Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

Hadobedo

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Hi, just performed a picofly install on a Switch OLED w/ one of those chinese boards that come with the FPCBs and am just suffering one small issue. There is a 10-20% chance the Picofly errors with code **= or *=* and then the Switch boots normally into OFW. The rest of the time it boots into hekate/atmosphere no problem. They are eMMC DAT0 errors I believe. I replaced the V5 DAT0 adapter with a corner DAT0 adapter because of this issue but also because on OFW I noticed it would either get stuck at Nintendo (Switch) logo or boot to home screen then crash with error 2002-3539. Once I replaced the DAT0 adapter, the crashing/freezing on OFW stopped but the chip still fails to glitch with those LED errors occasionally. If I let the Switch sit for a few minutes and try booting again it usually works no problem.

I have a feeling it could be related to DAT0 wire, I have it run the same way most modders do ('under' the gamecard/microSD board direct to the picofly, NOT to the FPCB point) so I purchased better slightly thicker wire for the DAT0. Waiting for it to arrive. I am currently using 38AWG for DAT0 and RST but it seems a little too thin. If nothing else it is probably wise to replace the two wires with 36AWG regardless, i just got a little excited and used what wire I had on me lol.

Anyone else experience any similar LED codes with similar symptoms? I tried searching this thread for the LED codes but the search didn't wanna work for me so I'm gonna try and manually comb thru some pages lol.

I attached a picture of the picofly board from the ali listing. It looks identical to what I received.

thanks :)
 

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Dee87

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Hi, just performed a picofly install on a Switch OLED w/ one of those chinese boards that come with the FPCBs and am just suffering one small issue. There is a 10-20% chance the Picofly errors with code **= or *=* and then the Switch boots normally into OFW. The rest of the time it boots into hekate/atmosphere no problem. They are eMMC DAT0 errors I believe. I replaced the V5 DAT0 adapter with a corner DAT0 adapter because of this issue but also because on OFW I noticed it would either get stuck at Nintendo (Switch) logo or boot to home screen then crash with error 2002-3539. Once I replaced the DAT0 adapter, the crashing/freezing on OFW stopped but the chip still fails to glitch with those LED errors occasionally. If I let the Switch sit for a few minutes and try booting again it usually works no problem.

I have a feeling it could be related to DAT0 wire, I have it run the same way most modders do ('under' the gamecard/microSD board direct to the picofly, NOT to the FPCB point) so I purchased better slightly thicker wire for the DAT0. Waiting for it to arrive. I am currently using 38AWG for DAT0 and RST but it seems a little too thin. If nothing else it is probably wise to replace the two wires with 36AWG regardless, i just got a little excited and used what wire I had on me lol.

Anyone else experience any similar LED codes with similar symptoms? I tried searching this thread for the LED codes but the search didn't wanna work for me so I'm gonna try and manually comb thru some pages lol.

I attached a picture of the picofly board from the ali listing. It looks identical to what I received.

thanks :)
this is a Hwfly chip no Picofly .......... ask hwfly since they sell there chips with Firmware created by the community and make money off of it.
so they should be able to support u since they charge for a pre Flashed board with someone elses Firmware ;-)
 

Hadobedo

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this is a Hwfly chip no Picofly .......... ask hwfly since they sell there chips with Firmware created by the community and make money off of it.
so they should be able to support u since they charge for a pre Flashed board with someone elses Firmware ;-)
would it really make that much of a difference installing a HWfly-shaped Picofly vs. a 'virgin'/'OEM' RP2040 Picofly? it runs the same FW as Picofly (shipped with 2.74, downgraded to 2.73) can access with picofly toolbox etc.
 
