Hacking Battery hold almost no charge (new switch)

[DerProGamer2000]

Hello,
i started to use my 3.0.0 switch again and installed cfw with hekate and atmosphere but noticed that my battery hold only charge for half an hour or so and i wonder why because i almost never used this switch before.
I looked at the battery info in hekate in console info and saw that the design capacity says something with 4xxx mAh but the actual full capacity is 13xx mAh and it says age 28% so 28% wear? which is odd cause it was only used for like mariokart a few hours before i got my 2nd switch then the switch was put in the box turned off for half an year or so.
and another thing i noticed is that hekate says 0% battery even tho the battery is at 3,8v-3,9v which isn't normal because a li-ion battery can be has capacity left untill arround 3,0v
im going to put a picture of the battery menu thingy here.

I had already tried the battery desync fix before but it somehow made it worse and now im stuck with this. should i just unplug the battery for a few seconds and see again or measure with a multimeter if the voltage readout is correct?

 

[Zumoly]

So leaving the Switch off for extended period of time is bad for the battery?
Then what trick is Nintendo doing for new consoles? AFAIK their battery work fine even after being off for two years.

 

[DerProGamer2000]

So leaving the Switch off for extended period of time is bad for the battery?
Then what trick is Nintendo doing for new consoles? AFAIK their battery work fine even after being off for two years.

no it was fine when using it again but when installing cfw it got worse and the desync fix made it even more worse

 

[Zumoly]

no it was fine when using it again but when installing cfw it got worse and the desync fix made it even more worse

Oh I get it now.
Why not try a full cycle charge on it then (let it die at 0% and fully charge it at 100%)?

 

[DerProGamer2000]

Oh I get it now.
Why not try a full cycle charge on it then (let it die at 0% and fully charge it at 100%)?

letting it die on rcm mode where there isn't the cut of thing or on the switch os and charging to?
because on switch os it just discarges to 3,8v and charges to 4,2v and batterys can discharge to about 3v

 

[Zumoly]

letting it die on rcm mode where there isn't the cut of thing or on the switch os and charging to?

I'm gonna suggest the horizon os as you won't run into any issue from there.

 

[subcon959]

I would try disconnecting the battery and doing a full charge cycle (you might need to do several after 6 months of storage). I'm not sure what Age means exactly but mine says 102%.

It's not too expensive to get a new battery if you need to replace it though.

 

[CTCaer]

Age is how much charge the battery can hold based on design.
28% means that it can hold only 28% of the original capacity.

Only a severely aged battery is like this.
As other said, deplete the battery in hekate and then do a full charge. Play, then hekate again and then full charge.
It will have a more accurate reading after these 2 full charge cycles.

 

[DerProGamer2000]

Age is how much charge the battery can hold based on design.
28% means that it can hold only 28% of the original capacity.

Only a severely aged battery is like this.
As other said, deplete the battery in hekate and then do a full charge. Play, then hekate again and then full charge.
It will have a more accurate reading after these 2 full charge cycles.

should i do the hekate discharge when horizon says empty betary and then when im in hekate wait until it fully discharges until it shuts off with no sign of life and then charge it until like 4,2v so 100% and the discharge while playing and then hekate again until cutoff?

 

[CTCaer]

should i do the hekate discharge when horizon says empty betary and then when im in hekate wait until it fully discharges until it shuts off with no sign of life and then charge it until like 4,2v so 100% and the discharge while playing and then hekate again until cutoff?

Exactly that.

 

[DerProGamer2000]

Exactly that.

thx for the infos and i didn't even notice that you work on hekate and release the hekate versions

 

[guily6669]

If I was you I would simply remove battery, press power button for like 10 seconds and assemble everything and most likely its already fixed, then do like 2 or more full cycles for Switch to learn about the battery capacity.

But anyway when you left it stored, did you left it with 0% battery? Never leave a empty Li-ion for long storage, it deteriorates the battery a lot.

So leaving the Switch off for extended period of time is bad for the battery?
Then what trick is Nintendo doing for new consoles? AFAIK their battery work fine even after being off for two years.

New batteries I think have some chemistry protection in them which kinda go away after the break-in period when they achieve max capacity after like 5 cycles probably with heat the protective chemistry goes away...

At least I heard that somewhere...

 

[DerProGamer2000]

If I was you I would simply remove battery, press power button for like 10 seconds and assemble everything and most likely its already fixed, then do like 2 or more full cycles for Switch to learn about the battery capacity.

But anyway when you left it stored, did you left it with 0% battery? Never leave a empty Li-ion for long storage, it deteriorates the battery a lot.

New batteries I think have some chemistry protection in them which kinda go away after the break-in period when they achieve max capacity after like 5 cycles probably with heat the protective chemistry goes away...

At least I heard that somewhere...

the break in thing with the cemistry is done from the factory i think and i left my switch with about 50% battery in a cool room because i have gone through the trouble and read about how to store li-ion battery safely and proper so that should al have been correct.
and the problem is that i dont have my tri wing screewdriver yet because i ordered it from china and it takes like a month for it to arrive

 

[CTCaer]

If I was you I would simply remove battery, press power button for like 10 seconds and assemble everything and most likely its already fixed, then do like 2 or more full cycles for Switch to learn about the battery capacity.

