Picofly AIO Thread

aparitxi

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Rimex

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I installed a Picofly 2040-Zero on a Switch V2. But in the moment i start the console the Picofly only flashes on yellow lights and the Switch begins normally, appers the Nintengo logo and switch logo.

I checked all the points and try some FW and all give me the same error.
I dont know if the Picofly is correctly flashed (The lights when i flash the picofly is some green trying yellow idk...).

Some one have any idea what is happen?

PD: Sry for my bad english
 

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lightninjay

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I installed a Picofly 2040-Zero on a Switch V2. But in the moment i start the console the Picofly only flashes on yellow lights and the Switch begins normally, appers the Nintengo logo and switch logo.

I checked all the points and try some FW and all give me the same error.
I dont know if the Picofly is correctly flashed (The lights when i flash the picofly is some green trying yellow idk...).

Some one have any idea what is happen?

PD: Sry for my bad english
=*** eMMC init failure
Check all your soldering again.
 

abal1000x

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I tested everthing and the valors are betwen 442-650 on diode mode...
maybe try tomorrow re soldering again -.-
Thx
emmc init failure means after reset the picofly doesn't detect if there are initialization on emmc via cmd line.

You should check the continuity of the CLK line (and whether its connected to the right point).
CLK line is to synchronize the signal. If the signal not synchronized, then the communication with emmc failed.
And check the resistor on CLK too. It should be around 47ohms.

You also need to check the continuity of CMD line (also double check if its connected to the right point)
This is the line that picofly sniff out. If its disconnected, then the picofly wont detect any initialization occured.
Also check the resistor on CMD. If its open circuit then the picofly doesn't receive any signal from the emmc.
 

Superghetto420

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does anyone have any recommendations on what wire to use? I see a lot of people use different wire. If so can you name a wire on amazon please thanks
 

abal1000x

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does anyone have any recommendations on what wire to use? I see a lot of people use different wire. If so can you name a wire on amazon please thanks
Different people different taste, everyone has their own preferential and reason.

For me i use enameled wire 0.1mm for CLK/DAT0/CMD, RST, SDA/SCL, and CPU (gate) if its outside cpu shield.
Basically i use this almost on any hack activity.
The reason is, because its small enough that it would not ripped the trace/pad on the pcb, when accident happened.
Something like this:
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/32836447501.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.51ab3d7aCGLFwT&algo_pvid=480d6f5d-ed42-4b13-8e34-4c2586466582&algo_exp_id=480d6f5d-ed42-4b13-8e34-4c2586466582-0&pdp_npi=3@dis!IDR!13643.0!13661.0!!!!!@212244c416883534013871959d073c!65160703468!sea!ID!3430123615&curPageLogUid=LV4TE7nIIQxS

Use insulated wire for 3.3V, GND, and CPU (gate) if its goes inside cpu shield.
The problem of enameled wire is the insulation layer is easily peeled off by some sharp edge.
That is why using insulated wire, which is the insulation part are more thicker than enameled wire.
The problem with insulated wire is usually have a thicker wire, which prone to broke the trace/pad of the pcb.
Recommend using small insulated like 34awg.
Something like this:
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005005321791473.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.19.48867dadPp6cHk&algo_pvid=82590e02-532c-4e64-9261-bd057b3bbfc6&aem_p4p_detail=202307022004592783360945862980014212114&algo_exp_id=82590e02-532c-4e64-9261-bd057b3bbfc6-9&pdp_npi=3@dis!IDR!19775.0!14563.0!!!!!@211bf4c516883534992592952d0767!12000032621622477!sea!ID!3430123615&curPageLogUid=7hrI8ahw8SxK&search_p4p_id=202307022004592783360945862980014212114_3

I have tried the 34awg to replace the enameled wire, but still too big.
Waiting for 36awg, 38awg and 40awg to comes.
 

Superghetto420

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I really appreciate the reply very informative. Thank You!
Post automatically merged:

Also I was reading on the switch lite and a post had two of them listed differently SK Hynix and Samsung is this of any importance and if so how would I go about finding out which one mine is?
 

Rimex

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emmc init failure means after reset the picofly doesn't detect if there are initialization on emmc via cmd line.

You should check the continuity of the CLK line (and whether its connected to the right point).
CLK line is to synchronize the signal. If the signal not synchronized, then the communication with emmc failed.
And check the resistor on CLK too. It should be around 47ohms.