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Dee87

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would it really make that much of a difference installing a HWfly-shaped Picofly vs. a 'virgin'/'OEM' RP2040 Picofly? it runs the same FW as Picofly (shipped with 2.74, downgraded to 2.73) can access with picofly toolbox etc.
see the thing is they reproduce the Idea from someone else and make good money off of it so they should also do the support for it correct?

they even sent u a board with depriciated firmware that has issue and they dont even care.

hwfly sold chips for 150 production maybe 5$ for them the only reason the prices are so cheap now is cause of the community that made this possible for free and other people make money off of it.

if u support them by buying there chips u should also ask them for support with ur issue correct ?

i mean the chip and all is the same sure but its just the point , u ask the community who created the chip (not me) for help when u buy a chip preflashed with community made firmware from someone who probally have already made 50,000+ from selling a idea from a community who did all the work to make this all possible.

thats why i think its a bit rude to ask here for help best thing would be is to create your guys own "HwflY rp2040 chip " thread
 

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dat0 running through that alignment indicator circle is a very convenient visual marker. though, being in between other lines makes me a little wary of potential damage to the surrounding traces. I looked at the board scans and found that the dat0 line also comes out into a via pad beneath two ground layers near the cmd resistor, with fewer small traces surrounding it. would be interesting to see if this point is possible as well

View attachment 382849
So today I followed your example and made the Kamikaze Mod. Has worked great. For me as someone who has never soldered BGA it's a great alternative. Probably I will modify future consoles also this way. Thanks for the pictures, these have helped a lot.

Thank you also for the Input @jkyoho and @CarlosCruz
 

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Takezo-San

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would it really make that much of a difference installing a HWfly-shaped Picofly vs. a 'virgin'/'OEM' RP2040 Picofly? it runs the same FW as Picofly (shipped with 2.74, downgraded to 2.73) can access with picofly toolbox etc.
Here's a question. Why don't you find a hwfly thread and ask your question over there. Just go back and amongst the pages of this thread. Countless times we have said we don't support hwfly. Countless. So why have you come here seeking help from a place that has stated....no hwfly!? We want freeware to stay free what you and anyone else does by buying hwfly is you've bought freeware and in turn supported people who sold you freeware. And then come to the real freeware thread for trouble shoot help. Do you see the asinine dilemma here?
 
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Ragna666

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Hi guys!
I have a problem with my oled console.
After placing the dat0 adapter i tried to boot it to ofw but my switch just won't turn on.
I don't know if it's because of the dat0 adapter or because the fan is missing, some fckface stole my fan, so i decided to mod my switch while the new fan arrives.
Reading with multimeter is 750 and sometimes 826.
 

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jkyoho

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So today I followed your example and made the Kamikaze Mod. Has worked great. For me as someone who has never soldered BGA it's a great alternative. Probably I will modify future consoles also this way. Thanks for the pictures, these have helped a lot.

Thank you also for the Input @jkyoho and @CarlosCruz
Don;t forget solder mask just in case
 
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Dee87

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Hi guys!
I have a problem with my oled console.
After placing the dat0 adapter i tried to boot it to ofw but my switch just won't turn on.
I don't know if it's because of the dat0 adapter or because the fan is missing, some fckface stole my fan, so i decided to mod my switch while the new fan arrives.
Reading with multimeter is 750 and sometimes 826.
How can someone steal ur fan Xd

well u could have shortetd ur dat0 point with the the dat1 point with that connecter, since this is one of the most common issue with those cheap adapters. and its not the fan that is giving u a issue.

when dat0/1 are bridged u corrupt ur emmc and that might be the reason that u are having that issue

did u install any of the other cable in the time beiing so that u have maybe made a mistake there ?
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So today I followed your example and made the Kamikaze Mod. Has worked great. For me as someone who has never soldered BGA it's a great alternative. Probably I will modify future consoles also this way. Thanks for the pictures, these have helped a lot.

Thank you also for the Input @jkyoho and @CarlosCruz
nice seeing it work for some people but its scaring me how many boards will be dead cause some people will try it this way Xd

but for goods sake please do not do this on costumers board , learn how to reball and do it the proper way.

ur damaging other peoples boards sure it might work but still.

reballing isnt that hard and when ur making money with it u really should learn how to do it the proper way ;-)
 
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Ragna666

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Update:
I fixed it right now fast.
I cleaned the emmc and other contacts with isopropyl alcohol again and then dried it out with my hot air gun i use for phone screen removing.
 

