Picofly AIO Thread

[Flaviocarvalho]

I mean using the needle after i inspect it using the microscope. The pin is pushed horizontally inside, and i need to take it out. Since the height so small something in the range of 0.2mm, i need a solid small needle, to force the problematic pin out from the connector.

I did what you said...put a needle and the short is gone...now i get OL reading...and it should be 306...i think thats the connector right?

You need to make sure visually on the problematic pin.

Post automatically merged: Jul 4, 2023

What point you use for the 3.3v? and the GND?a

I mean using the needle after i inspect it using the microscope. The pin is pushed horizontally inside, and i need to take it out. Since the height so small something in the range of 0.2mm, i need a solid small needle, to force the problematic pin out from the connector.

You need to make sure visually on the problematic pin.

Post automatically merged: Jul 4, 2023

What point you use for the 3.3v? and the GND?

 

[lightninjay]

wrong cap for 3.3v. Use the pin6 cap.
pin5 cap will shot out 5v in some rare case.

As @jkyoho pointed out, you missed the correct point by *that* much. The correct point is the top of the cap below the one you soldered to for 3v

 

[jkyoho]

I did what you said...put a needle and the short is gone...now i get OL reading...and it should be 306...i think thats the connector right?

If you still have diode reading on the path of that pin but not on the connector, then you just need a new connector

 

[naldo29]

okay so instead of a single white light, i got a single yellow light and a black screen. What does this mean?

 

[abal1000x]

okay so instead of a single white light, i got a single yellow light and a black screen. What does this mean?

Seems the glitch working, check your lcd connector.

 

[Flaviocarvalho]

If you still have diode reading on the path of that pin but not on the connector, then you just need a new connector

I havr no readind in the path....the path goes directly from cpu to thw connector

 

[naldo29]

Seems the glitch working, check your lcd connector.

its yellow though? isnt it supposed to be white? also the lcd connector is perfectly placed, even reseated it to make sure. What else do you think it could be?

 

[abal1000x]

its yellow though? isnt it supposed to be white? also the lcd connector is perfectly placed, even reseated it to make sure. What else do you think it could be?

Wrong 3.3v and/or gnd point, so when the glitch happened, the rp2040 failed, watchdog kicked in, and the microcontroller halt.

Or wrong RST point, or problematic on something. After the glitch, picofly will check, if its failed, rp2040 will reset the nvidia from RST line.

 

[Flaviocarvalho]

Im getting OL in this point even after remove the lcd connector...it should be 306 on diode mode...any tip on where should i look now?

 

[naldo29]

Wrong 3.3v and/or gnd point, so when the glitch happened, the rp2040 failed, watchdog kicked in, and the microcontroller halt.

Or wrong RST point, or problematic on something. After the glitch, picofly will check, if its failed, rp2040 will reset the nvidia from RST line.

just reseated the rst and the ground point, 3v3 looks fine. What else do you think it could be? could the chip just be damaged?

 

[abal1000x]

just reseated the rst and the ground point, 3v3 looks fine. What else do you think it could be? could the chip just be damaged?

Seems all solid and okay.

Yes, if every connection already good, then there is left the rp2040-zero is at fault.

So the one short error code after blue (glitching) is only exist when the glitch succeeded. But its white (white and yellow is kind of subjective). There are no other error code which'll throws one short blink except success. But it could be that its failed, then throwing the usual yellow light, but the rp2040 microcontroller somehow halted. This usually resulted from unstable power line that powered the rp2040 microcontroller. But i see from the picture the solder for 3.3v is solid and correct, the GND also good.

Post automatically merged: Jul 5, 2023

Im getting OL in this point even after remove the lcd connector...it should be 306 on diode mode...any tip on where should i look now?

I've no comment on this.
Could you picture/photo the middle / inside of the connector?

 

[jkyoho]

just reseated the rst and the ground point, 3v3 looks fine. What else do you think it could be? could the chip just be damaged?

Where did you solder the CMD point? It doesn't seems right to me from your chunk of solder mask

 

[Flaviocarvalho]

Seems all solid and okay.

Yes, if every connection already good, then there is left the rp2040-zero is at fault.

So the one short error code after blue (glitching) is only exist when the glitch succeeded. But its white (white and yellow is kind of subjective). There are no other error code which'll throws one short blink except success. But it could be that its failed, then throwing the usual yellow light, but the rp2040 microcontroller somehow halted. This usually resulted from unstable power line that powered the rp2040 microcontroller. But i see from the picture the solder for 3.3v is solid and correct, the GND also good.

Post automatically merged: Jul 5, 2023

I've no comment on this.
Could you picture/photo the middle / inside of the connector?

I removed it

 

[abal1000x]

I removed it

Do you mean replace it with new connector?

 

[naldo29]

Where did you solder the CMD point? It doesn't seems right to me from your chunk of solder mask

Yeah its doing a bit of a twitst cuz i was a dumbass and put it the wrong way but its on the right side, i placed it on the OPPOSITE side from where the arrow is pointing, the bottom one, the one nearest to the plate covering the ram.

 

[Rimex]

Thx finally works. i change the 3.3v and Gnd and that fix all the problems.

 

[Flaviocarvalho]

Do you mean replace it with new connector?

Yes...when removed the shor was gone but i cant get reading from it.. (OL whe it should be 306 in diode mode)

 

[naldo29]

It says that rst isnt there but i checked, everything looks good and even the multimeter says from one pin to another beeps, so it IS CONNECTED, so im confused?

Post automatically merged: Jul 5, 2023

if i fucked up the dat 0, how would i know? Like what would i be looking a for a blue screen? is a black screen possible if you fucked up the dat 0? I honestly dont know anymore lol, this switch is fucked, after i tried to reseat the rst like 5 times, i gave up and grabbed another pico and set it up and then got a new issue, that its not recognising clk, after checking that clk was also fine, i grabbed a 3rd one and now it gave me No eMMC CMD1 request sign (fuck) so i removed EVERYTHING to check if it still works and turned it on and "nothing" keep in mind that everytime i was trouble shooting it never actually turned on, so something got fucked up from the start. Id just like to know that if it was the dat0 thats causing my switch to be dead. honestly after like 20-30 installs, i cant believe this is the first one i actually bricked lol.

Post automatically merged: Jul 6, 2023

problems that i did,
1. maybe i somehow fucked up and bridged the emmumc with the dat 0 adapter.
2. with my clipers while trying to cut space for the clk, i scraped a wire that went from ram to the apu, but it wasnt enough to where the copper got broken, i anyways tinned up the copper so it can have a stronger connection.
3. 2 of the capacitors got loose and i had to put them back.

Anywho im just trying to give as much info as possible to see if there is ANYTHING i can do to see how i can revive my switch. Thanks

Post automatically merged: Jul 6, 2023

UPDATE: FIXED IT, BUT THERES ONE ISSUE, the nintnedo logo boots up twice, it shows up once, turns off then turns on again and then it shows the switch logo, what could it be?

 

[soratheultima]

Thank you @Dee87 for mentioning using a Lower Gauge Wire on the MOSFETS.
Switching from 0.1mm Magnet Wire to 30 AWG Insulated Wiring fixed it for me and i get the no sd screen on my OLED .

 

[WalangAlam]

is it normal that picofly sometimes boot to ofw and not to atmosphere? which part of the installation controls the booting of ofw and cfw? i am trying to troubleshoot my picofly installation that boot to ofw and cfw interchangeably...