The final product should have something like:
https://techunwrapped.com/easter-eggs-on-your-pc-chips-have-hidden-surprises-too/
Last edited by linuxares,
https://techunwrapped.com/easter-eggs-on-your-pc-chips-have-hidden-surprises-too/
Let me give you my MONEY!!!!!!
Also here's a nice little diagram of the lite cable so you can use it instead of wiring directly to those tiny points!
They wrote an article about your board! I searched this thread but didn't see anyone post about it.
https://wololo.net/2023/03/27/mcfly...r-picofly-designed-to-fit-in-nintendo-switch/
That's so cool!
https://wololo.net/2023/03/27/mcfly...r-picofly-designed-to-fit-in-nintendo-switch/
That's so cool!
Huh. That's cool. I mean it's not designed to fit in a switch, it's just designed for general space constrained applications. I didn't really expect my silly little project to get an article all to itself lol
sounds like typical journalism to meeee
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Sounds like typical journalism too me. He should be humbled they didn't try to also assassinate his character and accuse him of isms
Final board specs, provided nothing shows up in testing
XY Size: 18.7x18.0mm
Thickness: ~1.6mm (substrate thickness and component selection dependent)
Component count: 36 total, 17 different types (Some of which are optional e.g. fpc connector)
All components available on LCSC
LCSC BOM cost for 5 with all optional components: $16.92 total (Less than 4 bucks each!!!)
JLCPCB cost for 5 0.6mm green FR4 boards with HASL finish (ugly but functional): $4.30 (order with tented vias for the sake of your sanity)
JLCPCB Stencil cost for 100x100 stencil without frame: $7.00
Shaping up to be a very cost effective little development board!
whilst you can assemble the boards without a stencil and solder paste i strongly recommend it, it makes the process much faster and easier. I assembled the boards pasting by hand because i forgot to order a stencil which also worked, and you could use an iron and reeled solder if you were insistent on saving money but honestly dont bother. Get a tube of t5 leaded chipquik solder paste and reflow it on tinfoil on a hotplate of some sort. Also recommend paying the extra for an electropolished stencil. The LED espeecially will prove tricky without a hot air station at the very least
XY Size: 18.7x18.0mm
Thickness: ~1.6mm (substrate thickness and component selection dependent)
Component count: 36 total, 17 different types (Some of which are optional e.g. fpc connector)
All components available on LCSC
LCSC BOM cost for 5 with all optional components: $16.92 total (Less than 4 bucks each!!!)
JLCPCB cost for 5 0.6mm green FR4 boards with HASL finish (ugly but functional): $4.30 (order with tented vias for the sake of your sanity)
JLCPCB Stencil cost for 100x100 stencil without frame: $7.00
Shaping up to be a very cost effective little development board!
whilst you can assemble the boards without a stencil and solder paste i strongly recommend it, it makes the process much faster and easier. I assembled the boards pasting by hand because i forgot to order a stencil which also worked, and you could use an iron and reeled solder if you were insistent on saving money but honestly dont bother. Get a tube of t5 leaded chipquik solder paste and reflow it on tinfoil on a hotplate of some sort. Also recommend paying the extra for an electropolished stencil. The LED espeecially will prove tricky without a hot air station at the very least
If you got any spares from testing I'm keen to try
else I'll wait.edit: I assume the ffc connector is for the cpu flex?I've got one left but that's for me, I want to use it for a keyboard lol. yeah the FFC connector breaks out a GPIO pin to a 6 pin 0.5mm pitch flat flex connector which i think aligns with the aliexpress CPU flexesIf you got any spares from testing I'm keen to try
Welcome to the switch hacking history books. Next thing you will be talked about on modern vintage gamer in the future.
In my head, I've been pronouncing it "Sah-lee-shay"
It's only been several days since @Saliciae sent out the 4 boards to testers. You must give the testers time to get the boards installed, and report back with their results on whether or not the chip will work (the likelihood is high that everything will function properly, as the dev did a power-on test without it hooked to a switch and it seemed to show the correct LED colors).hey, any update on this project?
Give it some time and we will have the files to build a board supplied to us when they are ready to be released. Until then, twiddle your thumbs to keep yourself distracted
I'm greatful to Saliciae for giving the chance to test one of his new McFly board. Pleasee pictures below of my install, the board works flawlessly and compared in difficulty level I'd put it on the same level as installing an OLED HWFLY V3/V4 via wire install. I've just literaly finished this like 10 minutes ago, but as I spend time on it I'm sure I'll have more feedback to give. The three main things I could up with straight are:
View attachment 0050.JPG
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- Rotate the solder pads 90 degrees towards the fan, makes wires routing easier and neater for almost any switch install
- Label the pads from top of the board, I took a picture of the board from beneath and used a reference once its mounted but someone can easily solder the wrong wire to the wrong pad
- CPU flex connector works with V3 CPU ribbion facing downwards but ones like lite ribbion and various other ones that facing upwards won't work
View attachment 0050.JPG
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View attachment 0082.JPG
View attachment 0084.JPG
Beautiful install work! Gorgeous soldering, well-fixated wiring, this is PicoFly McFly Pr0n!
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