Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

FreeLander

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@QuiTim @Dee87 @deeps


Thank you so much for your help and encouragement. I soldered a copper strip to the CLK point, then it booted to OFW, I wired the pico and plugged in the power cable to a naked motherboard, and got the same *==.

However, when I put the board back to the chase and connected the screen and battery. I got a glitch. Don't know how that happened. All I know is that I had a black screen OLED and now I can see the forbidden fruit!

Thank you again!
 

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Danook28

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Any one know the point A resistor value and the two resistor and capacitor near B point I dont know why rst point not give any value if i read with multimater red on point and black on ground....

I think the reson that chip get red light is cpu shell touch the d point my misteaks is not cover it with soldring mask try boot again that two short i think damge resistor or capacitor motherbord me be...
 
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QuiTim

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@QuiTim @Dee87 @deeps


Thank you so much for your help and encouragement. I soldered a copper strip to the CLK point, then it booted to OFW, I wired the pico and plugged in the power cable to a naked motherboard, and got the same *==.

However, when I put the board back to the chase and connected the screen and battery. I got a glitch. Don't know how that happened. All I know is that I had a black screen OLED and now I can see the forbidden fruit!

Thank you again!
You have come a long way my friend, I'm so happy to see that you managed to bring this one back to life.
As Pele said: “Success is no accident. It is hard work, perseverance, learning, studying, sacrifice and most of all, love of what you are doing or learning to do.”
Cheers
 

Dee87

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Any one know the point A resistor value and the two resistor and capacitor near B point I dont know why rst point not give any value if i read with multimater red on point and black on ground....

I think the reson that chip get red light is cpu shell touch the d point my misteaks is not cover it with soldring mask try boot again that two short i think damge resistor or capacitor motherbord me be...
Are u still talking about the hwfly?
If so can't u just use a hwfly thread?
If none available maybe make one?
We don't use point a or b on picofly ;-)
 

scionae

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Hi everyone, this is my situation, when I plug in the battery pack and turn on my switch nothing happens, what did I do wrong?
 

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sheggy012

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dat0 running through that alignment indicator circle is a very convenient visual marker. though, being in between other lines makes me a little wary of potential damage to the surrounding traces. I looked at the board scans and found that the dat0 line also comes out into a via pad beneath two ground layers near the cmd resistor, with fewer small traces surrounding it. would be interesting to see if this point is possible as well

View attachment 382849
Thank you for the picture. If I see it correctly, this spot has much more room to play with. To the right there seems to be a lot of space that you can "drill" accidentally without damaging anything. I will try that out this weekend.
 

FreeLander

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Turns out, Dee was right. These adaptors are a nightmare, my return has shot up with this last batch of dat0 adaptors that I'm using. Though they look good. I took Setheix advice and cut off the little natch on the left so I can insert it further. Will see if it helps.
 

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Dee87

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Turns out, Dee was right. These adaptors are a nightmare, my return has shot up with this last batch of dat0 adaptors that I'm using. Though they look good. I took Setheix advice and cut off the little natch on the left so I can insert it further. Will see if it helps.
ur doing somuch switches stop using those shitty adapter and reball and take pride of ur work , everyone who is using those adapters dont really take pride of there work
 

FreeLander

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ur doing somuch switches stop using those shitty adapter and reball and take pride of ur work , everyone who is using those adapters dont really take pride of there work
I agree. I'm learning how to reball. that's one skill I really want to master.
Post automatically merged:

ur doing somuch switches stop using those shitty adapter and reball and take pride of ur work , everyone who is using those adapters dont really take pride of there work
Any general advice?
I do 250C, 380C, then 400C one minute each to take it out. No issues.
Reballing multiple times using a cheap stencil.
but the challenge in my case is re-flowing it. Doesn't seem to hold still when re-placed. What do you set your temp and air at to put it back?
 
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Danook28

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I agree. I'm learning how to reball. that's one skill I really want to master.
Post automatically merged:


Any general advice?
I do 250C, 380C, then 400C one minute each to take it out. No issues.
Reballing multiple times using a cheap stencil.
but the challenge in my case is re-flowing it. Doesn't seem to hold still when re-placed. What do you set your temp and air at to put it back?


