After isntall picofly in a switch with problematic emmc i made it work but got no screen and just sounds of the UI...any tips on what look for? Lcd conector? Ripped trail? Any tips on where look for it? The touch appears to work
Picofly AIO Thread
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Yes...
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I made this readings and this red marked point is shorted to the ground...any tip?
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Last edited by Flaviocarvalho,
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Already did...the short goes all over the trail..
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I'm Guessing it could be tge max77 ic
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Im trying to decide if i remove the lcd connector or the max7762 ic to see if the short is gone
Last edited by Flaviocarvalho,
Today checked all the connections and the continuty are fine. The resistors mark 46.7Ohms. idk... i try change the RST point for the one on the emmc but the pictures i found have really poor quality...
I found a picture says have a other point RST on the emmc but on the side B but i dont know if this is true...
And my emmc dont have a resistor marked on the pictures. This is the correct point?
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Now i changed the RST point and now appers another error on the RP2040...
Last edited by Rimex,
The ** means RST disconnected, is the first voltage to be checked.
Your previous error (emmc init) already passed this check.
And now you create new problem with the RST line.
Your picture is correct about the RST point. But your soldering is not.
From the video i conclude that the firmware randomly resetting, which shouldn't.
Maybe the wire shorting, the soldering joint shorting, or lot of flux not cleaned, interferes with the RST.
What I want to know, is why they have it plugged into USB at the same time they're trying to glitch.
I think i misunderstand your problem.
You said 'got no screen' does it mean backlight on but no image shown, or backlight off.
I assume backlight is off. If it is then you need to check the backlight connector on the Left PCB.
Check the continuity from the 4pin connector to the (29pin?) connector in the left then goes to the right via flex.
The cable are only connected to RP2040 the other side is disconnected... Do you think it may be causing problems?
And one more thing, now the Switch dont appers nothing on my screen, the Nintendo logo dont appers :s
OMG, you're correct. Why he/she even plugged the usb cable.
That will be another problem. USB is external power, worst case scenario, that could destroy the switch.
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Why you plugged the USB. It is supposed to work using the 3.3v+GND from the switch.
nvm, its disconnected right.
I think backlight is on...the picture is off...because one lcd connector pin is shorted. The backlight i think is funcional because a light appears behind the board when i turn on the console
You need to inspect INSIDE the connector. The pin might got bend by the flex out of their rail, and the pin short circuiting the neighbohour pin.
I know its very difficult one. I once experience it on FPC/PPC connector. Buy the smallest needle exist on the market, to take that pin out from the connector.
The FPC have 2 pin top and bottom. The top pin is from the lock, and the bottom is fixed. The bottom pin might bended by the flex and out of its rail, pushed inside. Since there is no space inside, than the pin will goes horizontal and connecting with the neighbohour pin. I see from your picture that the neighbour pin is the GND pin.
Last edited by abal1000x,
I mean using the needle after i inspect it using the microscope. The pin is pushed horizontally inside, and i need to take it out. Since the height so small something in the range of 0.2mm, i need a solid small needle, to force the problematic pin out from the connector.
You need to make sure visually on the problematic pin.
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What point you use for the 3.3v? and the GND?
my picoflied v2 with flex cable sometimes boot to no sd card but sometimes it boots to ofw without glitching or blue to green light...how to fix this?
Last edited by WalangAlam,
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wrong cap for 3.3v. Use the pin6 cap.
pin5 cap will shot out 5v in some rare case.
pin5 cap will shot out 5v in some rare case.
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