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There's plenty free space after where the grip colors are written in SPI to accomodate the button colors.
That's one great news
There's plenty free space after where the grip colors are written in SPI to accomodate the button colors.
Try the -f command line optionDoes anyone know to use this application on Parallels? My Joycons keep disconnecting right after it connected, and when it did connect the program didn't find the joycon.
Edit: I got the joycon part "working" (I only got the right joycon working.) But now all I'm getting is a connection error no matter what.
Yes you are OK. The most important things are Color and Serial.So I'm about to send my joycon in for repairs, I changed the color on it then used the backup for it, will they detect that it's been tampered with?
Thank you!Try the -f command line option
Yes you are OK. The most important things are Color and Serial.
But you used the full backup restore, so you are completely ok.
Same folder as the app LOLwhere does the SPI dump go to? want to make sure it's safe.
You can try the Playground. It shows you the buttons pressed and other thingscould this be used for trying to find out reasoning for Scrambled outputs? (after a flash dump that is, to pick apart if it shows anything wrong )as my Right con started acting like when i Press A,its registering A B Y, when i press Home it registers Everything on that joycon. etc. , i got a replacement (grey anyway) otw in 2 days thru amazon but restoring this would be nice since you cant easily get yer mits on the Right ( + ) Neon-Red outside buying a system.
It shows up completely black or dark grey?Can't write the pro grip colors correctly. mine just shows up black no matter the color. is this because I have A plain pro controller or does that matter.
Yeah i reseated it a few times. I've given the possibility of hardware connection issue, but typically if the ribbon cable is in square and some of the functions are working it is seated properly (or there is hardware failure outside of a connection issue). Cable doesn't appear cracked/snapped from bending either.
Absolutely possible i goofed it, but I've restored maybe 50 2DS/3DS and am pretty familiar with Nintendo connections. mainboard itself seems fine, so maybe trying to source a replacement rail connector would be the best approach.
Yeah I just pulled apart for maybe the 4th time in the past two days. Looks like there is a hairline crack that's maybe a millimeter wide on the underside. I ordered a replacement rail off ebay.I see. I said this because happened to me. For some reason the cable flexed at the connector side a little bit and lost connection, but charging was working.
And then I placed blue tag on top of the connector to keep the flap tight.
Do you have another right joy-con to test if the Switch-side rail works? Maybe there's a broken pin.
Yeah but I never had the time to update the info.I am curious about the Right Joy-Con IR processing you have here. I do not have labo or 1-2 switch so I'm not sure how fast/what quality the console can typically capture at, but for those higher resolution streams is it possible to achieve a quicker poll? I tried manipulating settings like exposure, gain, de-noise, IR filter, etc. and the only thing that seemed to have a drastic effect on the frame rate was the resolution... Which is, naturally, the last thing I want to sacrifice for my purposes (interested in building a barcode capture tool for it). Not sure about the sensor register/value boxes. I'd hope for min. 4 FPS.
How much of the IR camera I/O format is really understood, at this point? I did check out the "Issue" thread on IR capture at the Reverse Engineering GitHub, however it seems you've made leaps and bounds of progress since your last message there.