So I did my first rear mosfet install on an oled and it was a bust. Used two and it was the same outcome. Has anyone else had this problem when they didn’t work on the back but worked in the normal spot?
I do back mosfet for oled all the time . v1,v2,lite i do on apu because i don't want to take more time taking all parts. 2 sides work well never have had a problem.
So um may have figured out the problem
So my new question is
How can I flash the mod chip without taking the switch apart?
Hi guys, I did my third kamikaze oled. It was working just fine but now it's not working anymore, after i left it open and unattended for a day.
It totally doesn't turn on and even the rp2040 is not turning on.
I searched for something wrong along the power rail and the usb port but everything seems fine. I also compared it to another oled.
Can it be that the dat0 trace somehow got damaged after days and that the oled doesn't even drain power if it's disconnected?
It totally doesn't turn on and even the rp2040 is not turning on.
I searched for something wrong along the power rail and the usb port but everything seems fine. I also compared it to another oled.
Can it be that the dat0 trace somehow got damaged after days and that the oled doesn't even drain power if it's disconnected?
What model is it? What chip does it have? How did you solve your "not booting" problem? Let me guess, it's an OLED and it started magically working again?
Depending on the chip version, if it's RP2040-zero or RP2040-tiny it can be flashed with picotool by booting it through Hekate, but why do you want to do it in the first place?
If you continue with problems, just sent it back to the shop, it's their responsibility if the console is not working properly.
Last edited by Phantomas77,
I tried to install an Instinct NX V6 on an OLED, but no matter what I do it just won't work. Well, one Seeed Studio's Xiao RP2040 chip ordered from Amazon and a day later.
I had to add a 100R resistor to the D0 line after initial startup because SYSMMC booting didn't work. And also cut a hole in the metal shielding because I was too lazy to remove the type-c port. And had to order some generic wireless antenna because I broke the left one and will have to wait until it arrives.
That's what I feared. I've seen videos where the M92 tests fine but is still faulty, so maybe that's the culprit. Or maybe sole other weird short on the RST line, but that one is testing fine too. I'm pretty confused lol
Hello everyone on the forum.
I received picofly (to Lite) the other day. I started working on it right after that, but I failed because I didn't have the micro soldering skills. Space is very limited around DAT0 and it was a time of patience. Fortunately, this Switch Lite will start up in OFW, so I plan to collect more information and try again.
So I have a question for you all.
There is some advice that I often come across when gathering information on forums. "Use a good tip and solder"
There was no specific product name written there.
Could you please tell me the tip and solder you are using? Also, do you think I should use solder containing lead?
I'm currently working with equipment like this.
Any advice would be appreciated. thank you!
Soldering iron: HAKKO FX-600
Iron tip: T18-BR02/T18-S4
Solder: Oyaide SS-47
I received picofly (to Lite) the other day. I started working on it right after that, but I failed because I didn't have the micro soldering skills. Space is very limited around DAT0 and it was a time of patience. Fortunately, this Switch Lite will start up in OFW, so I plan to collect more information and try again.
So I have a question for you all.
There is some advice that I often come across when gathering information on forums. "Use a good tip and solder"
There was no specific product name written there.
Could you please tell me the tip and solder you are using? Also, do you think I should use solder containing lead?
I'm currently working with equipment like this.
Any advice would be appreciated. thank you!
Soldering iron: HAKKO FX-600
Iron tip: T18-BR02/T18-S4
Solder: Oyaide SS-47
Switch OLED, and the chip is hwfly, and the issue is I can't boot into either hekate or stock at all, even after holding the down the power button.
the led light flashes red for a second then goes off
Well, I used a Pinecil V2 with the TS-D24 Tip set at 250C. As for the Solder itself, I just use a non-brand 60/40. These work well enough when installing a picofly on the OLED.
Do you use any flux?
You're in a wrong thread, this one is dedicated to Picofly RP2040 Waveshare models, different from what you have.
Nontheless, in your case I could blindly bet that you have problems with DAT0 connection (since it previously worked and now it's not) and the dude who made this install used an adapter. If it's the case, best solution would be to perform eMMC reball for permanent (wire) connection. Send it back to the installer, if he/she's a serious person, he/she should fix it.
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No, in the case of a Switch that won't be a problem.
Even with measuring with the diode mode, only 2V will be used and a few milliamps.
All components can handle that, even wrongly applied.
Post automatically merged:
Well, I can image that the first time you get yourself some nice thermal compound, you don't want to hold back.
Did you charge extra for cleaning up that mess?
We should open up a dedicated thread for mentioning these kind of perversions in electronic repair adventures.
There's a whole bunch of these 'repair' pictures floating around here on gbatemp.
Let me see if I can somehow browse through all the pictures on gbatemp instead of the messages.
Last edited by thesjaakspoiler,
Hello.
My Switch Lite is also having the same symptoms. I always get the error LED "=* D0 is not connected". I fixed all the solder points including DAD0, but the error did not go away. After blinking, it will start in OFW.
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IN my case the problem was one of my solders on the picofly chip (the one with the resistors) that was touching the metal part that protects the CPU, because my double-sided tape that I used to stick the RP2040 (picofly) was shit. She left the place and exposed the solders causing the chip to short out...
no I didn’t but damn was it all over the place.
Threw a pico in it and it’s all good.
Post automatically merged:
Post your work. Are you sure your DAT0 is connected to the right spot? On the lite they’re kind of all close to other points.
Same problem. But not go ofw it go black secreen and yellow light blinking after blue. See clk. And dat0 point.no I didn’t but damn was it all over the place.
Post automatically merged:
Post your work. Are you sure your DAT0 is connected to the right spot? On the lite they’re kind of all close to other points.
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