Homebrew Question 3D Printed Jig Issue

ShaytheStar

3TEETH fan
OP
Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
105
Trophies
0
Age
23
Location
my bed
XP
399
Country
United States
Hello, the paperclip version jig I recently 3D printed from Maketo isn't working. Perhaps I'm not placing the clip down enough or maybe it's the wrong size. I couldn't find a "0,9 mm" paperclip anywhere on the Internet and settled for one that looked big enough that I had on hand. I've included some pictures.

MnwXWwd.jpg


YJTkX37.jpg


KTcssVZ.jpg


A8taPaB.jpg

(Also, if this type of content isn't allowed here, feel free to remove it, and I apologize since I'm new here...and please point me to the forum rules because I can't find them!)
 
  • Like
Reactions: CatmanFan

ShaytheStar

3TEETH fan
OP
Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
105
Trophies
0
Age
23
Location
my bed
XP
399
Country
United States
Oh, I never thought that was important.... Thanks. Oh, yeah, duh. Now I feel dumb. Don't have much experience with hardware. Thanks, I'll try again.

Edit: It works now!
 
Last edited by ShaytheStar,

Apache Thunder

I have cameras in your head!
Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2007
Messages
4,476
Trophies
3
Age
36
Location
Levelland, Texas
Website
www.mariopc.co.nr
XP
6,922
Country
United States
@ShaytheStar You seemed to have fixed your issue. But here's a photo of mine. I had a similar issue where mine wasn't making contact. I got a jig premade off eBay. But the wire the seller used was too soft/thin. The wire used in Ethernet cords is solid copper (at least as long as you don't get a super cheap ass cord. :P ) and was a perfect fit to the jig. Here's what it should look like:

TheJig.jpg

(the back of the jig isn't visible here. But yes this is a single wire looped around to both pin locations. They obviously need to be like this to "connect" pin 1 to pin 10 else the jig wouldn't work. :P )

The little bumps in the wire at the end are important. If you don't have those bends, it won't make contact and you'll have issues. Using thicker wire may help, but thinner solid copper with the bends will work just as well and won't stress the contacts on your rail as much. ;)
 
Last edited by Apache Thunder,

ShaytheStar

3TEETH fan
OP
Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
105
Trophies
0
Age
23
Location
my bed
XP
399
Country
United States
@ShaytheStar You seemed to have fixed your issue. But here's a photo of mine. I had a similar issue where mine wasn't making contact. I got a jig premade off eBay. But the wire the seller used was too soft/thin. The wire used in Ethernet cords is solid copper (at least as long as you don't get a super cheap ass cord. :P ) and was a perfect fit to the jig. Here's what it should look like:

View attachment 130806
(the back of the jig isn't visible here. But yes this is a single wire looped around to both pin locations. They obviously need to be like this to "connect" pin 1 to pin 10 else the jig wouldn't work. :P )

The little bumps in the wire at the end are important. If you don't have those bends, it won't make contact and you'll have issues. Using thicker wire may help, but thinner solid copper with the bends will work just as well and won't stress the contacts on your rail as much. ;)

I'm using a paperclip actually, not wire, and it seems to be thick enough to not require the bumps as I haven't had any issues so far. Thank you, though!
 

NightlyParadox

Active Member
Newcomer
Joined
May 13, 2017
Messages
42
Trophies
0
Age
34
Location
East Tennessee
XP
171
Country
United States
From my experience the FoF design is much harder to work with, with needing to hack up a micro USB connector for it, I could never get the FoF design to actually work so I went with the Thingyverse print and it's worked perfect.
 

Site & Scene News

Popular threads in this forum

General chit-chat
Help Users
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    @Xdqwerty make people have their own character
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    and be able to fight other players
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    and co op
  • Xdqwerty @ Xdqwerty:
    @salazarcosplay, kind of like mugen or rivals of aether?
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    and also ahve the option to play as a human
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    or set it up that when you get injured past a certain point they have to replace your human parts with cybernetics
  • Xdqwerty @ Xdqwerty:
    i have a placeholder enemy sprite i made
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    or have it that you don't know you are a cyborg, robot, and you find out and have a existential crisis
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    or have it start in the virtual world and you are an ai that gained sentience
  • Xdqwerty @ Xdqwerty:
    btw gonna wash my face in a bit, my eyes feel tired
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    and you convince your owner to help you break out of the virtual world to real world
  • BigOnYa @ BigOnYa:
    Eyes - "yawn"
    +1
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    you bleack in to goverment computer systems to get cyborg schematics so you can get a robot body constructed
  • Xdqwerty @ Xdqwerty:
    btw @BigOnYa the health bar doesnt decrease when i take damage (and yes i put the "at the beggining of the scene change value of greenflatbar: set to Protagonistcopmode.Health::Health())
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    i the protagonist
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    human, robot, cyborg
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    human with cyborg enhancements
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    or like terminatior
  • S @ salazarcosplay:
    with living tissue
  • BigOnYa @ BigOnYa:
    @Xdqwerty there is health behaviour you can add to your character, then to use a health bar is lil more complicated, google n watch a few tutorial video on it, be too hard to explain here.
  • Xdqwerty @ Xdqwerty:
    @BigOnYa, the character has the health behavior
  • BigOnYa @ BigOnYa:
    I know you have to create a health and health max variable. Then there is a calculation you use in code to subtract width size of the health bar. Google few vids.
    BigOnYa @ BigOnYa: