Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

aleciobr

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you are using sysmmc or emummc ? also what switch firmware is based on 16.0.3 or 16.1.0 ?
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i believe you can find some picture somewhere in this thread, its either traces are cut or via are destroyed.
motherboard have problem, i buy
you are using sysmmc or emummc ? also what switch firmware is based on 16.0.3 or 16.1.0 ?
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i believe you can find some picture somewhere in this thread, its either traces are cut or via are destroyed.
I bought the board on Aliexpress, it crashes a lot without Picofly and the error 2001-0114 and 2001-3539 appears a lot
 

haipro287

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Today I got a problem that my friend's switch could not power on. After measuring I realized that it had a short on 3.3v and ground, a caps on picofly died. Remove the picofly and switch boot again. Anyone know which caused that caps shorted? 🧐
 

twins333

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Today I got a problem that my friend's switch could not power on. After measuring I realized that it had a short on 3.3v and ground, a caps on picofly died. Remove the picofly and switch boot again. Anyone know which caused that caps shorted? 🧐
Post some pics of your install. Out of the top of my head I would say the pico touched the metal shield and shorted somewhere, but without pics that's hard to confirm. Maybe the solder you aplied poked through the capton tape or whatever you used for insulation, but this is just speculation.
 

rehius

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Today I got a problem that my friend's switch could not power on. After measuring I realized that it had a short on 3.3v and ground, a caps on picofly died. Remove the picofly and switch boot again. Anyone know which caused that caps shorted? 🧐
Not caps. Usually 3.3v regulator dies when working with external power, that is why it is recommended to remove it
Post automatically merged:

I kind of fixed that part, and the slow emmc problem disappeared.
ok, removed the SRAM powerdown, pls try it
 
Last edited by rehius,

cgtchy0412

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Hi @abal1000x , just to inform that i have 2 oled unit that throw dat0 error when using 100ohm.. i replace it with 47ohm and its boots. So this resistor value is still not universal for all cases.

Will try 2.75 to see if slow issue and sleep battery drain is better.
Post automatically merged:

Hi @abal1000x , just to inform that i have 2 oled unit that throw dat0 error when using 100ohm.. i replace it with 47ohm and its boots. So this resistor value is still not universal for all cases.

Will try 2.75 to see if slow issue and sleep battery drain is better.
Firmware is good, tested, safe to upgrade i think.
 
Last edited by cgtchy0412,

Mr Skinner

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@abal1000x, I did my second installation using the alternative method of the mosphet on the back of the board on a switch lite (2002), but I am experiencing very long boot times. Basically like this:
- blinks blue 2 to 8 seconds then white ==> boots hekate.
- sometime blinks blue 10 to 25 seconds then white ==> black screen or boots OFW.
- if there is a black screen, and press power again: it boots hekate.

In this case, would it be more appropriate to redo the installation on the CPU capacitors directly? using two mosfets? Can I just cut the MOSFET cable on the back of the board to make it unusable, without having to desolder the rear capacitor cables?
 

twins333

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Hi @abal1000x , just to inform that i have 2 oled unit that throw dat0 error when using 100ohm.. i replace it with 47ohm and its boots. So this resistor value is still not universal for all cases.

Will try 2.75 to see if slow issue and sleep battery drain is better.
Post automatically merged:


Firmware is good, tested, safe to upgrade i think.
Are you using the new rp2040 tiny? it happened to two of FXDX's installs. he added additional 47ohm on dat0 and they would not boot, but booted fine when he removed them.
 

abal1000x

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@abal1000x, I did my second installation using the alternative method of the mosphet on the back of the board on a switch lite (2002), but I am experiencing very long boot times. Basically like this:
- blinks blue 2 to 8 seconds then white ==> boots hekate.
- sometime blinks blue 10 to 25 seconds then white ==> black screen or boots OFW.
- if there is a black screen, and press power again: it boots hekate.

In this case, would it be more appropriate to redo the installation on the CPU capacitors directly? using two mosfets? Can I just cut the MOSFET cable on the back of the board to make it unusable, without having to desolder the rear capacitor cables?
Seems like CMD/DAT0/CLK issue.

If you decide to redo without removing the mosfet, cut the gate line is enough, but to be safe add resistor (pulldown) on the gate to gnd, to make sure there are no charge accumulated in there.
Post automatically merged:

Hi @abal1000x , just to inform that i have 2 oled unit that throw dat0 error when using 100ohm.. i replace it with 47ohm and its boots. So this resistor value is still not universal for all cases.

Will try 2.75 to see if slow issue and sleep battery drain is better.
Post automatically merged:


Firmware is good, tested, safe to upgrade i think.
Did the update solve that problem?
 

haipro287

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I always remove 3.3v regulator when installing picofly. The short on rp2040 board is gone after I removed the bad caps.
Post automatically merged:

Not caps. Usually 3.3v regulator dies when working with external power, that is why it is recommended to remove it
Post automatically merged:
 

cgtchy0412

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Are you using the new rp2040 tiny? it happened to two of FXDX's installs. he added additional 47ohm on dat0 and they would not boot, but booted fine when he removed them.
No .. im using green Pi Pico. Maybe with 100ohm dat0 the voltage is on the low side of firmware check so it throws error, as maybe if there is no check inplace it woild boot.. just maybe.
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Just as what i am suspecting. Hopefully this will fixed any 'slow emmc' stuff. Logically it should, except if some other unknown scenario happened :rofl2:
At least now its safe to know that pico will go to lowest power mode after glitch.
Post automatically merged:

@abal1000x, I did my second installation using the alternative method of the mosphet on the back of the board on a switch lite (2002), but I am experiencing very long boot times. Basically like this:
- blinks blue 2 to 8 seconds then white ==> boots hekate.
- sometime blinks blue 10 to 25 seconds then white ==> black screen or boots OFW.
- if there is a black screen, and press power again: it boots hekate.

In this case, would it be more appropriate to redo the installation on the CPU capacitors directly? using two mosfets? Can I just cut the MOSFET cable on the back of the board to make it unusable, without having to desolder the rear capacitor cables?
Let us now whether that will improve glicth time or not, as I suspect it wouldnt.
 
Last edited by cgtchy0412,

Danook28

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My customer and mine collection mod console chip mod
1 _v2 console
6_v1 console
3_oled console
2_lite console
So meny software mod up 30 console..

Love pico fly... Family
 

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linkref

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Hi everyone, when installing hwfly picofly rp2040 based on switch lite,
we cannot see the led indicator when backplate is putting back since the chip is located at the left of the CPU..

Any idea or solution to be able to see the led indicator on switch lites ?
 
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Hassal

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Hi everyone, when installing hwfly picofly rp2040 based on switch lite,
we cannot see the led indicator when backplate is putting back since the chip is located at the left of the CPU..

Any idea or solution to be able to see the led indicator on switch lites ?
Apparently you're going to need a transparent shell in order to see leds on the switch lite
 
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deeps

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Hi everyone, when installing hwfly picofly rp2040 based on switch lite,
we cannot see the led indicator when backplate is putting back since the chip is located at the left of the CPU..

Any idea or solution to be able to see the led indicator on switch lites ?
 

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jkyoho

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Hi everyone, when installing hwfly picofly rp2040 based on switch lite,
we cannot see the led indicator when backplate is putting back since the chip is located at the left of the CPU..

Any idea or solution to be able to see the led indicator on switch lites ?
If on top of emmc area, you still can see through game cartridge slot
 

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