Purple/pink screen OLED after HWFLY install

[Ganesha0112]

Hello everyone, I install a HWFLY v4 on my switch oled and I’m sure than everything it’s soldered correctly, but when I finish the installation and turns on the switch the HWFLY led blinks on purple some minutes and then blinks red fast and then the screen of the switch turns purple/pink and starts turning on and off I don’t know what this happen but anyone know what I can do to resolve this problem?

 

[x3n0]

https://switchbrew.org/wiki/Panic_codes

Here you can find the meaning of the different screen colors. I can't help you with the hwfly.

 

[Phantomas77]

Does the Switch boot into OFW with disabled chip (if you desolder +3.3V wire)? If so, reconnect the +3.3V cable, connect the chip via USB adapter to use PC, log into the chip through SSH program (Putty or similar) by connecting to the same COM port that your chip is detected by the PC. Run reset command by pressing "R" and later run diagnostics ("D"). This should give you some output of the chip behavior.

Does the chip has stock FW or did you update it?

 

[Ganesha0112]

Does the Switch boot into OFW with disabled chip (if you desolder +3.3V wire)? If so, reconnect the +3.3V cable, connect the chip via USB adapter to use PC, log into the chip through SSH program (Putty or similar) by connecting to the same COM port that your chip is detected by the PC. Run reset command by pressing "R" and later run diagnostics ("D"). This should give you some output of the chip behavior.

Does the chip has stock FW or did you update it?

Thanks for the answer, no, the switch it’s no more turning on, when I remove the chip and remove every cable the switch just turn on whit the purple screen, the CHIP is in the OFW but I think the chip it’s already bricked cause when I connect in the computer the computer didn’t recognize and the led just flashing on purple

 

[kylum]

Take some high res pics of the cpu resistors. I suspect that is where your problem could potentially be!

 

[Ganesha0112]

Take some high res pics of the cpu resistors. I suspect that is where your problem could potentially be!

Sorry, that’s all my cellphone can make zoom and focus

 

[Nagaa]

If you get purple screen when booting without the chip, the resistor on cmd point is probably dead

 

[kylum]

Sorry, that’s all my cellphone can make zoom and focus

Yeah, can’t see much in those pics. Make sure there isn’t bridging or any resistors or lifted on one side. Sp1 resistor and the one next to it looks a little iffy but can’t tell for sure. As @Nagaa stated one of them could be toast as well.

 

[Ganesha0112]

If you get purple screen when booting without the chip, the resistor on cmd point is probably dead

I read that resistor had 4.7k valor, you know if in the normal switch motherboard it’s a resistor with that value?

 

[kylum]

Not sure of the value but you may also want to check the A point. SP1 and SP2 are actually capacitors and not resistors so you would have to remove from circuit to get proper uF readings.

 

[Phantomas77]

Well, I'm not sure regarding the CMD resistor value, but once I saw on youtube that a 4.7kOhm worked, though check on this post to see if there's more info.

Before moving on with a replacement, see if you get any resistance reading of the CMD point, and ensure that the other components are OK as suggested before:

• use a multimeter and perform reading in diode mode (black probe on GND) for the SP1 and SP2 caps, starting from the left side, you should be getting values inside this range:
  • SP1 --> 0 17.9 Ohm
  • SP2 --> 18.3 Ohm 0
• ensure that there's no short between the CLK point and GND, since in the picture it seems that the ground solder mask nearby the CLK point was removed.
• remove the DAT0 adapter if you did not reflow it.
• Clean everything with IPA.
  

Good luck!

 

[Ganesha0112]

Yeah, can’t see much in those pics. Make sure there isn’t bridging or any resistors or lifted on one side. Sp1 resistor and the one next to it looks a little iffy but can’t tell for sure. As @Nagaa stated one of them could be toast as well.

Nothing wrong in the APU, all resistors are in his place, I think it’s the CMD resistor but idk why the resistor just died, I didn’t nothing wrong, actually I have some experience on micro soldering maybe the chip come faulty or something. Sadly I don't have a donor board or a replacement I need find one on the switch lite or normal switch board to make sure if it’s the problem.

 

[Nagaa]

I read that resistor had 4.7k valor, you know if in the normal switch motherboard it’s a resistor with that value?

If i remember correctly i can't find the picture anymore but the 3rd resistor on top of the BQ chip on a normal switch can be used

Not sure of the value but you may also want to check the A point. SP1 and SP2 are actually capacitors and not resistors so you would have to remove from circuit to get proper uF readings.

From experience SP1 and SP2 doesn't cause purple screen, the switch will still work fine without them

 

[kylum]

CMD/A point should be somewhere between .550 and .830 in diode mode.
@Nagaa you are correct does not cause purple screen! It’s been a min since I’ve done any switch repairs. My bad!!

Post automatically merged: Jan 22, 2023

That resistor is 3.5Kohm. I knocked it off myself and lost it. sthetix got the value for me from his working board.

Though the same thread says it 4.7k ohm!?!

 

[Ganesha0112]

Not sure of the value but you may also want to check the A point. SP1 and SP2 are actually capacitors and not resistors so you would have to remove from circuit to get proper uF readings.

Here are some pictures of the APU and CMD cap, everything looks fine.

 

[kylum]

Here are some pictures of the APU and CMD cap, everything looks fine.

It shouldn’t have anything to do with the APU. My apologies for that as I was got a little confused for a min. You check resistance of the cmd point? Also in diode mode? It could be dead?!?

What side of the cmd resistor did you solder the wire to? The pic shows extra solder on the opposite side. Not sure if it’s just the photo so I gotta ask!

 

[Ganesha0112]

It shouldn’t have anything to do with the APU. My apologies for that as I was got a little confused for a min. You check resistance of the cmd point? Also in diode mode? It could be dead?!?

What side of the cmd resistor did you solder the wire to? The pic shows extra solder on the opposite side. Not sure if it’s just the photo so I gotta ask!

View attachment 348938

I check th valor of the CMD resistor and gives me 4.66 in diode mode 20k.

And I soldered in the bottom side of the ressitor I don’t know how that solder got on that place maybe when I remove everything

Post automatically merged: Jan 23, 2023

I check th valor of the CMD resistor and gives me 4.66 in diode mode 20k.

And I soldered in the bottom side of the ressitor I don’t know how that solder got on that place maybe when I remove everything

Well, the switch just turn on randomly, idk why, that happen after make the diagnostic of the resistance, weird

 

[Nagaa]

I check th valor of the CMD resistor and gives me 4.66 in diode mode 20k.

And I soldered in the bottom side of the ressitor I don’t know how that solder got on that place maybe when I remove everything

Post automatically merged: Jan 23, 2023

Well, the switch just turn on randomly, idk why, that happen after make the diagnostic of the resistance, weird

replace it, if you have a normal switch motherboard u can take it from it

 

[Phantomas77]

You can use a different resistance package, like 0402 or even bigger, and connecting it with wire. The important thing is to use the same resistance value.

 

[kylum]

Hmm! Yeah I would probably replace it then as already suggested! Verified it’s soldered properly at a minimum. Either way I’m glad it’s turning on now.

FYI, when testing in diode mode the multimeter would not show a “k” value. It’s testing a voltage drop to ground so it should show voltage. Around .550 V to .800 V. You must have been in resistance mode still. Also you test with red prob on ground