Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[nico77]

Well it's done, with huge success.

First picofly install for testing in my own switch lite. I preferred make myself the mosfet glitcher. The soldering process is painful, same in microscope.


I was in doubt if was better start the installation test in my v2 or lite. How is basically for learning, I guess the micropoints solders of lite are a good teacher about difficulty with micro soldering. Next phase is try a oled installation from zero, included homemade mosfet glitcher

I confess: the micropoints of switch lite board for clock/cmd/dat0/ dive me in a frequent conspiracy about shortcut. I was made the soldering points near of 20 times, to certificate about the things are completely well done.

congrats
those mosfets soo tiny yep
i give up with 8342 hehehe, frikin tiny for me.

I've just finished my picofly installation. Now im struggling at this screen. What should i do next? Or where i can find some guides? i have 128gb samsung microsd card and have no idea to do with it.

congrats

 

[s4n0suk3]

hi everyone i still having problems with my pico install, tried with anoter rp2040 and again (first time blue, white, them cyan) and now only blue then cyan. checked like @Phantomas77 tell me and i had 15ohms between drain and source here some pics of my mosfet install if anyone see any problem

 

[bilalhassan341]

Will this Wire Work for mosfet?. It is a AWG 30 (0.25mm).

 

[jordanbearbear]

Hi, I tried doing the Picofly mod earlier today on the switch lite. Anyways it didn't go well (I kept getting a blue light then a bad CLK/CMD). I tried to undo the mod but I accidentally damaged the ribbon cable (doesn't look very badly damaged). The main question is my switch lite does not turn on now. But when it has the RP 2040 connected to the 3.3v and Ground there is light on the RP 2040 when the power button is pressed. Any idea what could be the issue?

I have bought a replacement ribbon cable from the main board to the left joystick board (waiting for delivery) but is that the issue? or could it be something else? Thanks

 

[Phantomas77]

hi everyone i still having problems with my pico install, tried with anoter rp2040 and again (first time blue, white, them cyan) and now only blue then cyan. checked like @Phantomas77 tell me and i had 15ohms between drain and source here some pics of my mosfet install if anyone see any problem

Ok, so lets recap, which console version is this?
You're using what looks 2xIRFHS8342, the resistance between S&D when soldered is good, verify as well that there're no shorts between Gate and GND.
The resistors are 47 Ohms on the DAT0, CLK and CMD line?
From where are you sourcing the +3.3V? If it's not the same point as in the AIO guide's diagram, that's the problem.

The solder point in the pic below looks sketchy, like it's a cold joint on Drain pin and soldered together to Source wire. Tin it again and ensure the wires are isolated and not touching.

Post automatically merged: May 13, 2023

Will this Wire Work for mosfet?. It is a AWG 30 (0.25mm).

It's perfect for the Source and Drain, for Gate you can use a thinner enamel wire

I use as well AWG30 for GND and +3.3V.

 

[s4n0suk3]

Ok, so lets recap, which console version is this?
You're using what looks 2xIRFHS8342, the resistance between S&D when soldered is good, verify as well that there're no shorts between Gate and GND.
The resistors are 47 Ohms on the DAT0, CLK and CMD line?
From where are you sourcing the +3.3V? If it's not the same point as in the AIO guide's diagram, that's the problem.

The solder point in the pic below looks sketchy, like it's a cold joint on Drain pin and soldered together to Source wire. Tin it again and ensure the wires are isolated and not touching.

Post automatically merged: May 13, 2023

It's perfect for the Source and Drain, for Gate you can use a thinner enamel wire

I use as well AWG30 for GND and +3.3V.

mine is switch v2 using 47 ohms resistor ok will try again thanks for quick response

 

[jam_tac_cool]

It's apparently working after replacing a few resistors.

Thx for the info. Could you let me know what are these resistors I have to replace? I have this board on hand. Thank you!

 

[QuiTim]

Thx for the info. Could you let me know what are these resistors I have to replace? I have this board on hand. Thank you!

Something like this (just dont forget to bridge the points of the resistors once you remove them):
Or you could resolder 0201 47ohm resistors and replace the existing ones (which are 470ohm) in the same spot

 

[jam_tac_cool]

Something like this (just dont forget to bridge the points of the resistors once you remove them):
Or you could resolder 0201 47ohm resistors and replace the existing ones (which are 470ohm) in the same spot

Works like a charm!

