If McFly is only using the middle 2pin as CPU Line for mosfet GATE line, fixing this issue should be fairly simple replacing the FPC connector with a top&bottom contacts NEW connector,instead of bottom only.
- CPU flex connector works with V3 CPU ribbion facing downwards but ones like lite ribbion and various other ones that facing upwards won't work
The Hirose FH34 connector I chose was supposed to be double sided but didn't seem to work, I'll see if I can find another low profile oneIf McFly is only using the middle 2pin as CPU Line for mosfet GATE line, fixing this issue should be fairly simple replacing the FPC connector with a top&bottom contacts NEW connector,instead of bottom only.
Great job! Love to see McFly PicoFlying!!I'm greatful to Saliciae for giving the chance to test one of his new McFly board. Pleasee pictures below of my install, the board works flawlessly and compared in difficulty level I'd put it on the same level as installing an OLED HWFLY V3/V4 via wire install. I've just literaly finished this like 10 minutes ago, but as I spend time on it I'm sure I'll have more feedback to give. The three main things I could up with straight are:
- Rotate the solder pads 90 degrees towards the fan, makes wires routing easier and neater for almost any switch install
- Label the pads from top of the board, I took a picture of the board from beneath and used a reference once its mounted but someone can easily solder the wrong wire to the wrong pad
- CPU flex connector works with V3 CPU ribbion facing downwards but ones like lite ribbion and various other ones that facing upwards won't work
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I've not put the metal sheet back on yet but i'll update, however from eye inspction it looks like it may not need to be cut.Great job! Love to see McFly PicoFlying!!
Question: I remember that @Saliciae made a quite slim board, though did you had to cut the shield of the Lite? With RP2040-zero (no USB no buttons) positioned on the same place the shield needs cutting or there will be a lot of pressure after closing.
If adding label on top would increase size then scrap that, would using one letter instead makes differece like on the HWFLY A, C, D, V (for 3.3v) and G for (GND)?Quick browse on LCSC shows all 6 pin 0.5mm pitch double sided connctors wwith a slim height are either the hirose or a knockoff of the hirose, i'm going to fiddle with the board i have to hand and see if i can find out why it wasn't working in both orientations
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Pin labels on the top side would make the board about 10-15% wider for no reason, I could put the labels on another snap off section aligned with the pads so it can be snapped off before soldering and used as a guide, it would line up with the pads and register against the connector so it's obvious which way round it went, interested to hear people's opinions on this approach. I'd really like to keep it as small as humanly possible
silkscreening the point names wont take up spaceIf adding label on top would increase size then scrap that, would using one letter instead makes differece like on the HWFLY A, C, D, V (for 3.3v) and G for (GND)?
Everything is so compressed on this board, especially on the new version that it really will take up space. if you look at the new picture (https://gbatemp.net/threads/mcfly-an-rp2040-board-compatible-with-picofly.629024/post-10128107) and take into account text size requirements and silk clearance requirements i'll have to shuffle components around to make it all work even with just one character labels.silkscreening the point names wont take up space
https://hackaday.com/tag/text-in-pad/Everything is so compressed on this board, especially on the new version that it really will take up space. if you look at the new picture (https://gbatemp.net/threads/mcfly-an-rp2040-board-compatible-with-picofly.629024/post-10128107) and take into account text size requirements and silk clearance requirements i'll have to shuffle components around to make it all work even with just one character labels.
holy shit I was just about to post this. One of the few domains I have visted every week over the last decade.
Nice trick. So obvious yet i have never thought about it. Thanks for sharing it.
omg it's so tiny and PURPLE!I'm greatful to Saliciae for giving the chance to test one of his new McFly board. Pleasee pictures below of my install, the board works flawlessly and compared in difficulty level I'd put it on the same level as installing an OLED HWFLY V3/V4 via wire install. I've just literaly finished this like 10 minutes ago, but as I spend time on it I'm sure I'll have more feedback to give. The three main things I could up with straight are:
- Rotate the solder pads 90 degrees towards the fan, makes wires routing easier and neater for almost any switch install
- Label the pads from top of the board, I took a picture of the board from beneath and used a reference once its mounted but someone can easily solder the wrong wire to the wrong pad
- CPU flex connector works with V3 CPU ribbion facing downwards but ones like lite ribbion and various other ones that facing upwards won't work
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New version is even smaller, waiting on more feedback from the rest of the testers then it'll get any changes needed and releasedomg it's so tiny and PURPLE!
Is there any chance of ever adding a place for an optional onboard Mosfet? I mean the chip sits very close to the APU anyway and it's worth giving it a tryNew version is even smaller, waiting on more feedback from the rest of the testers then it'll get any changes needed and released
I think the HWFLY lite and oled flex cables have the same spacing etc since its the same chip and yep thats the cableI have a question, how should one position the chip to use the latest (v5 as of now) HWFly ribbon cabble in a switch lite? Or should I go with a different flex cable?
Found the cables here.
Oh and I almost forgot, should I get this as well ? Straight Cable For Lite