Correct, colors dont matter anymore, now the codes are in pulses (like morse)
motherboard have problem, i buy
I bought the board on Aliexpress, it crashes a lot without Picofly and the error 2001-0114 and 2001-3539 appears a lot
Today I got a problem that my friend's switch could not power on. After measuring I realized that it had a short on 3.3v and ground, a caps on picofly died. Remove the picofly and switch boot again. Anyone know which caused that caps shorted? 
Post some pics of your install. Out of the top of my head I would say the pico touched the metal shield and shorted somewhere, but without pics that's hard to confirm. Maybe the solder you aplied poked through the capton tape or whatever you used for insulation, but this is just speculation.Today I got a problem that my friend's switch could not power on. After measuring I realized that it had a short on 3.3v and ground, a caps on picofly died. Remove the picofly and switch boot again. Anyone know which caused that caps shorted?
Not caps. Usually 3.3v regulator dies when working with external power, that is why it is recommended to remove itToday I got a problem that my friend's switch could not power on. After measuring I realized that it had a short on 3.3v and ground, a caps on picofly died. Remove the picofly and switch boot again. Anyone know which caused that caps shorted?
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ok, removed the SRAM powerdown, pls try it
Last edited by rehius,
Hi @abal1000x , just to inform that i have 2 oled unit that throw dat0 error when using 100ohm.. i replace it with 47ohm and its boots. So this resistor value is still not universal for all cases.
Will try 2.75 to see if slow issue and sleep battery drain is better.
Will try 2.75 to see if slow issue and sleep battery drain is better.
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Firmware is good, tested, safe to upgrade i think.
Last edited by cgtchy0412,
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@abal1000x, I did my second installation using the alternative method of the mosphet on the back of the board on a switch lite (2002), but I am experiencing very long boot times. Basically like this:
- blinks blue 2 to 8 seconds then white ==> boots hekate.
- sometime blinks blue 10 to 25 seconds then white ==> black screen or boots OFW.
- if there is a black screen, and press power again: it boots hekate.
In this case, would it be more appropriate to redo the installation on the CPU capacitors directly? using two mosfets? Can I just cut the MOSFET cable on the back of the board to make it unusable, without having to desolder the rear capacitor cables?
- blinks blue 2 to 8 seconds then white ==> boots hekate.
- sometime blinks blue 10 to 25 seconds then white ==> black screen or boots OFW.
- if there is a black screen, and press power again: it boots hekate.
In this case, would it be more appropriate to redo the installation on the CPU capacitors directly? using two mosfets? Can I just cut the MOSFET cable on the back of the board to make it unusable, without having to desolder the rear capacitor cables?
Seems like CMD/DAT0/CLK issue.
If you decide to redo without removing the mosfet, cut the gate line is enough, but to be safe add resistor (pulldown) on the gate to gnd, to make sure there are no charge accumulated in there.
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Did the update solve that problem?
Not sure yet. But both unit are now using 47.. with new firmware they dont raise slow emmc warning at least.
No .. im using green Pi Pico. Maybe with 100ohm dat0 the voltage is on the low side of firmware check so it throws error, as maybe if there is no check inplace it woild boot.. just maybe.
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At least now its safe to know that pico will go to lowest power mode after glitch.Just as what i am suspecting. Hopefully this will fixed any 'slow emmc' stuff. Logically it should, except if some other unknown scenario happened
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Let us now whether that will improve glicth time or not, as I suspect it wouldnt.
Last edited by cgtchy0412,
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which mosfet would be the equivalent of 8342 in a sof23 type package to solder directly to the motherboard
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