Picofly AIO Thread

[QuiTim]

Thats one possible cause, either way you need to contact your installer to have it check and fix.

=== Warning DANGER ahead ==
Or maybe if you brave enough you can try to drop it again? in a controlled way of course, or you can try to cool the unit by putting in on a refrigerator.
Please dont follow above suggestion if you are still not on desperate mode.

@StrmSrg as a test only, you could try cgtchyw0412 suggestion. A friend of mine has one Oled wirh hwfly/dat0 and from time to time it does not boot to cfw but he just turns it off and "slaps it back to submission" by giving it a hard tap right above the sd card.
But in the end you need to have someone fix it permanently because this way something will be damaged sooner or later

 

[Crung]

There are so many confusing informations out there about oleds. Personally i havent engaged with them yet because im kind of scared of future problems. Some people say that they reflow with the dat0 adapter and it works without future problems, some people say that once you do that you ll get cracked solder in the future. Or if you dont reflow at all it will oxidixe

 

[RedFawkes]

There are so many confusing informations out there about oleds. Personally i havent engaged with them yet because im kind of scared of future problems. Some people say that they reflow with the dat0 adapter and it works without future problems, some people say that once you do that you ll get cracked solder in the future. Or if you dont reflow at all it will oxidixe

Hi Crung, if you haven't done an OLED yet just reball from the start. Don't go down the adapter route..
It's got to be a lot less stress than all the problems with DAT0 adapters we keep seeing here.
On Amazon (UK at least) I can see hot air rework stations going for between £50-£100. Consider it an investment.

Also, unless you've got the beady eyes of a shithouse rat you'll probably need a microscope. This isn't the one I use but you could probably get away with this as the cheapest option I could find:
https://amscope.co.uk/collections/s...pection-microscope-on-rotatable-gooseneck-arm

I can say from experience that the EMMC chip and the Switch PCB will take a huge amount of heat and will just keep smiling back at you.
To melt the factory installed unleaded solder balls you'll need to get the chip up to around 220C. (This is more than high enough to pan fry a steak). As long as you research the process and aren't impatient this kind of temperature really isn't dangerous. The materials in question are designed for this kind of heat. You also won't damage the data on the chip either.

Reball with unleaded solder. I know there are easier ways but I place pre-formed solder balls on the pads (covered with a thin layer of flux) using a sewing needle. I usually do about 10 at a time so It's easier to see if any of them move and then gently warm them up until they melt onto their spots.

The above steps are just one solution. There are many others but I think this is the cheapest. No stencils or solder paste etc.
Also, for under £20 on eBay you could buy a blank BGA153 chip that's identical to the Switch EMMC to practice reballing on.

For the rest of the steps you can see Sthetix's video here:


Here's some pictures of one I did last weekend (in random order probably)...

 

[LogicalMadness]

I paid to have a picofly installed on my oled switch in May and it's been working pretty alright. Though, since a month ago, it would sometimes boot into OFW instead of hekate when I turned it on. Today, it simply refuses to boot into hekate and just boots straight to OFW. When I remove the sd card and boot it up, it doesn't go to the "Please insert SD card" screen and just goes to OFW. Is this some dead giveaway for a specific thing gone wrong? It worked for several weeks and now doesn't.

I know that there is an LED light to diagnose the problem, but I've never opened up a switch before. Before I try to open it myself, I thought I should ask if the thing most likely to be wrong would be relatively easy or difficult to fix. Full Transparency: I've heard that physically dropping the switch can mess with some aspect of the mod chip, and I did drop it the day before it would only boot to OFW. Don't know if that helps with diagnosing.

You paid for the mod, just send it back to them. Either dat0 or clk has come loose

 

[CorvusCorax]

Hey everyone. I'm installing a PicoFly (HwFly RP2040, as they call it) in my second Switch Lite. I'm using flex cables. The issue is that sometimes it needs 5 seconds and sometimes maybe the whole minute to glitch it. After it's glitched (it always glitches, only the time is an issue), everything works fine.

I tried to reset the chip using the PicoFly toolbox. But nothing changed.

This is my second Lite and in both cases the glitching is unpredictable and takes time.

What could be wrong? Any advice on what to check and do?

Thanks!

 

[cgtchy0412]

Hey everyone. I'm installing a PicoFly (HwFly RP2040, as they call it) in my second Switch Lite. I'm using flex cables. The issue is that sometimes it needs 5 seconds and sometimes maybe the whole minute to glitch it. After it's glitched (it always glitches, only the time is an issue), everything works fine.

