Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[FreeLander]

Backboard MOSFET update:
I tried it on a third OLED, and I got the glitch limit error. A couple of times it glitches after 2 minutes, but mostly it won't. I added another MOSFET, 100ohs set but still the same.

Then I noticed that my CLK wire was longer than usual so I cut it short, now I'm usually getting a glitch within 20-40 sec.
Final set on this OLED:
47 all.
two mosfets.

I tried the method on three OLEDs thus far. I invite others to try it out.

ِEDIT:
What I did differently right about the time this method came out was using another solder wire.
The one I used and had no problems with was a mechanic 63% tin 37% sn.
Then I started using a Malaysian brand 60/40

 

[abal1000x]

More and more the "two fets" and the "more solder" fixes are starting to make me think it's simply a resistance issue when the glitch is failing. Better soldering, different solder (low-temp leaded vs higher temp unleaded), different wire thicknesses and materials (copper/silver/aluminum), all these things have an effect when we're talking about the speeds and timings these glitches are needing to occur at.

Agrees 100%.
In summary its all about the resistance.
Usually occured because bad soldering.

Post automatically merged: Jul 11, 2023

Backboard MOSFET update:
I tried it on a third OLED, and I got the glitch limit error. A couple of times it glitches after 2 minutes, but mostly it won't. I added another MOSFET, 100ohs set but still the same.

Then I noticed that my CLK wire was longer than usual so I cut it short, now I'm usually getting a glitch within 20-40 sec.
Final set on this OLED:
47 all.
two mosfets.

I tried the method on three OLEDs thus far. I invite others to try it out.

ِEDIT:
What I did differently right about the time this method came out was using another solder wire.
The one I used and had no problems with was a mechanic 63% tin 37% sn.
Then I started using a Malaysian brand 60/40

Mechanic, mijing, is a good brand from chinese that usually have a consistent of good quality.
The cons is the price. Its like the apple of chinese electronic tools.

We couldn't make sure what is the material made of. Some seller in aliexpress saying copper but the color is white, which is definitely not a copper. Or saying its 34awg, when i bought, and look into the microscope, it is not a 34awg size.

If you have a coil, a component, or something from the automotive, than i am sure its superior compared to the market for the same component. Usually the market price doesn't depicted the technical value. The manufacture usually sold the best component first to the military, then to space industry, then to the automotive, and the rest goes to public. In my experience when you made for example 10k of one crystal specification, then only 100 of it have a superior datasheet, 5k have a better datasheet, 3k have normal datasheet, and the rest has the lowest one. Those hundreds superior usually goes to automotive.

 

[Takezo-San]

Quick update the lcd connector was fitted form a donor board and still wasn't booting. So probably not the issue but enjoyed the challenge of transplanting a plastic connector. no shorts and all good connections. Then I went for the M92. Heard it can cause upsets when everything else seems fine. Done that and still nothing. Looked below the apu and compared the caps around the max77812 from my donor and they were way off. Could be caps but I'll start with the chip which needs to be reballed. Don't have the stencil so have to wait a couple days now. BTW would any amp tester work or are their any no go ones to buy? think its time to get one, especially after reballing emmcs in future. would save time to see if it was successful or not oppose to reassembling the motherboard and turning it on to check for a boot or not.

 

[jkyoho]

Quick update the lcd connector was fitted form a donor board and still wasn't booting. So probably not the issue but enjoyed the challenge of transplanting a plastic connector. no shorts and all good connections. Then I went for the M92. Heard it can cause upsets when everything else seems fine. Done that and still nothing. Looked below the apu and compared the caps around the max77812 from my donor and they were way off. Could be caps but I'll start with the chip which needs to be reballed. Don't have the stencil so have to wait a couple days now. BTW would any amp tester work or are their any no go ones to buy? think its time to get one, especially after reballing emmcs in future. would save time to see if it was successful or not oppose to reassembling the motherboard and turning it on to check for a boot or not.

Amy meter won't tell you if it's turning on not but only charge or not. Search around you will see tons of "my switch has 0.4x Amp but no power" threads

 

[roxzii]

Did you try using docking station to see if you get anything on screen (with pico removed)?

Nothing with pico off. Anyways, I'm expecting a blue screen, would that show up on the tv? I have a feeling it would only show the blue screen in the switch display, even if docked.

Post automatically merged: Jul 11, 2023

If the pico has glitches successfully then that's a good sign the switch is good however the next step is to check and fix that lcd connector.

I will be working on a switch lite myself that has a blue screen and then no screen. Found a burnt pin on the lcd connector. Will attempt fix and let you know if blue screen is gone or if that lcd connector removes no picture.

I will say, the real test is to get rid of blue or black screen. Then see the no sd pico logo and then....check with sd card if it boots into hekate. Ways to go but so far, good work

The problem is that I think the ribbon cable is the problem, not the connector, it seems to have a pretty big gash in a really bad place across more than half the pins...

