Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[impeeza]

yes sir

 

[Dee87]

Hello. Thanks.
I scanned through it and I saw the pic below. Kindly asking, Is it by done by setting a bridge between these two points?

yes bridging it it the answer and yes u need to bridge it permanantly

 

[FreeLander]

yes bridging it it the answer and yes u need to bridge it permanantly

Thank you. Much appreciated.

 

[kot-jpeg]

Can you share image install of mosfet? thanks

Sorry, didn't take any images. But it was like on this pic only with two mosfets in parallel. Also they were bigger (3x3 mm package) so i cut out that metal strip on the right side to fit em.

 

[FlowerFire]

Ok, tragedy struck.
My fault for not listening to advices about wires thickness and stuff, I ended up buying a 0.35mm wire, which was indeed too thick. Tried stuff anyway but it was a bad idea. I bridged the 3v3 capacitor with the one just above it and in the attempt of cleaning the small bridge, something weird happened and I tried to take a pic in the best way my phone could.

The bridge is now clean BUT a very small stain of solder is now attached to the microscopic capacitor to the right. I can't manage to get it off, it's also lying very low as if it was a very thin layer of solder directly on the pcb.
I suspect it may be caused by a residue of a desoldering wick or a tiny part that came off from the 3v3 capacitor.

At the moment, doing a continuity test doesn't trigger any result, concerning the sorrounding components.

If someone with more knowledge could help me with the following:

• Understand if there's indeed no short due to the blob of solder and subsequently just leave it there with maybe a small dab of hot glue
• Understand if the 3v3 cap is still working and is still well attached to the pcb, because I don't know about another test point (maybe the one beneath the emmc? But still it's quite hard to reach)
• When will it be safe to turn the Switch on again. Of course the battery has been detached since the removal of the backplate.

Hopefully, someone will be able to help
Edit: It's a patched V1

 

[Dee87]

Ok, tragedy struck.
My fault for not listening to advices about wires thickness and stuff, I ended up buying a 0.35mm wire, which was indeed too thick. Tried stuff anyway but it was a bad idea. I bridged the 3v3 capacitor with the one just above it and in the attempt of cleaning the small bridge, something weird happened and I tried to take a pic in the best way my phone could.

The bridge is now clean BUT a very small stain of solder is now attached to the microscopic capacitor to the right. I can't manage to get it off, it's also lying very low as if it was a very thin layer of solder directly on the pcb.
I suspect it may be caused by a residue of a desoldering wick or a tiny part that came off from the 3v3 capacitor.

At the moment, doing a continuity test doesn't trigger any result, concerning the sorrounding components.

If someone with more knowledge could help me with the following:

• Understand if there's indeed no short due to the blob of solder and subsequently just leave it there with maybe a small dab of hot glue
• Understand if the 3v3 cap is still working and is still well attached to the pcb, because I don't know about another test point (maybe the one beneath the emmc? But still it's quite hard to reach)
• When will it be safe to turn the Switch on again. Of course the battery has been detached since the removal of the backplate.

Hopefully, someone will be able to help
Edit: It's a patched V1
View attachment 363402

i would through on som flux and get rid of the solder blobs with a iron fand wick or would desolder the components with a hot air gun and wick everything away if u cant get it of with ur soldering iron....
dont turn on the console as long as there are bridges

 

[FlowerFire]

i would through on som flux and get rid of the solder blobs with a iron fand wick or would desolder the components with a hot air gun and wick everything away if u cant get it of with ur soldering iron....
dont turn on the console as long as there are bridges

Technically, there shouldn't be bridges I tested continuity between the upper parts of the two (3v3 and small) capacitors and the lower part of the top (bigger one) capacitor and there is none.
I've got continuity between something like: lower part of the 3v3 capacitor and upper part of the top capacitor but my guess is that it's just because they're bot going to gnd

 

[FreeLander]

Ok, tragedy struck.
My fault for not listening to advices about wires thickness and stuff, I ended up buying a 0.35mm wire, which was indeed too thick. Tried stuff anyway but it was a bad idea. I bridged the 3v3 capacitor with the one just above it and in the attempt of cleaning the small bridge, something weird happened and I tried to take a pic in the best way my phone could.

