Picofly AIO Thread

Dee87

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Broo... you NEED 2 MOSFETS on apu on lite and V2. This information is in the guide. That is why you re having problems.
Not all really need 2 some also work with 1 but on most of them u likely have issues like slow glitching.
With v1 u def can get away with one on apu.
Backside is another story
 

zorusgb

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Not all really need 2 some also work with 1 but on most of them u likely have issues like slow glitching.
With v1 u def can get away with one on apu.
Backside is another story
I guess I got lucky with just the one and perhaps the SDA and SCL connections were helping too. For a while at least. Unfortunately, no one seems to know where are those on the XIAO.
I prefer not to have to touch the MB and the APU if it can be avoided, those ribbon cable connectors are one snap away from biting the dust.
Do you know what the reading would be between the gate and ground let's say on a blown MOSFET (or a good one for that matter).
I wonder if adding a second MOSFET to the back to supplement the APU one will result in different CPU wire lengths and wether this will impact the signal timings.
Have you tried two MOSFET's on the back?
 

rehius

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jkyoho

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Thanks again! Now I wonder if I had those incorrectly connected on the original RP2040, though there should be no ambiguity with those I think:

View attachment 398666
I do believe rp2040-zero SDA SCL been confirmed working already on those pins.
 

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ammaralidj

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I have a modded (with Picofly) switch lite. Sometimes after blue lights it won't read sd card and shows SD card init failed but some times working perfect. What may be the issue?
 
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LuigiGad

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I have a modded (with Picofly) switch lite. Sometimes after blue lights it won't read sd card and shows SD card init failed but some times working perfect. What may be the issue?
It also happened to me on a couple of Lite that randomly returns SD reading error at startup. It seems to me to be a bug. anyway we await further opinions
 

Crung

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Theoretically what would happen if you were to take out the SD card while in CFW? Im not after the obvious answear that CFW is on sd so it would stop.
I mean what would be the simptoms of it,how the console would behave. Did anybody do this before and can tell me?
 
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Dee87

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Theoretically what would happen if you were to take out the SD card while in CFW? Im not after the obvious answear that CFW is on sd so it would stop.
I mean what would be the simptoms of it,how the console would behave. Did anybody do this before and can tell me?
Why dont u just test it ? probally gonna freeze
 

Dariush

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This is no secret since the schematics are all over the web. I'd suggest you go with the back point if you're into this since that one has clear area.
So, finally, we've got the alternative DAT0 point no need to dig into the motherboard?
Why doesn't this important discovery get enough attention already?
 

ammaralidj

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Did you try a different sdcard? First thing i would check
I will try and report back today.
Theoretically what would happen if you were to take out the SD card while in CFW? Im not after the obvious answear that CFW is on sd so it would stop.
I mean what would be the simptoms of it,how the console would behave. Did anybody do this before and can tell me?
No that didn't happened. Its like that since day 1. I thought its because of a bad installation but the person who mod this for me told me that according to the lights, the modchip is working fine.
 

Crung

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I will try and report back today.

No that didn't happened. Its like that since day 1. I thought its because of a bad installation but the person who mod this for me told me that according to the lights, the modchip is working fine.
my question was unrelated to your problem,sorry
Post automatically merged:

Does this point really work? (dat0 oled)
I ve looked at schematics on the back of the board and these traces are not exposed. on what layer is this? Looks like you still have to dig for them
1697177852554.png
 
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Hassal

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my question was unrelated to your problem,sorry
Post automatically merged:

Does this point really work? (dat0 oled)
I ve looked at schematics on the back of the board and these traces are not exposed. on what layer is this? Looks like you still have to dig for them
View attachment 398952
Its on 3rd layer so yes you need to dig through 2 other copper layers.
Like I said, its no secret some already did it months ago you people are just slow.
 

Crung

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Its on 3rd layer so yes you need to dig through 2 other copper layers.
Like I said, its no secret some already did it months ago you people are just slow.
i only know about emmc point, and the front drill thing:
1697188733878.png

I assume its the same spot? Idk i havent payed attention to schematics since they load really slow in my browser.
I havent touched this subject to do my research bcs i did not care for oled until now, but now i have oled and i wanna do it. I think ill still go with emmc reball method since i feel like its safer. Whereas with this if you re in the wrong spot by 5mm you re kinda ruined.
 

Hassal

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i only know about emmc point, and the front drill thing:
View attachment 398960
I assume its the same spot? Idk i havent payed attention to schematics since they load really slow in my browser.
I havent touched this subject to do my research bcs i did not care for oled until now, but now i have oled and i wanna do it. I think ill still go with emmc reball method since i feel like its safer. Whereas with this if you re in the wrong spot by 5mm you re kinda ruined.
I was going to say a joke about N-Ninjas suppressing this knowledge from the public but the reason why nobody bothers with this is because you have a high chance of ending up with a brick.
 
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zorusgb

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Not all really need 2 some also work with 1 but on most of them u likely have issues like slow glitching.
With v1 u def can get away with one on apu.
Backside is another story
Confirmed on the Lite. It works with one transistor directly soldered to the capacitor on the back, but it glitches only with the SDA/SCA lines connected, FW 2.75. This is still with the XIAO, haven put the Waveshare board back yet.
 

zorusgb

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Confirmed on the Lite. It works with one transistor directly soldered to the capacitor on the back, but it glitches only with the SDA/SCA lines connected, FW 2.75. This is still with the XIAO, haven put the Waveshare board back yet.
So here is summary of my experiments so far:
-two transistors, one back and one front, no SDA and SCL: glitch
-two transistors, one back and one front, SDA and SCL: glitch
-one transistor on back, SDA and SCL: glitch
-one transistor on back, SDA and SCL: no glitch
-one transistor on front, no SDA and SCL: no glitch
-one transistor on front, SDA and SCL: no glitch

Those were all with the XIAO board, so assuming it needed a second transistor I installed the Waveshare board back and all I got was blinking blue light for few minutes ending with 3 shot yellow blinks 3 times. I believe this means it ran out of attempts.

Back to the XIAO board, but this time I removed the USB port, shield and buttons in preparation for permanent install and what do you know, now the XIAO board is not glitching either. It behaves just like the Waveshere did. What the hell.

Does the heat from disordering the unnecessary parts messes up those board somehow, they seem to be functional?
 

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