But anyway when you left it stored, did you left it with 0% battery? Never leave a empty Li-ion for long storage, it deteriorates the battery a lot.

New batteries I think have some chemistry protection in them which kinda go away after the break-in period when they achieve max capacity after like 5 cycles probably with heat the protective chemistry goes away...

At least I heard that somewhere...

the break in thing with the cemistry is done from the factory i think and i left my switch with about 50% battery in a cool room because i have gone through the trouble and read about how to store li-ion battery safely and proper so that should al have been correct.
and the problem is that i dont have my tri wing screewdriver yet because i ordered it from china and it takes like a month for it to arrive

That break in thing you both talk about was with old lithium batteries. Decade old.

3 things remain the same:
Constant low and high voltages damage lithium batteries. And of course we are not talking about hours or days. But more. And what you loose is max capacity.
Also under the hood, horizon might show 100% but it could actually be 95% (~4.1V). That's the battery relief.
And the 3rd is temperature as was said. You can easily lose max capacity from high temperatures. My phone has 83% max capacity, even though I never reached the 500 full charge cycles (it's Li-Po, so this number is way higher). And that's because the SoC (Snapdragon 810) is a toaster.

Some more info:
Switch's battery dies (getting disabled by the battery protection ic) at 2.7V.
Forgetting a switch in RCM mode, can reach that level. That's because at around ~3.0V the battery charger initiates the cutoff to system. But it still consumes some battery because of the ICs and the battery's internal resistance.
Nintendo is shipping the consoles with shipping mode. This mode is the first battery desync fix that got out in the wild.
It actually disconnects the battery completely and can be re-connected with the first plug to a charger.
That means, that if you done the mistake, a year before, to charge it for even a second, this feature got disabled and the battery was drained by the battery charger and fuel gauge ICs.

The unplug of the battery will do the same calibration with the full charge cycles. Albeit faster. This method needs around 2 full charge cycles, but the one I proposed may take more.
But you are all forgetting that removing the heatsink will reduce your heat dissipation. (I never saw a post that the user actually replaced the thermal paste. And thermal paste does not work like this. You can't just remove the heatsink and reseat it).

Anyway, it's not unusual for this to happen. Because I was developing for weeks, I never done a full charge cycle at that period. And I had a 75% age and that went back to 98% after the first full charge cycle (hekate style: ~3.4V).

 

[xabier]

Hello,
i started to use my 3.0.0 switch again and installed cfw with hekate and atmosphere but noticed that my battery hold only charge for half an hour or so and i wonder why because i almost never used this switch before.
I looked at the battery info in hekate in console info and saw that the design capacity says something with 4xxx mAh but the actual full capacity is 13xx mAh and it says age 28% so 28% wear? which is odd cause it was only used for like mariokart a few hours before i got my 2nd switch then the switch was put in the box turned off for half an year or so.
and another thing i noticed is that hekate says 0% battery even tho the battery is at 3,8v-3,9v which isn't normal because a li-ion battery can be has capacity left untill arround 3,0v
im going to put a picture of the battery menu thingy here.

I had already tried the battery desync fix before but it somehow made it worse and now im stuck with this. should i just unplug the battery for a few seconds and see again or measure with a multimeter if the voltage readout is correct?

There is a battery bug con v3.0 if it powers off at 0% battery. Happened to mine, had to update. Its possible to update without burning the fuses if you use autorcm. And you would be able to go back to 3.0 when needed. If you have a game with 3.0.1(I think Mario oddisey does have it) you could update without losing possible coldboot exploit

 

[DerProGamer2000]

That break in thing you both talk about was with old lithium batteries. Decade old.

3 things remain the same:
Constant low and high voltages damage lithium batteries. And of course we are not talking about hours or days. But more. And what you loose is max capacity.
Also under the hood, horizon might show 100% but it could actually be 95% (~4.1V). That's the battery relief.
And the 3rd is temperature as was said. You can easily lose max capacity from high temperatures. My phone has 83% max capacity, even though I never reached the 500 full charge cycles (it's Li-Po, so this number is way higher). And that's because the SoC (Snapdragon 810) is a toaster.

Some more info:
Switch's battery dies (getting disabled by the battery protection ic) at 2.7V.
Forgetting a switch in RCM mode, can reach that level. That's because at around ~3.0V the battery charger initiates the cutoff to system. But it still consumes some battery because of the ICs and the battery's internal resistance.
Nintendo is shipping the consoles with shipping mode. This mode is the first battery desync fix that got out in the wild.
It actually disconnects the battery completely and can be re-connected with the first plug to a charger.
That means, that if you done the mistake, a year before, to charge it for even a second, this feature got disabled and the battery was drained by the battery charger and fuel gauge ICs.