You also need to check the continuity of CMD line (also double check if its connected to the right point)
This is the line that picofly sniff out. If its disconnected, then the picofly wont detect any initialization occured.
Also check the resistor on CMD. If its open circuit then the picofly doesn't receive any signal from the emmc.
Thx for the information. I check tomorrow and reply what happend.
 

jkyoho

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I really appreciate the reply very informative. Thank You!
Post automatically merged:

Also I was reading on the switch lite and a post had two of them listed differently SK Hynix and Samsung is this of any importance and if so how would I go about finding out which one mine is?
remove the emmc top cover on and take a picture upload here, if you can't tell what print on the emmc means
 

twins333

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If i copy fw_2.67.uf2 to my pico rp2040 zero, i get red led. however if i copy fw_2.73.uf2 i get no led light. how come?
There's a firmware you can write on the rp2040 to blank the memory and rewrite a new firmware. also I think you need to keep pressing the other button for it to accept the new firmware. Can't remember out of the top of my head. Sorry for being vague.
I found the link to reset the rp2040 firmware: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-kb2040/factory-reset . All info is in there.

Unrelated to the above poster, @lightninjay maybe add this info to the guide, along with the updated values for the resistors and the alternative location for the mosfet (on the back of the board) ? Thanks dude.
 
Last edited by twins333,

tootallnate

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Hey all. Hoping I can get some help here.

First time Switch modchip installation here, but I managed to install the Hwfly RP2040 modchip onto my OLED this weekend. I was very excited to see the "No SD Card" screen and thought things were going to be fine from here on out. Hekate boots up fine.

However, any attempts at interacting with the emmc are failing, and if I attempt to Reboot -> OFW, I get the purple screen.

I've been trying to search the forums here and, if I'm understanding correctly, it seems like the most likely cause is a bad point A / CMD connection (or blown resistor).

My questions are:
  • What steps can I do to try to diagnose and/or fix this installation?
  • How can I tell if the resistor is indeed broken? (I think if I try to remove the modchip (remove 3.3v connection?) and it can't boot to OFW normally then yes, it is broken?)
  • Is there any way to create a custom firmware without the emmc working? From what I understand, the emmc is where the OFW lives, and I would be fine with only having an emunand working if that were a possibility
  • Last resort: are there any installers here would be willing to accept my Switch and repair / complete the modchip install? DM me if you are interested.
Cheers, and thanks in advance.
 

twins333

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First try to create a emmc backup from hekate. You can use that to rebuild to a new emmc, if your current one has any issues. Also you can check the resistors with diode mode on the multimeter. Check your solder/connections. Otherwise wait for someone with more experience to answer.
 

QuiTim

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Hey all. Hoping I can get some help here.

First time Switch modchip installation here, but I managed to install the Hwfly RP2040 modchip onto my OLED this weekend. I was very excited to see the "No SD Card" screen and thought things were going to be fine from here on out. Hekate boots up fine.

However, any attempts at interacting with the emmc are failing, and if I attempt to Reboot -> OFW, I get the purple screen.

I've been trying to search the forums here and, if I'm understanding correctly, it seems like the most likely cause is a bad point A / CMD connection (or blown resistor).

My questions are:
  • What steps can I do to try to diagnose and/or fix this installation?
  • How can I tell if the resistor is indeed broken? (I think if I try to remove the modchip (remove 3.3v connection?) and it can't boot to OFW normally then yes, it is broken?)
  • Is there any way to create a custom firmware without the emmc working? From what I understand, the emmc is where the OFW lives, and I would be fine with only having an emunand working if that were a possibility
  • Last resort: are there any installers here would be willing to accept my Switch and repair / complete the modchip install? DM me if you are interested.
Cheers, and thanks in advance.
What mod chip are you using? Is it picofly or one of those clones from aliexpress?

To answer your questions:
  • What steps can I do to try to diagnose and/or fix this installation?
    • Take clear pictures of all soldering areas so we can see whats gonig on.
  • How can I tell if the resistor is indeed broken? (I think if I try to remove the modchip (remove 3.3v connection?) and it can't boot to OFW normally then yes, it is broken?)
    • You can test the resistor with multimeter and see what value you get
  • Is there any way to create a custom firmware without the emmc working? From what I understand, the emmc is where the OFW lives, and I would be fine with only having an emunand working if that were a possibility
    • As far as I know you cannot do this because the emummc is created from the original data on emmc otherwise we would not be bothering with this at all and we could just copy ready emummc image to sd and be done with it.
  • Last resort: are there any installers here would be willing to accept my Switch and repair / complete the modchip install? DM me if you are interested.
    • There are alot of users/modders from US here so most likely someone will contact you. If you want to take that route you should also post this request in the other Picofly thread maybe more people will see it.
 

tootallnate

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What mod chip are you using? Is it picofly or one of those clones from aliexpress?