280c to 320c is it good for desolder mmc. I think the oled console have black secreen coz some of iron balls go under chip from soldring paste after clean that adapter legs some of them go under and make this broblume. When i add adapter i dont use any heat this is hope to back life again,,,,
 
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Dee87

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I agree. I'm learning how to reball. that's one skill I really want to master.
Post automatically merged:


Any general advice?
I do 250C, 380C, then 400C one minute each to take it out. No issues.
Reballing multiple times using a cheap stencil.
but the challenge in my case is re-flowing it. Doesn't seem to hold still when re-placed. What do you set your temp and air at to put it back?
dont add tomuch flcux at the beginning , i add a small amount of flux to the board and swipe it over the emmc so u have a very thin layer of flux and then preset the emmc there are markes on the top left and bottom or top right and left bottom of the board align the emmc.
so that each corner sits with the same amount of coverage over those markers and make sure u have the emmc sitting in the correct positioning with the dot on the emmc .
set airflow to 50 percent and like 30-40c over the melting point of ur solder paste and slowley heat it up till the emmc sets its self, i give the emmc a very tiny knock on the top side so i am sure the emmc sits properly and volla u are done.
 

Weird-Parking356

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Hello.

I don't know the thickness but I took it from a cell phone charging cable.
yes , thanks i tried the earlier version and it give me the red light confirmation. but now after i install it , the led flash blue and later some kind of between red and purple , any idea?
Post automatically merged:

There is no need for thicker wire then 0.1mm on oled with picofly , it makes no difference in anything. and beginners shouldnt use any thicker wire anyways all there gonne do with thicker wire is rip of pads
Post automatically merged:


there are completly different colors with the new firmware. we now have "morse code as issue discribtion "
i tried an earlier version and made the red light confirmation, but now after i install it , it flash blue and then some kind of red-purple and always start with the console system, any idea?
 
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FreeLander

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dont add tomuch flcux at the beginning , i add a small amount of flux to the board and swipe it over the emmc so u have a very thin layer of flux and then preset the emmc there are markes on the top left and bottom or top right and left bottom of the board align the emmc.
so that each corner sits with the same amount of coverage over those markers and make sure u have the emmc sitting in the correct positioning with the dot on the emmc .
set airflow to 50 percent and like 30-40c over the melting point of ur solder paste and slowley heat it up till the emmc sets its self, i give the emmc a very tiny knock on the top side so i am sure the emmc sits properly and volla u are done.
Pretty valuable points. Thank you, brother.
 
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Dee87

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yes , thanks i tried the earlier version and it give me the red light confirmation. but now after i install it , the led flash blue and later some kind of between red and purple , any idea?
Post automatically merged:


i tried an earlier version and made the red light confirmation, but now after i install it , it flash blue and then some kind of red-purple and always start with the console system, any idea?
I think purple was cmd/clk not sure anymore, u should install 2.73 and see what gives u.
Post automatically merged:

Pretty valuable points. Thank you, brother.
No problem
 

Weird-Parking356

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I think purple was cmd/clk not sure anymore, u should install 2.73 and see what gives u.
Post automatically merged:


No problem
that was the first firmware i tried adn didn t work either , and yes i think is clk but don t know way that error , i use a slim wire , could it be that ?
 

twins333

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that was the first firmware i tried adn didn t work either , and yes i think is clk but don t know way that error , i use a slim wire , could it be that ?
If it doesn't work with 2.73, then the firmware is NOT the problem. Check your wiring and soldering. Make sure the insulation on the wires is not broken somewhere on a corner where the wire is rubbing against a shield or something. Measure everything.
 
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Dee87

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that was the first firmware i tried adn didn t work either , and yes i think is clk but don t know way that error , i use a slim wire , could it be that ?
The Firmware is not the problem the install has an issue and u need to check what that code says to find the issue thats what its for. put 2.73 back on and let us know what the code says.
Post automatically merged:

that was the first firmware i tried adn didn t work either , and yes i think is clk but don t know way that error , i use a slim wire , could it be that ?
and then also send us pictures of ur install
 
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