new glitch timings for your console. Largely this should be unnecessary, but it is here if needed.