 

[QuiTim]

Works like a charm!

This is the best kind of replay
Great work.

 

[nico77]

Works like a charm!

wow!!
finally
someone use Tiny

congrats!!!

 

[MrNatto]

V2 picofly with hole in heat shield.

 

[nico77]

Works like a charm!

btw how the RP2040 Tiny fit with the metal heatshield??

is it fit perfectly ?
since the RP2040 zero need to remove port usb-C
how is it compare to RP2040 Tiny ?

 

[chronoss]

Hi !!!

Just to know, i can reset my Switch with Picofly installed ?
I need to reset it to erase all account inside...
Thanks a lot !!!

 

[jam_tac_cool]

btw how the RP2040 Tiny fit with the metal heatshield??

View attachment 371141

is it fit perfectly ?
since the RP2040 zero need to remove port usb-C
how is it compare to RP2040 Tiny ?

It fits pretty well under the heat shield. I used double-sided tape to place the Tiny on the EMMC shield below the heat shield. The Tiny has a low-profile FPC connector connected to a USB adapter board(it contains USB TYPE-C female socket, FPC connector, Boot, and Reset button). Also, the backside of the Tiny board is a flat surface.

 

[nico77]

It fits pretty well under the heat shield. I used double-sided tape to place the Tiny on the EMMC shield below the heat shield. The Tiny has a low-profile FPC connector connected to a USB adapter board(it contains USB TYPE-C female socket, FPC connector, Boot, and Reset button). Also, the backside of the Tiny board is a flat surface.

nice

tiny gonna look perfect when installed.

did you use RP2040 zero before ?
or instantly use the RP2040 Tiny ?

 

[swichitup]

I have a supplier at the moment supplying lite motherboard with Pico fitted for £110 UK only and also through eBay so PayPal can be used for safety.

PM me if anyone is interested

 

[lightninjay]

Just finished up my fourth picofly install, third switch lite. Technically this mod was done before the second switch lite, but I mangled the daughterboard connector from opening and closing it too much.

Thankfully, the connectors are available online from parts repair stores, so I ordered two and attempted the replacement myself with a lot of flux, a hot-air station, and at the recommendation of a youtube video I watched, I heated the bottom of the board to remove the connector and place the new one. I didn't get super large solder blobbing on every single pin, but she boots with a live and working screen plus touch and left joycon control!

I have a few more switches in the pipeline for friends that I plan to mod with picofly, but it will be a little before that happens. The next install is likely going to be a roadtrip with my tools to a friends', to perform an install in his living room with him present lol.

Frontside of the connector after replacement


Backside of the connector after replacement

 

[malgamer]

Hi guys.
Is it normal the boot take about 10s glitchin sometimes?

Actually I ch

Hi guys.
Is it normal the boot take about 10s glitchin sometimes?

Actually I changed the wires. Using AWG38 for RST, CLK, DAT and CMD. Others using AWG30

it is normal if your emmc toshiba and skyhynix
anged the wires. Using AWG38 for RST, CLK, DAT and CMD. Others using AWG30your

 

[jordanbearbear]

Just finished up my fourth picofly install, third switch lite. Technically this mod was done before the second switch lite, but I mangled the daughterboard connector from opening and closing it too much.

Thankfully, the connectors are available online from parts repair stores, so I ordered two and attempted the replacement myself with a lot of flux, a hot-air station, and at the recommendation of a youtube video I watched, I heated the bottom of the board to remove the connector and place the new one. I didn't get super large solder blobbing on every single pin, but she boots with a live and working screen plus touch and left joycon control!

I have a few more switches in the pipeline for friends that I plan to mod with picofly, but it will be a little before that happens. The next install is likely going to be a roadtrip with my tools to a friends', to perform an install in his living room with him present lol.

Frontside of the connector after replacement
View attachment 371184

Backside of the connector after replacement
View attachment 371183

Sorry to bother you, is it possible to check with you what the daughter board does?

I accidentally damaged the ribbon cable from the main board to the daughter board. Now my switch lite does not turn on. (No sound, no display, nth) But the motherboard shows power when I press the power button @ 3.3v pt.
(Tested this with the picofly)

Could that ribbon cable to the daughter board be the issue or it is smt else?