Correct, colors dont matter anymore, now the codes are in pulses (like morse)Thank you I bridged the user mode point but it is still flashing green. But I assume since I am using 2.73 it is not required?
Correct, colors dont matter anymore, now the codes are in pulses (like morse)Thank you I bridged the user mode point but it is still flashing green. But I assume since I am using 2.73 it is not required?
motherboard have problem, i buyyou are using sysmmc or emummc ? also what switch firmware is based on 16.0.3 or 16.1.0 ?
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i believe you can find some picture somewhere in this thread, its either traces are cut or via are destroyed.
I bought the board on Aliexpress, it crashes a lot without Picofly and the error 2001-0114 and 2001-3539 appears a lotyou are using sysmmc or emummc ? also what switch firmware is based on 16.0.3 or 16.1.0 ?
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i believe you can find some picture somewhere in this thread, its either traces are cut or via are destroyed.
Post some pics of your install. Out of the top of my head I would say the pico touched the metal shield and shorted somewhere, but without pics that's hard to confirm. Maybe the solder you aplied poked through the capton tape or whatever you used for insulation, but this is just speculation.Today I got a problem that my friend's switch could not power on. After measuring I realized that it had a short on 3.3v and ground, a caps on picofly died. Remove the picofly and switch boot again. Anyone know which caused that caps shorted?
Not caps. Usually 3.3v regulator dies when working with external power, that is why it is recommended to remove itToday I got a problem that my friend's switch could not power on. After measuring I realized that it had a short on 3.3v and ground, a caps on picofly died. Remove the picofly and switch boot again. Anyone know which caused that caps shorted?
ok, removed the SRAM powerdown, pls try itI kind of fixed that part, and the slow emmc problem disappeared.
Firmware is good, tested, safe to upgrade i think.Hi @abal1000x , just to inform that i have 2 oled unit that throw dat0 error when using 100ohm.. i replace it with 47ohm and its boots. So this resistor value is still not universal for all cases.
Will try 2.75 to see if slow issue and sleep battery drain is better.
Are you using the new rp2040 tiny? it happened to two of FXDX's installs. he added additional 47ohm on dat0 and they would not boot, but booted fine when he removed them.Hi @abal1000x , just to inform that i have 2 oled unit that throw dat0 error when using 100ohm.. i replace it with 47ohm and its boots. So this resistor value is still not universal for all cases.
Will try 2.75 to see if slow issue and sleep battery drain is better.
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Firmware is good, tested, safe to upgrade i think.
Seems like CMD/DAT0/CLK issue.@abal1000x, I did my second installation using the alternative method of the mosphet on the back of the board on a switch lite (2002), but I am experiencing very long boot times. Basically like this:
- blinks blue 2 to 8 seconds then white ==> boots hekate.
- sometime blinks blue 10 to 25 seconds then white ==> black screen or boots OFW.
- if there is a black screen, and press power again: it boots hekate.
In this case, would it be more appropriate to redo the installation on the CPU capacitors directly? using two mosfets? Can I just cut the MOSFET cable on the back of the board to make it unusable, without having to desolder the rear capacitor cables?
Did the update solve that problem?Hi @abal1000x , just to inform that i have 2 oled unit that throw dat0 error when using 100ohm.. i replace it with 47ohm and its boots. So this resistor value is still not universal for all cases.
Will try 2.75 to see if slow issue and sleep battery drain is better.
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Firmware is good, tested, safe to upgrade i think.
Not caps. Usually 3.3v regulator dies when working with external power, that is why it is recommended to remove it
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Not sure yet. But both unit are now using 47.. with new firmware they dont raise slow emmc warning at least.Did the update solve that problem?
Just as what i am suspecting. Hopefully this will fixed any 'slow emmc' stuff. Logically it should, except if some other unknown scenario happenedNot sure yet. But both unit are now using 47.. with new firmware they dont raise slow emmc warning at least.
No .. im using green Pi Pico. Maybe with 100ohm dat0 the voltage is on the low side of firmware check so it throws error, as maybe if there is no check inplace it woild boot.. just maybe.Are you using the new rp2040 tiny? it happened to two of FXDX's installs. he added additional 47ohm on dat0 and they would not boot, but booted fine when he removed them.
At least now its safe to know that pico will go to lowest power mode after glitch.Just as what i am suspecting. Hopefully this will fixed any 'slow emmc' stuff. Logically it should, except if some other unknown scenario happened
Let us now whether that will improve glicth time or not, as I suspect it wouldnt.@abal1000x, I did my second installation using the alternative method of the mosphet on the back of the board on a switch lite (2002), but I am experiencing very long boot times. Basically like this:
- blinks blue 2 to 8 seconds then white ==> boots hekate.
- sometime blinks blue 10 to 25 seconds then white ==> black screen or boots OFW.
- if there is a black screen, and press power again: it boots hekate.
In this case, would it be more appropriate to redo the installation on the CPU capacitors directly? using two mosfets? Can I just cut the MOSFET cable on the back of the board to make it unusable, without having to desolder the rear capacitor cables?
Apparently you're going to need a transparent shell in order to see leds on the switch liteHi everyone, when installing hwfly picofly rp2040 based on switch lite,
we cannot see the led indicator when backplate is putting back since the chip is located at the left of the CPU..
Any idea or solution to be able to see the led indicator on switch lites ?
Hi everyone, when installing hwfly picofly rp2040 based on switch lite,
we cannot see the led indicator when backplate is putting back since the chip is located at the left of the CPU..
Any idea or solution to be able to see the led indicator on switch lites ?
If on top of emmc area, you still can see through game cartridge slotHi everyone, when installing hwfly picofly rp2040 based on switch lite,
we cannot see the led indicator when backplate is putting back since the chip is located at the left of the CPU..
Any idea or solution to be able to see the led indicator on switch lites ?
A polysh pen
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Back side done