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Ragna666

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How can someone steal ur fan Xd

well u could have shortetd ur dat0 point with the the dat1 point with that connecter, since this is one of the most common issue with those cheap adapters. and its not the fan that is giving u a issue.

when dat0/1 are bridged u corrupt ur emmc and that might be the reason that u are having that issue

did u install any of the other cable in the time beiing so that u have maybe made a mistake there ?
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nice seeing it work for some people but its scaring me how many boards will be dead cause some people will try it this way Xd

but for goods sake please do not do this on costumers board , learn how to reball and do it the proper way.

ur damaging other peoples boards sure it might work but still.

reballing isnt that hard and when ur making money with it u really should learn how to do it the proper way ;-)
Nope i'm not installed anything beside the dat0 adapter.
I think the problem was some flux stayed on the board or under the emmc chip.

About the fan:
I was in the supermarket to buy some food and they kicked in the door and stole my fan that was on the table, plus the fcker stole my electric microscope, soldering tips, screwdriver set without the screwdriver 🤣
It's a fckin joke.
Idk these drug eaters just wanted to mess with me or they just dumb.
 
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Dee87

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Nope i'm not installed anything beside the dat0 adapter.
I think the problem was some flux stayed on the board or under the emmc chip.

About the fan:
I was in the supermarket to buy some food and they kicked in the door and stole my fan that was on the table, plus the fcker stole my electric microscope, soldering tips, screwdriver set without the screwdriver 🤣
It's a fckin joke.
Idk these drug eaters just wanted to mess with me or they just dumb.
Sounds like u need to install some cameras in the future at ur home Xd

wel if they are junkies then they probally wanted fast cash Xd

wel i mean somethign was going on what kinda flux are u using , seems like u have one that u shouldnt be using Xd
 

Ragna666

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Sounds like u need to install some cameras in the future at ur home Xd

wel if they are junkies then they probally wanted fast cash Xd

wel i mean somethign was going on what kinda flux are u using , seems like u have one that u shouldnt be using Xd
I'm using this.
 

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Blakejansen

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if u trace is broken sure ushould repair it if u want ur switched fixxed

u can use wire, repair pads or whatever u feel like its up to u
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well if its still booting to ofw then yeah that grinding didnt do any damage , u should only replace the emmc if u have destroyed the emmc. and ur only gonna get it fully recovered if u got the keys.which in ur case i guess u dont have. u can still get it runing but no nintendo services afaik.

most people replace the emmc cause they think it will be magiclly fixxed after they use those dat0 adapters they bridge dat0/1 which corrupt the emmc when the pico is trying to glitch.
but just replacing the emmc doesnt really help u need backups otherwise u wont get the switch runing fully(with nintendo services)

all u need to do is repair u emmc (afaik Boot0/1)


i dont use diode reading on my installs , i install the chip and see if it works or not.when i do my install i use a microscope and i see if something is bridging or not, so theres no need for me to use diode reading or anything else only if i have a issue but till now i never had a issue with any of my installs.

also i dont drill any holes cause i wont take the risk destroying the cusotmers board its still there board and not mine.
i Only install with permanent dat0 points.

in my opinion if i send my board to a modder and he drilles a hole in my board then thats the last time my board or anyone i know goes to that modder, cause ur damaging there board to save a few minutes instead of doing it properly.
and the only proper way to do it is by installing a perm Dat0.

it doesnt matter how often u have done it succesfully or not u still dont drill unneeded wholes in peoples property.


dat0 has afaik 500-900 depending on the emmc.
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well i dont see the reason anyway why u remove that much from the shield its not needed , now u see what u get from it if its ur board do whatever u want with it if its a customers board then u should do the least damage to the board to get the mod done period.

trace repair is not harder then doing the mod, if that kinda trace repair is harder then doing the mod then u should stop doing mods and learn how to repair traces properly if u try making money with modding.


but all this that im saying is just my opinion.

All i gotta say is stop practicing on customers board if u cant properly solder/mod they are are still paying u guys to do these mods properly and not using there boards as a guinine pig.

if its ur boards ur doing installs in do what ever u want to do

It isn't a customers switch. I don't do this for a living. Here in the US most people do this for fun which is why you get reports of bricks from America. People have the disposable income to lose $200 since a lot of people make $10,0000-$30,000 a month here. I would never do this to someone else's switch.

Trace repair I have never done before. My soldering for the mod went fine, just made big a mistake with pliers. Again, this is just a hobby for me and I don't have any ego involved.

IMG_9009.JPG



I still can't get power to the switch. Chip gets hot. I get a reading of 400 on the repaired point and the line on top that was also scratched.
 

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