The unplug of the battery will do the same calibration with the full charge cycles. Albeit faster. This method needs around 2 full charge cycles, but the one I proposed may take more.
But you are all forgetting that removing the heatsink will reduce your heat dissipation. (I never saw a post that the user actually replaced the thermal paste. And thermal paste does not work like this. You can't just remove the heatsink and reseat it).

Anyway, it's not unusual for this to happen. Because I was developing for weeks, I never done a full charge cycle at that period. And I had a 75% age and that went back to 98% after the first full charge cycle (hekate style: ~3.4V).

First thanks for some much details with the switch battery and batteries in general but is there a way to reenable that shipping mode by maybe shorting aa pins on the motherboard? And would you recommend that i take off the heatsink and replace the thermal compund with a more high quality one or is the stock compund good enough? because i recently did the same on my gaming laptop and replacing the stock compund from the manufacturer got me like 10-15C down. i replaced it because the laptop was thermal throttling out of the box (new laptop) and replacing th compunde fixed the throttling so i wounder if i would get better docked performance on the switch if i replace the compound.
i wrote compound alot haha

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------

There is a battery bug con v3.0 if it powers off at 0% battery. Happened to mine, had to update. Its possible to update without burning the fuses if you use autorcm. And you would be able to go back to 3.0 when needed. If you have a game with 3.0.1(I think Mario oddisey does have it) you could update without losing possible coldboot exploit

well my switch never powered off at 0% was at 50% when i used it and was like 10% after half a year

 

[CTCaer]

First thanks for some much details with the switch battery and batteries in general but is there a way to reenable that shipping mode by maybe shorting aa pins on the motherboard? And would you recommend that i take off the heatsink and replace the thermal compund with a more high quality one or is the stock compund good enough? because i recently did the same on my gaming laptop and replacing the stock compund from the manufacturer got me like 10-15C down. i replaced it because the laptop was thermal throttling out of the box (new laptop) and replacing th compunde fixed the throttling so i wounder if i would get better docked performance on the switch if i replace the compound.
i wrote compound alot haha

--------------------- MERGED ---------------------------


well my switch never powered off at 0% was at 50% when i used it and was like 10% after half a year

The code that enables shipping mode exists in hekate but it's disabled. Also you need to follow a little bit different path when executing it (before running it, you have to disconnect the USB cable).

All thermal compounds that manufacturers use are crap (cost reduction).
And when you see a pink one (greaze or pad), it's absolute garbage.

 

[guily6669]

That break in thing you both talk about was with old lithium batteries. Decade old......

I think they remain the same on the break-in, at least in RC stuff they still use the around 5 charges for li-ion and lipos to achieve max capacity and when they come from factory they can probably be left untouched for a few years with not much problems or damage, but after a few cycles, leaving them at 0% is bad because they will drop below their safest low voltage and capacity gets damaged a lot or they might never come out alive anymore (which is not usual for a low cycle battery, but highly to happen on a very used battery).

All my Lipos also start ballooning after leaving them uncharged 4 years, but I have too many, I won't lose my whole life keeping them charged every god damn month.

And about your phone, you meant Li-ion or does your phone really used Lipo? never had one with Lipo as they are mostly on RC that need HUGE discharging power and super fast charging at high amps, but they are the most explosive too and unsafe.

 

[CTCaer]

I think they remain the same on the break-in, at least in RC stuff they still use the around 5 charges for li-ion and lipos to achieve max capacity and when they come from factory they can probably be left untouched for a few years with not much problems or damage, but after a few cycles, leaving them at 0% is bad because they will drop below their safest low voltage and capacity gets damaged a lot or they might never come out alive anymore (which is not usual for a low cycle battery, but highly to happen on a very used battery).

All my Lipos also start ballooning after leaving them uncharged 4 years, but I have too many, I won't lose my whole life keeping them charged every god damn month.

And about your phone, you meant Li-ion or does your phone really used Lipo? never had one with Lipo as they are mostly on RC that need HUGE discharging power and super fast charging at high amps, but they are the most explosive too and unsafe.

They are way different in management and usage. RC batteries normally don't even have protection ic.
Also a typical lithium battery for electronics is never discharged lower than 3.2V. RC batteries can be "revived" if they get low. But for electronics normally no (without removing the battery ic pcb).
Lastly, they always come pre-cured from factory.

No need to charge them every month. If this was the case, then it would drive everyone crazy.
Best way is every 4-6 months at 40-50% (~3.75V). Otherwise, 70-80% every year.

Yeah it's a Li-Po 3.8V (max 4.35V). I have a sony (z5 compact). They still use their best batteries in flagship smartphones (for capacity and charge cycles).
I mean it's a tiny and slim battery but could hold 2895mAh (design is 2700mAh. I was lucky and had a good binning).

 

[guily6669]

Everyone still recommends doing a first higher time charge and the cycles everywhere for every device, but whatever...

I have a Sony Xperia Z2 and mine is a Li-ion, but your phone is way more recent too, never thought they would use Lipo in them

And about the RC, they can't be revived that good, I have quite a lot of dead batteries as I don't use them for a year, then a charge, then a year of no use, so at the end all of them keep dying grrr, I hope next battery technology can make them stay uncharged 4 ever.