To answer your questions:
  • What steps can I do to try to diagnose and/or fix this installation?
    • Take clear pictures of all soldering areas so we can see whats gonig on.
  • How can I tell if the resistor is indeed broken? (I think if I try to remove the modchip (remove 3.3v connection?) and it can't boot to OFW normally then yes, it is broken?)
    • You can test the resistor with multimeter and see what value you get
  • Is there any way to create a custom firmware without the emmc working? From what I understand, the emmc is where the OFW lives, and I would be fine with only having an emunand working if that were a possibility
    • As far as I know you cannot do this because the emummc is created from the original data on emmc otherwise we would not be bothering with this at all and we could just copy ready emummc image to sd and be done with it.
  • Last resort: are there any installers here would be willing to accept my Switch and repair / complete the modchip install? DM me if you are interested.
    • There are alot of users/modders from US here so most likely someone will contact you. If you want to take that route you should also post this request in the other Picofly thread maybe more people will see it.

I will open up the unit tomorrow to take photos (and probably verify / attempt another CMD connection), but to answer your question about which modchip, the attached image is what I received from Aliexpress. I used the larger dat0 adapter and the OLED ribbon cable.

Possibly off-topic, but I did not update the modchip so I'm not sure what firmware was installed on it from factory. When I run `picofly_toolbox` and click Firmware -> Info, it simply prints "Reading firmware info..." and then "Press any key" without any additional firmware information. I also attempted to update with the `update.bin` from v2.7.3 and it said it updated successfully, but I'm not really sure since it still doesn't print firmware information. I don't think this is related to the main emmc issue, but curious if anyone had insight into that part as well.
 

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snaker

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I will open up the unit tomorrow to take photos (and probably verify / attempt another CMD connection), but to answer your question about which modchip, the attached image is what I received from Aliexpress. I used the larger dat0 adapter and the OLED ribbon cable.

Possibly off-topic, but I did not update the modchip so I'm not sure what firmware was installed on it from factory. When I run `picofly_toolbox` and click Firmware -> Info, it simply prints "Reading firmware info..." and then "Press any key" without any additional firmware information. I also attempted to update with the `update.bin` from v2.7.3 and it said it updated successfully, but I'm not really sure since it still doesn't print firmware information. I don't think this is related to the main emmc issue, but curious if anyone had insight into that part as well.
Did you used the included dat0 adapter of this kit?? If yes this is your problem. Remove it immediately!! And just hope you didnt corrupt the emmc chip or else you must rebuild.
 

WalangAlam

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There's a firmware you can write on the rp2040 to blank the memory and rewrite a new firmware. also I think you need to keep pressing the other button for it to accept the new firmware. Can't remember out of the top of my head. Sorry for being vague.
I found the link to reset the rp2040 firmware: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-kb2040/factory-reset . All info is in there.

Unrelated to the above poster, @lightninjay maybe add this info to the guide, along with the updated values for the resistors and the alternative location for the mosfet (on the back of the board) ? Thanks dude.
i copy the flash_nuke.uf2 then the copy the fw but did not work...
 

lightninjay

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There's a firmware you can write on the rp2040 to blank the memory and rewrite a new firmware. also I think you need to keep pressing the other button for it to accept the new firmware. Can't remember out of the top of my head. Sorry for being vague.
I found the link to reset the rp2040 firmware: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-kb2040/factory-reset . All info is in there.

Unrelated to the above poster, @lightninjay maybe add this info to the guide, along with the updated values for the resistors and the alternative location for the mosfet (on the back of the board) ? Thanks dude.
I'll just leave this quote here, since it's from the other thread
Also, that doesn't mean that I will not add @abal1000x's discovery to the guide, quite the contrary. I plan to add his MOSFET placement and the home button LED mod to the guide in the next revision. I just like to wait several days to see if any issues are going to arise. Let people try the mods and sus out any potential issues (like the joycon reset issues on the home button joycon mod) before posting it to the guide, so I can cover all potential bases of issue an installer might have.
Please do not prompt me for when I should update the guide. The past has proven that I do not take very kindly to people poking me for more free work.
 
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