My best advice is if you've never soldered anything before, find a practice board until you feel confident. Simple as that.
Get a ez-flash IV.
Get a ez-flash IV.
Sounds like a bad connection. Have you opened it up and tested/resoldered?Hi
I'm having an issue with the GBA mod I've recently done.
I put a ags-101 type A screen on a 32pin board and it works perfectly (no backlight switch) except that sometimes the screen light would dim visibly.
Fiddling with the battery area of the case (like gently pushing and moving the batteries around a little bit) fixes the problem and the light goes back to normal, so it feels like some kind of contact issue.
Now, I'm no electronic expert, I just followed a guide to make it and I can't figure out why it does this. I only know it's very finicky (even so much as touching the back case fixes it)
Maybe the screen's folded ribbon cable down there? Though I assume it has something to do with voltage.
What do you guys think?
I haven't opened the console yet. It's annoying, but it's very easy to "fix" and doesn't happen oftenSounds like a bad connection. Have you opened it up and tested/resoldered?
Hi, I have a question, if I have all correct, 32 pin cable ribbon + 32 pin motherboard + white tab screen, can I add a potentiometer to the wire that goes to Da1? (just to graduate the bright to my taste)
And if that is possible, how can I solder it if the potentiometer has 3 legs?
So do the screen compatibility issues not apply to repro LCDs? Am I good to just purchase the above?
Last time I checked, they called "white tab" screen "B-type", so yes, you'll need B-type adapter.So looks like I need a 40-pin B type cable for the screen I linked to above?
Thank you pcm720
I was looking at the Switch version but was trying to keep costs low.
Did you use a white tab type screen with a 40-pin GBA?
Thank you again.
I'm glad I checked here as this page caused confusion by referring to it as A type.
Ok, I'll order the screen and 40-pin B-type cable and if I have problems I'll order the cable you linked to.
While I'm here, do you know of a source for that nice cable which allows brightness change with select+L (mentioned earlier in this thread)?
Hi all,
I bought a kit on aliexpress (w/ 40 pins ribon cable).
Yesterday I installed it, and connected P1 to D1A.
On first power on, the screen was washed out, I really was disappointed.
Then I've read some guys who had the same problem and connected 103 to GND.
So I did it and, wow, perfect picture now !
But (and that's why I' asking someone here ...), I noticed the power consumption was very high.
A brand new set of alcaline batteries lasted 30 minutes. Seriously, only 30 minutes!
I measured the consumption : 350 ma !! that's 3,5 times the normal GBA consumption, which should be around 100 ma.
So a set of 2000 mah batteries would last between 5 and 6 hours, at best. Really disappointing figures.
So, my questions :
- Is my screen faulty ? I know there are dozens of chinese manufacturers out there, and probably of lot of different designs, and
some of them are probably wrong (could be my case)
- Would wesoldering P1 to D1A reduce consumption ?
- Would it be possible to reduce consumption by adding some resistors to the screen leds (if ever leds are used).
- Any other way to have a normal consumption ??
Thanks a lot !
Stéphane
how's the battery life?View attachment 95635 View attachment 95636 View attachment 95637
Hello Everyone!
I'm new on this forum and I have registered just so I could photos of my GBA modification. This is an original GBA 40 pin model which I've bought in 2001 and I've bought this screen:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For...M-Backlit-Brighter-Highlight/32622199888.html
And this cable (40 pin B):
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32P...1-Backlit-Adapter-Screen-Mod/32716977370.html
I haven't soldered the wire that came with the adapter because I lack soldering skills and equipment. However the screen has a perfect balance of contrast and brightness when one is playing inside; the screen is crisp and there is no ghosting or any other problems. Outside is another matter completely, and it is unplayable for me because of the reflections and dimness of the screen whose backlight can't compete with natural light even on a cloudy day .
If I had soldered the adapter wire the screen would have been too bright for my taste when playing inside, but it would have to be at least 3x as bright as in non-soldered state for it to be playable outside. Even then I think it wouldn't be ideal because of the glare.
If my crappy multimeter (really gotta buy something better) is correct, my 40-pin GBA draws up to ~180 mA max on high brightness setting and up to ~150 mA on low brightness setting (in-game/EZFlash IV menu). The lowest current draw is around 110 mA with EZ-Flash IV inserted.
I measured that on 10A since the fuse is blown on 200 mA input, so I'm not sure if these values are accurate.
The screen is from AGS-101 of unknown origin (GBA SP was seller refurbished), with uniform leads and white tab, and no modifications apart from soldering the red wire to DA1 were needed for the adapter to work.
Note that EZ-Flash IV draws more current than original game cart. Almost twice as much if "another famous flashcart" is indeed EZ-Flash IV.
how's the battery life?