I got an OLED with a Toshiba EMMC today. First I've seen, and I've done many oleds. Did you guys get any of these? It's from a very recent mario kart bundle
Edit: looking back, some other guy had one of these in June, so apparently nothing new. Nevermind!
Had an unfortunate switch V2 whose LCD clip popped off, but unfortunately, even though I somehow managed to pop it back in with a tremendous amount of work, the LCD is showing these bands, I'm guessing I'll have to get a new connector to replace it? The flex cable didn't seem damaged at all. Or could this be caused by something else?
Had an unfortunate switch V2 whose LCD clip popped off, but unfortunately, even though I somehow managed to pop it back in with a tremendous amount of work, the LCD is showing these bands, I'm guessing I'll have to get a new connector to replace it? The flex cable didn't seem damaged at all. Or could this be caused by something else?
There is something no right with either your cable or the connector.
First check that you seated the flatcable correctly and there is no dirt/damage on the connections.
These bands are a symptom of some datalines not connected.
Was this brought in by a customer saying that just the clip popped off?
Sometimes customers don't tell the whole truth.
I have a bad chinese emmc adapters and want to use it, so I trimmed parts that are supposed to short. Will it work? And if so, can I also cut it on red line? (on the left is what it's look like before trimming)
I have a bad chinese emmc adapters and want to use it, so I trimmed parts that are supposed to short. Will it work? And if so, can I also cut it on red line? (on the left is what it's look like before trimming)
I wouldn’t risk it since the connection looks quite bad, even if it works it's guaranteed you will have problems in the future. Better order another one (or do a reball if you can).
And if you choose to use it don't cut at red line, it will only make things worse since you will lose one anchor point.
I wouldn’t risk it since the connection looks quite bad, even if it works it's guaranteed you will have problems in the future. Better order another one (or do a reball if you can).
And if you choose to use it don't cut at red line, it will only make things worse since you will lose one anchor point.
Trimming would ruin the copper plated edge making the connection much worse since you are exposing the layered substrate. Leave it as is just don't use too much force when inserting. And another tip, avoid using flux near the eMMC I cannot stress more on this because most of peoples problems stems from this.
There is something no right with either your cable or the connector.
First check that you seated the flatcable correctly and there is no dirt/damage on the connections.
These bands are a symptom of some datalines not connected.
Was this brought in by a customer saying that just the clip popped off?
Sometimes customers don't tell the whole truth.
Wasn't like this from the customer, it happened when I went to close it. I've never had a latch pop off ever in my 15+ years of handling electronics, but putting it back clearly damaged it if it's caused by the datalines not being connected. I'll order a replacement connector - thanks.
Trimming would ruin the copper plated edge making the connection much worse since you are exposing the layered substrate. Leave it as is just don't use too much force when inserting. And another tip, avoid using flux near the eMMC I cannot stress more on this because most of peoples problems stems from this
Trimming would ruin the copper plated edge making the connection much worse since you are exposing the layered substrate. Leave it as is just don't use too much force when inserting. And another tip, avoid using flux near the eMMC I cannot stress more on this because most of peoples problems stems from this.
Well, we've been through this a couple of times and in the end it's more of a personal choice than exact science. We don't have an exact way of knowing how this connection will behave in the future (too many adapter and emmc models) so we mostly go by trial and error.
Seeing as the guy who asked the question did not do this before I was suggesting a safer way to do it. It's a one thing to overlay a picture on PC and another one to push this adapter straight under emmc on your first try without deforming anything.
As for the flux, depends on the type of flux you use but it should not be a problem. I do all the reballs with alot of flux, and even when I use these dat0 from time to time still use flux to fix everything in place and connect the wires, never had any issues.
Nice image, but unfortunately I had the short with that type of adapter without modifying it, if it happened to me it can happen to anyone unfortunately
Well, we've been through this a couple of times and in the end it's more of a personal choice than exact science. We don't have an exact way of knowing how this connection will behave in the future (too many adapter and emmc models) so we mostly go by trial and error.
Seeing as the guy who asked the question did not do this before I was suggesting a safer way to do it. It's a one thing to overlay a picture on PC and another one to push this adapter straight under emmc on your first try without deforming anything.
As for the flux, depends on the type of flux you use but it should not be a problem. I do all the reballs with alot of flux, and even when I use these dat0 from time to time still use flux to fix everything in place and connect the wires, never had any issues.
I will only talk about my experience.
The flux I used comes directly from Amtech direct website so I know its 100% authentic and should not oppose any problems. However, that's not the case, I still get returns from customers one year later and every time when I lift the adapter there's always sticky flux top and bottom of the adapter which is impossible to clean. My only conclusion is that this goo somehow made its way to the trace forming a thin layer over time become solid enough to cut connection. At least that's my theory. Once I changed my technique the issue was solved for me.
Of course every person have their own experience but this for me fixed all my problems related to this adapter assuming you're using the right one. I did hundreds of units with the same technique and have yet to see any show up for adjustment unlike the very first batches I did which I get returns every once in awhile.
Nice image, but unfortunately I had the short with that type of adapter without modifying it, if it happened to me it can happen to anyone unfortunately
That adapter is a defect and should not get pass QC because its misaligned and not milled. I had the same in one batch which I wasn't comfortable in using so I tossed it away.
I got an OLED with a Toshiba EMMC today. First I've seen, and I've done many oleds. Did you guys get any of these? It's from a very recent mario kart bundle
Edit: looking back, some other guy had one of these in June, so apparently nothing new. Nevermind!
I will only talk about my experience.
The flux I used comes directly from Amtech direct website so I know its 100% authentic and should not oppose any problems. However, that's not the case, I still get returns from customers one year later and every time when I lift the adapter there's always sticky flux top and bottom of the adapter which is impossible to clean. My only conclusion is that this goo somehow made its way to the trace forming a thin layer over time become solid enough to cut connection. At least that's my theory. Once I changed my technique the issue was solved for me.
Of course every person have their own experience but this for me fixed all my problems related to this adapter assuming you're using the right one. I did hundreds of units with the same technique and have yet to see any show up for adjustment unlike the very first batches I did which I get returns every once in awhile.
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That adapter is a defect and should not get pass QC because its misaligned and not milled. I had the same in one batch which I wasn't comfortable in using so I tossed it away.
But to me the adapter has never been dirty with flux. When I apply it it is perfectly clean without any trace of flux. However, to be on the safe side, I now carry out a filing in any case. At the moment all the units modified by me (oled) are operational.
But to me the adapter has never been dirty with flux. When I apply it it is perfectly clean without any trace of flux. However, to be on the safe side, I now carry out a filing in any case. At the moment all the units modified by me (oled) are operational.
Frankly, I still wouldn't use this because the point of contact is very narrow. I would rather have a large contact area than a narrow one. On a microscopic scale this can be the difference between having a connection or a no connect because how physics work.
Mine glitched decently fast (1-6 seconds) but the initial boot0 write took a long time for some reason. It also performed rather poorly in the emmc benchmark, especially the first offset
Frankly, I still wouldn't use this because the point of contact is very narrow. I would rather have a large contact area than a narrow one. On a microscopic scale this can be the difference between having a connection or a no connect because how physics work.
I'll repeat something very important that I picked up during my experience with adapters, I've worked with lots of OLEDs like you and all but all the returns have always and only been caused by a short with dat1 and never, I repeat, never due to disconnection from dat0 regardless of the adapter used . OATO DAT0 v1 v5-6 black small black large etc etc
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