I initially posted this in another thread that was already started, as it seemed to be a very similar issue to what I was having. That thread is linked here: https://gbatemp.net/threads/game-bo...-diode-looking-for-help.644385/#post-10328154
My issue seems a bit different, however.
Ozito has created some great pictures showing what voltages should be, which are linked in the previous thread.
Initially I though the diode may be broken, but he diode seems fine. All other voltages on the left of the board seem fine except for this particular leg on (what I assume) is this transistor (marked by the grey arrow). Figured that component may be bad so transferred the exact component from my working micro over (voltage was reading correctly on it), but still reads very low on the one that isn’t charging. It is reading .02 volts.
They read different depending on whether the battery is connected or not. With the battery connected, the top leg I pointed to previously shows .02v, so essentially nothing. The 1R2 (resistor?) reads 0.2v on each side. The diode reads 3.99v (which is the current battery voltage), but the test point after that, which should be reading 4.5v is 0.02 as well. So maybe it is the diode?
Completely unrelated, but I also messed up my "good" board when plugging in the power adapter last night. It apparently had a decent amount of corrosion on the EM6 pad right next to where the power connector slot goes. I tested continuity on the other board and it seems like each link goes straight across. I've heard of other's just bridging each of those connections on other gameboy models to bypass, any thoughts on that as well? As you can see, the corrosion essentially ate all the pads. I'll need to grind off some to reveal traces to get it connected either way.
I still have the component, but the lid is torn off and full of corrosion on each of the contacts. I might be able to grind some away, but I'm not 100% sure that this component is absolutely necessary.
Anyone know if just adding wire as I've outlined in orange would be ok? As far as I understand, that component is just to "clean" the electrical signal, but isn't 100% necessary.
To add, I also haven't been able to test the voltages on the chip on the right side yet, as my meter leads are too large (waiting on a fine tip set to come in the mail). I assume that's the charge chip? I suppose that could be damaged as well.
My issue seems a bit different, however.
Ozito has created some great pictures showing what voltages should be, which are linked in the previous thread.
Initially I though the diode may be broken, but he diode seems fine. All other voltages on the left of the board seem fine except for this particular leg on (what I assume) is this transistor (marked by the grey arrow). Figured that component may be bad so transferred the exact component from my working micro over (voltage was reading correctly on it), but still reads very low on the one that isn’t charging. It is reading .02 volts.
They read different depending on whether the battery is connected or not. With the battery connected, the top leg I pointed to previously shows .02v, so essentially nothing. The 1R2 (resistor?) reads 0.2v on each side. The diode reads 3.99v (which is the current battery voltage), but the test point after that, which should be reading 4.5v is 0.02 as well. So maybe it is the diode?
Completely unrelated, but I also messed up my "good" board when plugging in the power adapter last night. It apparently had a decent amount of corrosion on the EM6 pad right next to where the power connector slot goes. I tested continuity on the other board and it seems like each link goes straight across. I've heard of other's just bridging each of those connections on other gameboy models to bypass, any thoughts on that as well? As you can see, the corrosion essentially ate all the pads. I'll need to grind off some to reveal traces to get it connected either way.
I still have the component, but the lid is torn off and full of corrosion on each of the contacts. I might be able to grind some away, but I'm not 100% sure that this component is absolutely necessary.
Anyone know if just adding wire as I've outlined in orange would be ok? As far as I understand, that component is just to "clean" the electrical signal, but isn't 100% necessary.
Post automatically merged:
To add, I also haven't been able to test the voltages on the chip on the right side yet, as my meter leads are too large (waiting on a fine tip set to come in the mail). I assume that's the charge chip? I suppose that could be damaged as well.
Last edited by gangan,
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