I tried to reset the chip using the PicoFly toolbox. But nothing changed.

This is my second Lite and in both cases the glitching is unpredictable and takes time.

What could be wrong? Any advice on what to check and do?

Thanks!

This is normal but very rare, happens on some units. There nothing you can do about it except you switch it with another switch (pun intended).
Just be patient and dont reset/turnoff the unit very often. Even my kids V2 is never been turnoff in about three months lol.

 

[cucholix]

What’s the exact dimensions of Picofly RP2040 chip?

 

[jkyoho]

 

[Dee87]

What’s the exact dimensions of Picofly RP2040 chip?

if ur buying new i would recommend the rp2040 tiny

 

[cucholix]

if ur buying new i would recommend the rp2040 tiny

Have a link?

 

[Dee87]

Have a link?

ClickMe

 

[xenneco]

Pagué para tener un picofly instalado en mi interruptor oled en mayo y ha estado funcionando bastante bien. Aunque, desde hace un mes, a veces arrancaba en OFW en lugar de hekate cuando lo encendía. Hoy, simplemente se niega a iniciar en hekate y simplemente inicia directamente en OFW. Cuando quito la tarjeta SD y la enciendo, no va a la pantalla "Por favor, inserte la tarjeta SD" y solo va a OFW. ¿Es esto un claro indicativo de que algo específico salió mal? Funcionó durante varias semanas y ahora no.

Sé que hay una luz LED para diagnosticar el problema, pero nunca antes había abierto un interruptor. Antes de intentar abrirlo yo mismo, pensé que debería preguntar si lo más probable que esté mal sería relativamente fácil o difícil de arreglar. Transparencia total: Escuché que dejar caer físicamente el interruptor puede alterar algún aspecto del chip mod, y lo dejé caer el día anterior, solo arrancaría en OFW. No sé si eso ayuda con el diagnóstico.

Hola, tengo exactamente el mismo problema. A veces, cuando apago la consola y la vuelvo a encender, Hekate no se carga y el OFW se carga directamente.
No he encontrado solución a esto, solo apago y enciendo varias veces hasta que una de ellas logra cargar el Hekate.
Es un poco frustrante y confuso, porque no entiendo que es y me preocupa que pueda dañar la consola o que en algún momento apago, no se vuelve a encender en Hekate...

EDIT: After several hours of research I think it has been solved. The problem was with the Picofly firmware, it had version 2.74, which has errors and was removed by its author... I was able to go back to version 2.73 and for now it seems that the problem has been solved

 

[Corwin13]

Hi guys! Was getting rid of usb port and buttons on rp2040, did i blew off some resistor/whatever that is? Circled in red, second element on elements row just under the usb port pins. Is it ok, or do i need a new board now?

 

[Dee87]

Hi guys! Was getting rid of usb port and buttons on rp2040, did i blew off some resistor/whatewer that is? Circled in red, second element on elements row just under the usb port pins. Is it ok, or do i need a new board now?

your fine there is nothing on that spot ;-)

 

[jkyoho]

for those who has picofly NO SDCARD successful shows but after (volumn +&-) holding together you have Ninty (1st logo)then Black screen, You will need a 100ohm resistor instead of 47 ohm on DAT0 line.
long story below:

Spoiler

I just did a v2 with samsung eMMC with rp2040-tiny this afternoon, it was 3x 47ohm came with this rp2040tiny rev1.1, I saw the initial glitching and then NO sdcard LOGO so I close up, but then releaize cant go to ofw by holding vol+&-, it gave me black screen after 1st logo. Then put in HEKATE and check emmc info, list looks good, didn't do benchmark test though, I then replace to dat0 with 100ohm, and OFW goes in back to normal.

 

[Dee87]

for those who has picofly NO SDCARD successful shows but after (volumn +&-) holding together you have Ninty (1st logo)then Black screen, You will need a 100ohm resistor instead of 47 ohm on DAT0 line.
long story below:

Spoiler

I just did a v2 with samsung eMMC with rp2040-tiny this afternoon, it was 3x 47ohm came with this rp2040tiny rev1.1, I saw the initial glitching and then NO sdcard LOGO so I close up, but then releaize cant go to ofw by holding vol+&-, it gave me black screen after 1st logo. Then put in HEKATE and check emmc info, list looks good, didn't do benchmark test though, I then replace to dat0 with 100ohm, and OFW goes in back to normal.

