Hacking Issue with Trinket M0 Installation

[HisokaRyodan]

Good morning guys, long time lurker, first time poster. Hopefully someone is able to help me out!

I have had a Trinket M0 installed in one of my Switches. When I go to boot on the switch, the trinket flashes yellow a bunch and then red, and then stays at a black screen. It is in-fact going into RCM mode, and once plugged into a computer I am able to push a payload, but it isn't pushing it automatically like it should.

Was wondering if someone could help. I am not experiencing at soldering, although have soldered, but don't feel comfortable doing it myself. Here are the videos and photos of my current switch with issues.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated! I did see in another thread someone saying if it goes to RCM mode that its the ground wire, but If someone could elaborate more of what needs to be done that would be great.

 

[thesjaakspoiler]

The Switch going into RCM is because AutoRCM is on.
That is a Switch thing, unrelated to the Trinket. But that is a good thing that shows your Switch is working correctly.

About the ground wire/RCM, some people don't wire the pin in the joycon connector to the ground.
But as you mention that your Switch goes in RCM mode when connecting it to a PC, it shows that it's working.
Nothing to worry about that either.

I found the description of the LED colors here :
https://github.com/Quantum-cross/sam-fusee-launcher-internal
Orange means waiting for the RCM mode.
Red means it can't find the Switch.
So your suspicion that it can't inject the payload is correct.
Also the black screen you see is the Switch going into the RCM mode waiting for a payload the be injected.

From the code of the Trinket I see it's just checking for the Switch USB connection several times and
if it doesn't find it after some time, it just gives up and shows a red light.

You could check with a multimeter if the USB wires are not broken.
Those are those 2 short wires soldered to where the USB connector was on the Trinket.
Also maybe check if that bottom wire isn't touching that ground pad.

Another possibility is that the USB port on the Trinket broke.
You could try to hook it up to a PC, press reset button twice and see the flashdrive shows up.
If not, then the USB port might be broken.

 

[HisokaRyodan]

The Switch going into RCM is because AutoRCM is on.
That is a Switch thing, unrelated to the Trinket. But that is a good thing that shows your Switch is working correctly.

About the ground wire/RCM, some people don't wire the pin in the joycon connector to the ground.
But as you mention that your Switch goes in RCM mode when connecting it to a PC, it shows that it's working.
Nothing to worry about that either.

I found the description of the LED colors here :
Orange means waiting for the RCM mode.
Red means it can't find the Switch.
So your suspicion that it can't inject the payload is correct.
Also the black screen you see is the Switch going into the RCM mode waiting for a payload the be injected.

From the code of the Trinket I see it's just checking for the Switch USB connection several times and
if it doesn't find it after some time, it just gives up and shows a red light.

You could check with a multimeter if the USB wires are not broken.
Those are those 2 short wires soldered to where the USB connector was on the Trinket.
Also maybe check if that bottom wire isn't touching that ground pad.

Another possibility is that the USB port on the Trinket broke.
You could try to hook it up to a PC, press reset button twice and see the flashdrive shows up.
If not, then the USB port might be broken.

Thank you so much for such a detailed response! I know this may sound stupid, but since the Trinket m0's USB is wired to the Switches USB, to check to see if the trinket is still working, I would just plug a USB cable from PC into the switches USB, and then with the switch on, double tap the trinkets reset button?

I just know that the USB connector was taken off, so logically thats what I believe you mean by hook it up to the PC.

I did just that just now, so i have the switch on in AutoRCM mode so that the Trinket gets power, and when I double click the reset button I get the same Purple, Yellow Yellow Yellow Red, red.

 

[MaxiBus]

Hey, its hard to tell where the problem is without seeing all solder points, but what you can see looks good.
Maybe you should resolder the USB Port to the trinket and try to reflash it.

Some tips:
Before you go any further with experiments and testing, i would recommend to undo the solderings completely. See, if your switch is working as vanilla, and then use the solder points on the backside of the mainboard (see attachement, from https://gbatemp.net/threads/interna...ybitsy-m0-express-guide-files-support.508068/). It takes a little longer because you have to remove the board first, but the solder points are much easier to work with and you can work much cleaner.

You could place the wires like this:

"USB Disconnect" made problems several times, so i do not use it anymore. After soldering the wires, make sure the switch is still running normally (especially, if it powers up, if the volume buttons are working and if the right joycon is working when connected)

On the front side, make sure that the bottom of the trinket is well insulated and has absolutely no contact with the processor's metal shield (=GND).

The rest should be no problem, dont be greedy with kapton tape and you should be successful.

EDIT: when you use the joy con wire, you do not have to use autorcm.

 

[HollowGrams]

Good morning guys, long time lurker, first time poster. Hopefully someone is able to help me out!

I have had a Trinket M0 installed in one of my Switches. When I go to boot on the switch, the trinket flashes yellow a bunch and then red, and then stays at a black screen. It is in-fact going into RCM mode, and once plugged into a computer I am able to push a payload, but it isn't pushing it automatically like it should.

Was wondering if someone could help. I am not experiencing at soldering, although have soldered, but don't feel comfortable doing it myself. Here are the videos and photos of my current switch with issues.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated! I did see in another thread someone saying if it goes to RCM mode that its the ground wire, but If someone could elaborate more of what needs to be done that would be great.