Post automatically merged: Jul 11, 2023

Most of the time if you getting black screens then the connector is damaged. Check the connector on the board the ribbon is not that clear so cant see - maybe its glitching but we cant see cos the screen error

Exactly. I think that's what happened before, I got to the no sd card screen and the either black screen when hekate was the payload or blue screen with OFW. I have checked the connector (no microscope) but everything seems fine, I really think it's the ribbon, that scratch is in a bad place for my huge multimeter probes, but I don't think I'm getting continuity across that scratch.

 

[aguskaryana]

I want to ask yesterday I installed chio picofly on Nintendo lite but the light only turns on blue I've been waiting a long time but it still only lights blue doesn't want green

 

[abal1000x]

I want to ask yesterday I installed chio picofly on Nintendo lite but the light only turns on blue I've been waiting a long time but it still only lights blue doesn't want green

Give a photo of your work on Dat0 point, the mosfet and the picofly board.

 

[aguskaryana]

Give a photo of your work on Dat0 point, the mosfet and the picofly board.

 

[abal1000x]

@aguskaryana
Try to kapton tape

If necessary resolder the Dat0 point, to make sure.

Seems you use 0.2mm enameled wire.
If you have 0.1mm enameled wire, it will be easier to handle, and more safer.

Becareful using 0.2mm on that pad. Once you ripped it, the difficulty level will increase like 10 fold.

 

[aguskaryana]

@aguskaryana
Try to kapton tape
View attachment 382738

If necessary resolder the Dat0 point, to make sure.

Seems you use 0.2mm enameled wire.
If you have 0.1mm enameled wire, it will be easier to handle, and more safer.

Becareful using 0.2mm on that pad. Once you ripped it, the difficulty level will increase like 10 fold.

where is the problem here? I've fixed it but it's still the same

 

[abal1000x]

where is the problem here? I've fixed it but it's still the same

The problem is the glitch is unstable.

The glitch (blue light) will keep on blinking until all the possible parameter tried. Then throws timeout error.

The most suspect is your mosfet installation. But since you don't give a photo, i cant confirm your quality work on the mosfet.

The second suspect is the sniffing glitch via cmd line in emmc is unstable, could be from bad CMD/CLK/Dat0 solder quality, wrong point, etc. I confirm from your picture, the cmd, clk, dat0 point already correct. So left with the possible Dat0 short circuit with other pad, in your picture it seems possible to short circuit with the neighbohour datn pad. That is why the kapton tape. Also from the picture seems the solder is cold joint, that is why i suggest to resolder the dat0.

The third suspect is your solder quality on the picofly board, might be short circuit with the neighbohour or cold joint, or anything else. But again you don't give a picture to confirm.

 

[FreeLander]

Away from gaming consoles, pirated games, and all that. What I like the most about modding and soldering in general is that every single bit of detail matters. I used to do a CLK a certain way, I changed how it is placed, combined with a new solder wire, and I instantly got a different glitch result than usual.

This is just another proof for anyone who couldn't get a glitch or got a kind of screen color. Check your work, it always comes back to that.

I once read about some funny guy in this thread who used to grind the APU for a GND point, then complained about a blue screen.

 

[Takezo-San]

The problem is that I think the ribbon cable is the problem, not the connector, it seems to have a pretty big gash in a really bad place across more than half the pins...

So you got to either replace the whole lcd which will require a hot air station.Or jumper the wire but see if you can identify the line or line that has been cut or showing a short. I'm not sure what else to suggest unless someone may have an additional solution. It's a toughy

 

[roxzii]

So you got to either replace the whole lcd which will require a hot air station.Or jumper the wire but see if you can identify the line or line that has been cut or showing a short. I'm not sure what else to suggest unless someone may have an additional solution. It's a toughy

Yeah, even if I went the jumper wire route, the scratch is so close to the connector latch that I'm afraid the jumper wires won't let the cable go into the connector enough to make good contact.

 

[abal1000x]

Yeah, even if I went the jumper wire route, the scratch is so close to the connector latch that I'm afraid the jumper wires won't let the cable go into the connector enough to make good contact.

I am scared on your metal tweezer, holding the flex like that.
If i must use a tweezer, i use ceramic tweezer, feels more safe than metal.

I always use ceramic tweezer for literally anything involved on electronics work. Ceramic and plastics, its the two thing i use. Only use metal if there are no better alternative.

 

[CarlosCruz]

Testing permanent dat0. Kamikaze mod.

 

[hashcheck1]

Testing permanent dat0. Kamikaze mod.

did you tap into another layer of board?

 

[linuxares]

If people going to the kamikaze route. Someone should try to make a mock up and measurement rig, to always get the sweet spot. I'm sadly not good enough with any of this to try to figure it out.

 

[chronoss]

Hi !
Can this mod work on Oled too ? It work on v2 very well and i want to know if it can work on Oled too....

 

[Dee87]

Hi !
Can this mod work on Oled too ? It work on v2 very well and i want to know if it can work on Oled too....

View attachment 382804

yes since v2/lite/and oled have the same Apu
V1 is a bit different