Switch OLED issues with modchip, blue screen without

[RubyRoid]

I'm having issues with my freshly modded Switch OLED.

It was working and booting fine as soon as I installed the modchip but it was late so I shut it down and put it on charger for the night. The next day I went to install a larger SD card and got an error message. I've tried the old card but that didn't help. I've tried several other known good cards with no success. I've opened an issue in the hekate github repo and got a response that it's either fake or corrupted SD card or the SD connector itself (Update: contacted CTCaer directly and we came to conclusion that the issue is with one of the RAM modules). I don't think it's either one of those since I've been using tested good cards and opened the Switch and carefully inspected the SD connector and found no issues, all the pins look fine, nothing is bent or damaged.

Since I couldn't make the modchip work I decided to disconnect it. I desoldered and isolated all the wires from the chip and tried to boot the console. Got a blue screen. Tried to boot it holding the VOL+ and VOL- buttons but still getting the blue screen.

I'm not sure if simply desoldering the wires from the chip is enough to properly unmod the Switch but I couldn't find any proper instructions online.

Is there a way to make my Switch work again?

 

[RubyRoid]

Beep? The “beep” happens in diode mode. You shouldn’t be checking for shorts using that. Unless you have a really crappy meter that uses one setting for both. Set it for ohms (resistance) to see if that 0 is an open (open should read OL).

You're right, it shows OL, not zero, my mistake.
Yeah, my multimeter doesn't beep in diode mode, I checked if it beeps in continuity mode.

This is the multimeter I use, I think it's pretty decent:

 

[urherenow]

Click once ccw (to resistance) and check clk to gnd. If you read low, you have a problem. Really high, or OL, and you’re fine, except that it still points to your tegra needing a reflow/reball

EDIT: Just saw some pics you posted on the other page. When you say you removed the wires and such, does that include the dat0 adapter? The bigger ones are better than that one anyway, so at this point, it might be something to consider…

what’s the 404 reading you said you got on clk? You mean 0.403v in diode mode? That would actually be a good reading. If that’s the case, I take that back about removing the adapter.

 

[RubyRoid]

Click once ccw (to resistance) and check clk to gnd. If you read low, you have a problem. Really high, or OL, and you’re fine, except that it still points to your tegra needing a reflow/reball

I'm getting 517k Ohms. Seems pretty high. Do you still think reflow/reball is required?

When you say you removed the wires and such, does that include the dat0 adapter?

Yes, I removed the DAT0 adapter as well.

You mean 0.403v in diode mode?

Yes, that's correct.

 

[urherenow]

Yes, it seems you checked everything else. Most every pic you post has some sort of debris on the board, so I would suggest doing an ultrasonic cleaning before you reflow, and again afterward…

 

[Rodel]

reflow is the solution.if you reflow and still BSOD..it needs to reball..

 

[Rodel]

You're right, it shows OL, not zero, my mistake.
Yeah, my multimeter doesn't beep in diode mode, I checked if it beeps in continuity mode.

This is the multimeter I use, I think it's pretty decent:
View attachment 325350

so whats the news..is your switch oled still bsod?

 

[RubyRoid]

so whats the news..is your switch oled still bsod?

I haven’t reflowed the APU yet as the hotair station that I have on hand isn’t great and I don’t want to make things worse with it, so I’m looking into getting a better one first.
I will post an update as soon as I get a new hotair station and try to perform a reflow.

 

[Krypter]

Hello. I decided to modify my Oled with exactly the same chip. As a result, I got the same symptoms. Blue screen without chip and memory card error with chip. Emmc I have hynix. Dat0 adapter is the same as yours.
I thought it was the Dat0 adapter. Took it off. Did not help.

 

[impeeza]

Hello. I decided to modify my Oled with exactly the same chip. As a result, I got the same symptoms. Blue screen without chip and memory card error with chip. Emmc I have hynix. Dat0 adapter is the same as yours.
I thought it was the Dat0 adapter. Took it off. Did not help.

Your problem may be no the same, if you are getting the SD Card error your Console is injected with payload, you are missing some files on your SD Card, try to download Hekate from Github and extract the files ON SD CARD ROOT then try again.

 

[Krypter]

Your problem may be no the same, if you are getting the SD Card error your Console is injected with payload, you are missing some files on your SD Card, try to download Hekate from Github and extract the files ON SD CARD ROOT then try again.

No. The problem is not the files on the flash drive. When formatting a memory card in ExtFat, I get the error "hecate exception occurred LR 4000d4d0". And with Fat32, what is in the photo above.

 

[Krypter]

Everything turned out to be much easier. On examination, a broken track to RAM was revealed. After its restoration, the stock started. Campaign when the Screen broke accidentally hooked.

 

[impeeza]

Cool

 

[Rodel]

Hello. I decided to modify my Oled with exactly the same chip. As a result, I got the same symptoms. Blue screen without chip and memory card error with chip. Emmc I have hynix. Dat0 adapter is the same as yours.
I thought it was the Dat0 adapter. Took it off. Did not help.

you can use hats pack.if still error..it seem that your emmc is corrupted.hynix emmc is very cheap..samsung is the best

 

[ngocson0099]

have you fixed this error i am also getting this error

 

[RubyRoid]

have you fixed this error i am also getting this error

No, I couldn't fix it. Instead I've just got another switch oled and working on it right now, wish me luck lol

 

[ngocson0099]

No, I couldn't fix it. Instead I've just got another switch oled and working on it right now, wish me luck lol

thanks my friend as well as you have successfully installed the chip mod but can't bot to hekate and i also removed it and it got a blue screen

 

[RubyRoid]

So in the end I got another Switch OLED and modded it with no problem at all. I used a recommended DAT0 adapter this time and took 3.3V from it.

Tried to reflow the APU on the broken Switch. This was the second time in my life I tried to do a chip reflow which went surprisingly well. It took a lot of time, I was heating it at 440C for around 15 minutes and when that didn't work I upped the temperature to 460C and after five more minutes I was able to wiggle the chip a little. Lost a Joy-Con connector but got no other issues upon inspection.

Unfortunately, that didn't change anything and I'm still getting a blue screen on the console.

I don't think I wish to continue to mess with it. This was an amazing journey which gave me a lot of experience and I thank everybody who was here to help me with this console.

I'm going to assemble it back with a couple of screws and put away.

If there is anybody in EU willing to take a look at it to try to fix it, please DM me.

 

[doom95]

I'd be willing to take a look, have spare ram chips too

 

[FreeLander]

I think that when i put the qsb it was not exactly on the dat0 point but in between dat0 ball and the next ball, making a short circuit, wierdly it turned on first time but never did after that.... you should be able to unbrick it, chaging the EMMC and making a new nand using donor nand BUT this is only if you took your prod.key, you should be able to put a new EMMC and load hekate in any case to get the prod.keys

For the next ones if you are able to reball that's the best, if you use a qsb, the orange oled qsb is the best (for me)
But the most important is when you install the qsb, check the diode value from qsb to ground and it must be in between 400 and 460 or little more (never got above 440~450) and also check diode value from qsb to 3.3v (should be in between 650 and 70)

Would you further explain the 3v3 diode mode part? Where should I put the other probe?

 

[cch504]

This sounds a lot like what happened to me except mine never worked. Wrote a post about it i'm new so i can't post links yet but here is the path: /threads/switch-oled-blue-screen-after-hwfly-installation-attempt.634851/