So true , since specially the totk versions with samsung emmcs I have encountered that issue
I had to use them on quite a few installs.
That's why I now only install with 100 ohm on Dat0 and Cmd since then I never had an issue since again.

If u do benchmark ull see pretty fast that its a slow emmc issue.

I also did have to do that at the beginning on a few V2 not sure what emmc but they where probaly also Samsung's.

 

[jkyoho]

So true , since specially the totk versions with samsung emmcs I have encountered that issue
I had to use them on quite a few installs.
That's why I now only install with 100 ohm on Dat0 and Cmd since then I never had an issue since again.

If u do benchmark ull see pretty fast that its a slow emmc issue.

I also did have to do that at the beginning on a few V2 not sure what emmc but they where probaly also Samsung's.

I wish having samsung eMMC rather than SK hynix ticking bomb

 

[Crung]

Hi Crung, if you haven't done an OLED yet just reball from the start. Don't go down the adapter route..
It's got to be a lot less stress than all the problems with DAT0 adapters we keep seeing here.
On Amazon (UK at least) I can see hot air rework stations going for between £50-£100. Consider it an investment.

Also, unless you've got the beady eyes of a shithouse rat you'll probably need a microscope. This isn't the one I use but you could probably get away with this as the cheapest option I could find:
https://amscope.co.uk/collections/s...pection-microscope-on-rotatable-gooseneck-arm

I can say from experience that the EMMC chip and the Switch PCB will take a huge amount of heat and will just keep smiling back at you.
To melt the factory installed unleaded solder balls you'll need to get the chip up to around 220C. (This is more than high enough to pan fry a steak). As long as you research the process and aren't impatient this kind of temperature really isn't dangerous. The materials in question are designed for this kind of heat. You also won't damage the data on the chip either.

Reball with unleaded solder. I know there are easier ways but I place pre-formed solder balls on the pads (covered with a thin layer of flux) using a sewing needle. I usually do about 10 at a time so It's easier to see if any of them move and then gently warm them up until they melt onto their spots.

The above steps are just one solution. There are many others but I think this is the cheapest. No stencils or solder paste etc.
Also, for under £20 on eBay you could buy a blank BGA153 chip that's identical to the Switch EMMC to practice reballing on.

For the rest of the steps you can see Sthetix's video here:


Here's some pictures of one I did last weekend (in random order probably)...

I see. But would sticking an adapter into the dat0 connection and heating the chip so it melts the solder,be the same? This path looks way more easy and esentially creates the same outcome no?
Yes, i have never done an oled yet. I ve been staying away from it because i was afraid that after couple of months , customers will have problems with them.
Also about the microscope, we did talk before about my equipment,probably you dont remember. I was using a friend s stereo microscope wich was pretty good but im really considering buying a digital one right now. I know that stereo ones have better depth quality but when i use those i get back pain. I ve been looking a lot at 2 youtubers who fix nintendos, video cards, laptops etc etc and it looks very comfortable sitting on the back of the chair and looking at the board through a monitor.
I want to get into nintendo switch repair and video card repairs. They look really "fun" *screaming intensifies*

 

[RedFawkes]

I see. But would sticking an adapter into the dat0 connection and heating the chip so it melts the solder,be the same? This path looks way more easy and esentially creates the same outcome no?
Yes, i have never done an oled yet. I ve been staying away from it because i was afraid that after couple of months , customers will have problems with them.
Also about the microscope, we did talk before about my equipment,probably you dont remember. I was using a friend s stereo microscope wich was pretty good but im really considering buying a digital one right now. I know that stereo ones have better depth quality but when i use those i get back pain. I ve been looking a lot at 2 youtubers who fix nintendos, video cards, laptops etc etc and it looks very comfortable sitting on the back of the chair and looking at the board through a monitor.
I want to get into nintendo switch repair and video card repairs. They look really "fun" *screaming intensifies*

I can't really speak from experience as don't use the adapters, but I've seen a video from the TV Parts World guy on YouTube where he stated that reflowing to connect the adapter will eventually lead to less reliability than simply pressing the adapter up against the DAT0 point.

 

[Dee87]

I wish having samsung eMMC rather than SK hynix ticking bomb

Never had issues with Skhynix so far , are they known to die after a while ?
Well at least if they die one day the people at least can fix there consoles now after replacing the emmc with there back up