Load OFW - Reflash Trinket MO - Will work after.

https://gbatemp.net/threads/trinket-rebug-others-switchboot_uf2-fusee_uf2-modchip-software.526607/

 

[HisokaRyodan]

Hey, its hard to tell where the problem is without seeing all solder points, but what you can see looks good.
Maybe you should resolder the USB Port to the trinket and try to reflash it.

Some tips:
Before you go any further with experiments and testing, i would recommend to undo the solderings completely. See, if your switch is working as vanilla, and then use the solder points on the backside of the mainboard (see attachement, from It takes a little longer because you have to remove the board first, but the solder points are much easier to work with and you can work much cleaner.

You could place the wires like this:


"USB Disconnect" made problems several times, so i do not use it anymore. After soldering the wires, make sure the switch is still running normally (especially, if it powers up, if the volume buttons are working and if the right joycon is working when connected)

On the front side, make sure that the bottom of the trinket is well insulated and has absolutely no contact with the processor's metal shield (=GND).

The rest should be no problem, dont be greedy with kapton tape and you should be successful.

EDIT: when you use the joy con wire, you do not have to use autorcm.

Thank you for such great information. I was actually able to boot it with the Pwr + Reset button which wipes the Trinket and normal boots it. I am going to unsolder it out and try putting in a new trinket as No matter what I do, it wont be seen by windows. I always get the red light at the end, so it never goes into bootloader mode.

Load OFW - Reflash Trinket MO - Will work after.

I was able to use the Pwr + Reset to normal boot, and once powered down, I put the switch into RCM and pushed that Samd21_Update, but once I press the reset button twice, I get the same 4 yellow lights and a 5th red one. I am guessing that this means that the USB connections arent working so either they are bad (which the soldering is solid) or the USB port on the trinket is bad. If you have any other insights please let me know. Ordered a new trinket so will be able to try out a new one shortly.

 

[HollowGrams]

Thank you for such great information. I was actually able to boot it with the Pwr + Reset button which wipes the Trinket and normal boots it. I am going to unsolder it out and try putting in a new trinket as No matter what I do, it wont be seen by windows. I always get the red light at the end, so it never goes into bootloader mode.




I was able to use the Pwr + Reset to normal boot, and once powered down, I put the switch into RCM and pushed that Samd21_Update, but once I press the reset button twice, I get the same 4 yellow lights and a 5th red one. I am guessing that this means that the USB connections arent working so either they are bad (which the soldering is solid) or the USB port on the trinket is bad. If you have any other insights please let me know. Ordered a new trinket so will be able to try out a new one shortly.

Make sure drivers are installed for switch. Flash when in normal boot in HOS - Plug usb C to comp and switch - Press power to turn screen off - then double press trinket button. Switchboot or Trinket should pop up in my computer with drive letter - repeat steps if not by unplugging usb c, replugging, tap power, double press trinket button and see. Then drag uf2 file 1 to Switchboot or Trinket drive, window will close and now you should have a switchboot drive. Put uf2 file 2 in switchboot drive. Wait for flashing, like 20 seconds.

Power off and back on to CFW.

 

[HisokaRyodan]

Make sure drivers are installed for switch. Flash when in normal boot in HOS - Plug usb C to comp and switch - Press power to turn screen off - then double press trinket button. Switchboot or Trinket should pop up in my computer with drive letter - repeat steps if not by unplugging usb c, replugging, tap power, double press trinket button and see. Then drag uf2 file 1 to Switchboot or Trinket drive, window will close and now you should have a switchboot drive. Put uf2 file 2 in switchboot drive. Wait for flashing, like 20 seconds.

Power off and back on to CFW.

So now when I boot into the OFW, I am getting a Error code: 2107-0445. If i boot into Emunand CFW this error does not happen. I tried booting to emunand and trying what you said, but again it flashes 4 times yellow and then flashes red and is never seen by the PC.

Do you think the siwtch could have an actual issue?

Interestingly enough, If I try to boot the switch with a NS-Atmopshere loader in, WITHOUT the dongle, it never loads the payload, however if I put the jig in and the dongle, it will inject, most of the time. It seems to be somewhat hit or miss.

I was trying to take a video before this new error came up

 

[Decan]

Don't know if I can ask her or atart a new thread. But. I installed trinket m0. All straps


Everything g works perfect. ..except who I reassemble and put rhe fan and heatsink back on. I tested with out heat sink and with.


The problem. Is my vol+ buttons stops working when heat sink is screwed in. And vol- acks like vol+ would. The second I unscrew the 3 heatsink screws buttons are back to normal. I tighten any one of the 3 screws and back to messed up buttons.

I check for solder drops. Spashes. Briding and shorting. Everything looks good.

 

[Decan]

Don't know if I can ask her or atart a new thread. But. I installed trinket m0. All straps


Everything g works perfect. ..except who I reassemble and put rhe fan and heatsink back on. I tested with out heat sink and with.


The problem. Is my vol+ buttons stops working when heat sink is screwed in. And vol- acks like vol+ would. The second I unscrew the 3 heatsink screws buttons are back to normal. I tighten any one of the 3 screws and back to messed up buttons.

I check for solder drops. Spashes. Briding and shorting. Everything looks good.

 

[b00f0087]

What is the volume up resistor is gone. Also the pads are gone. Bought this second hand. I was also given the trinket m0