The bridge is now clean BUT a very small stain of solder is now attached to the microscopic capacitor to the right. I can't manage to get it off, it's also lying very low as if it was a very thin layer of solder directly on the pcb.
I suspect it may be caused by a residue of a desoldering wick or a tiny part that came off from the 3v3 capacitor.

At the moment, doing a continuity test doesn't trigger any result, concerning the sorrounding components.

If someone with more knowledge could help me with the following:

• Understand if there's indeed no short due to the blob of solder and subsequently just leave it there with maybe a small dab of hot glue
• Understand if the 3v3 cap is still working and is still well attached to the pcb, because I don't know about another test point (maybe the one beneath the emmc? But still it's quite hard to reach)
• When will it be safe to turn the Switch on again. Of course the battery has been detached since the removal of the backplate.

Hopefully, someone will be able to help
Edit: It's a patched V1
View attachment 363402

I tried using 0.3mm like you and it was a mess. I spent alot of time watching and reading about the best AWG for this sort of job. I see most people recommend 38 awg (0.1mm) seems to be the sweet spot. Copper enameled wire or Teflon wires are the best.

 

[GarnetSunset]

Purple screen is corrupt bootloader iirc, so you will need a successful modchip install to repair it.

Gotcha, I got a new lite so thats cool, ill give it a shot

Post automatically merged: Apr 6, 2023

lets see ur all ur solder points

Returned that one

 

[Dee87]

Returned that one

hahahaha no questions asked? well nice for u then be carefull with this one :-)
good luck

 

[fwizbee]

Pkg1 decryption failed!
BEK is missing!
Failed to launch HOS

PicoFly 2.5 with Unlocked Flashed...
Mariko v2
Cant boot CFW or even Dump Keys with LockPick

Any Advice?

 

[Dee87]

Pkg1 decryption failed!
BEK is missing!
Failed to launch HOS

PicoFly 2.5 with Unlocked Flashed...
Mariko v2
Cant boot CFW or even Dump Keys with LockPick

Any Advice?

flash fw 2.5 then unlock after that it will work maybe just unlock is enough but just flash both :-)

dont boot cfw befor u backed up nand and keys!!!!

 

[FreeLander]

need to set RGB jumper

Thank you. Issue fixed. Purple color

 

[Dee87]

Thank you. Issue fixed. Purple color

PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK

 

[GarnetSunset]

hahahaha no questions asked? well nice for u then be carefull with this one :-)
good luck

Thank you! I wasnt using resistahs before!

 

[Dee87]

Thank you! I wasnt using resistahs before!

ah i seee well that wasnt smart then :-(
there is a reson why the things needed are listet use everythign thats on there and everything should be fine:-)

 

[FreeLander]

PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK

Sorry I did not clarify. When I flashed my rp2040 with 2.5+, I got a blue then a WHITE color. I asked here and I was told to set the RGB jumper to get the correct color sequence, that is, blue then Purple.

 

[RexSonic]

Sorry I did not clarify. When I flashed my rp2040 with 2.5+, I got a blue then a WHITE color. I asked here and I was told to set the RGB jumper to get the correct color sequence, that is, blue then Purple.

Did you see green or red after flashing the firmware?

 

[Dee87]

Sorry I did not clarify. When I flashed my rp2040 with 2.5+, I got a blue then a WHITE color. I asked here and I was told to set the RGB jumper to get the correct color sequence, that is, blue then Purple.

okay u havent installed the rp yet like it looks on the video

like i said before after u flash it and have a green light after flahing u need to set rgb mode so u get a red led after flashing

u need to install the rp2040 if ur having issue with it otherwise nobody can help only with the point of having the right color after flashing the rp 2040


u flash the rp2040 after u should get a succes color after u draged the required files in the rp2040 folder that appers and if u get green after flashing it it means u need to set rgb mode , if u get red u dont need to set rgb mode

 

[naldo29]

so are the picofly apu flex cables, the same cables used in the hwfly?