yes bridging it it the answer and yes u need to bridge it permanantlyHello. Thanks.
I scanned through it and I saw the pic below. Kindly asking, Is it by done by setting a bridge between these two points?
Thank you. Much appreciated.yes bridging it it the answer and yes u need to bridge it permanantly
Sorry, didn't take any images. But it was like on this pic only with two mosfets in parallel. Also they were bigger (3x3 mm package) so i cut out that metal strip on the right side to fit em.Can you share image install of mosfet? thanks
i would through on som flux and get rid of the solder blobs with a iron fand wick or would desolder the components with a hot air gun and wick everything away if u cant get it of with ur soldering iron....Ok, tragedy struck.
My fault for not listening to advices about wires thickness and stuff, I ended up buying a 0.35mm wire, which was indeed too thick. Tried stuff anyway but it was a bad idea. I bridged the 3v3 capacitor with the one just above it and in the attempt of cleaning the small bridge, something weird happened and I tried to take a pic in the best way my phone could.
The bridge is now clean BUT a very small stain of solder is now attached to the microscopic capacitor to the right. I can't manage to get it off, it's also lying very low as if it was a very thin layer of solder directly on the pcb.
I suspect it may be caused by a residue of a desoldering wick or a tiny part that came off from the 3v3 capacitor.
At the moment, doing a continuity test doesn't trigger any result, concerning the sorrounding components.
If someone with more knowledge could help me with the following:
Hopefully, someone will be able to help
- Understand if there's indeed no short due to the blob of solder and subsequently just leave it there with maybe a small dab of hot glue
- Understand if the 3v3 cap is still working and is still well attached to the pcb, because I don't know about another test point (maybe the one beneath the emmc? But still it's quite hard to reach)
- When will it be safe to turn the Switch on again. Of course the battery has been detached since the removal of the backplate.
Edit: It's a patched V1
View attachment 363402
Technically, there shouldn't be bridges I tested continuity between the upper parts of the two (3v3 and small) capacitors and the lower part of the top (bigger one) capacitor and there is none.i would through on som flux and get rid of the solder blobs with a iron fand wick or would desolder the components with a hot air gun and wick everything away if u cant get it of with ur soldering iron....
dont turn on the console as long as there are bridges
I tried using 0.3mm like you and it was a mess. I spent alot of time watching and reading about the best AWG for this sort of job. I see most people recommend 38 awg (0.1mm) seems to be the sweet spot. Copper enameled wire or Teflon wires are the best.Ok, tragedy struck.
My fault for not listening to advices about wires thickness and stuff, I ended up buying a 0.35mm wire, which was indeed too thick. Tried stuff anyway but it was a bad idea. I bridged the 3v3 capacitor with the one just above it and in the attempt of cleaning the small bridge, something weird happened and I tried to take a pic in the best way my phone could.
The bridge is now clean BUT a very small stain of solder is now attached to the microscopic capacitor to the right. I can't manage to get it off, it's also lying very low as if it was a very thin layer of solder directly on the pcb.
I suspect it may be caused by a residue of a desoldering wick or a tiny part that came off from the 3v3 capacitor.
At the moment, doing a continuity test doesn't trigger any result, concerning the sorrounding components.
If someone with more knowledge could help me with the following:
Hopefully, someone will be able to help
- Understand if there's indeed no short due to the blob of solder and subsequently just leave it there with maybe a small dab of hot glue
- Understand if the 3v3 cap is still working and is still well attached to the pcb, because I don't know about another test point (maybe the one beneath the emmc? But still it's quite hard to reach)
- When will it be safe to turn the Switch on again. Of course the battery has been detached since the removal of the backplate.
Edit: It's a patched V1
View attachment 363402
Gotcha, I got a new lite so thats cool, ill give it a shotPurple screen is corrupt bootloader iirc, so you will need a successful modchip install to repair it.
Returned that onelets see ur all ur solder points
hahahaha no questions asked? well nice for u then be carefull with this one :-)Returned that one
flash fw 2.5 then unlock after that it will work maybe just unlock is enough but just flash both :-)Pkg1 decryption failed!
BEK is missing!
Failed to launch HOS
PicoFly 2.5 with Unlocked Flashed...
Mariko v2
Cant boot CFW or even Dump Keys with LockPick
Any Advice?
PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLKThank you. Issue fixed. Purple color
Thank you! I wasnt using resistahs before!hahahaha no questions asked? well nice for u then be carefull with this one :-)
good luck
ah i seee well that wasnt smart then :-(Thank you! I wasnt using resistahs before!
Sorry I did not clarify. When I flashed my rp2040 with 2.5+, I got a blue then a WHITE color. I asked here and I was told to set the RGB jumper to get the correct color sequence, that is, blue then Purple.PURPLE = eMMC boot failure, check CMD / CLK
Did you see green or red after flashing the firmware?Sorry I did not clarify. When I flashed my rp2040 with 2.5+, I got a blue then a WHITE color. I asked here and I was told to set the RGB jumper to get the correct color sequence, that is, blue then Purple.
okay u havent installed the rp yet like it looks on the videoSorry I did not clarify. When I flashed my rp2040 with 2.5+, I got a blue then a WHITE color. I asked here and I was told to set the RGB jumper to get the correct color sequence, that is, blue then Purple.