Hacking Hardware Picofly - a HWFLY switch modchip

[Elpoep]

bruh. one centimeter is 0.4 inch.

edit: and I guess I should clarify that those 370 degrees are the celsius kind, which equals about 700 degrees fahrenheit

apologies, yes, the centimeter is about .4 inches and i can use that with some kapton tape and I figured it was celcius. Is there any reason you wouldn't use a higher air flow speed?

Thanks again!

 

[jkyoho]

a follow-up to my previous post about relocating the status LED to the home button of the switch lite, I was successful in doing so with the detachable joy-con as well. not very practical, but fun. used pin 6 of the joy-con, JRST, to run the LED data line out of the console and into the controller.

View attachment 380821

simply DI/DO from rp2040 LED to PIN6 JRST on right rail fpc seems not able to turn on Home button LED, I think I am missing something

 

[deeps]

apologies, yes, the centimeter is about .4 inches and i can use that with some kapton tape and I figured it was celcius. Is there any reason you wouldn't use a higher air flow speed?

Thanks again!

higher airspeed means higher risk of blowing things away, and 25% works well enough

 

[snaker]

i said im not sure, but i have read from some people using the same firmware and thats why i said we should not do support for them cause they "steal" the idea and the work from people who did it for the community and sell them Preflashed with the firmware that was created in this forum from people who didnt get one cent and did this all for the community and they profit from other peoples work.

sure the firmware is free available but they make money off if it and dont give the buyers support thats the main reson we should not support them :-)

its up to everyone themself what they support and what not.
thats why i always advise them to eather create there own thread for those clones and not overrun the threads with devices that are not in the supportet list.

All these clone chips use the same firmware released by the great developer rehius. Most of them are shipped with firmware 2.65. I have read all kind of nonsense that some of these chips blow up emmcs, that some of them cant be programmed with usb cable, others cant be programmed with picofly toolbox. I want to clarify some things a bit and some misunderstandings.

I bought some variants to do some tests regarding boot times and quality. Even though almost all of these clones missing the second resistors, when you add them they are reliable and very fast booting. The dat0 adapters that come with these chips are completery trash and when i mean trash the word is not enough to describe them. If you use one of these dat0 adapters it is guaranted that you will corrupt your emmc even wrost blow it up as mentioned at some posts. These dat0 adapters are responsible for the dead switches not the rp 2040 varian chips themselves. Also you can update them with either of the two ways to the latest firmware without any problems.

That said i completely agree with you that they use other peoples work to make money from it and we must not pay for them at all costs. The terribly low prices that we see now at instinct-nx , hwfly core lite and oled whould be just a dream if rehius had not released his so precious firmwares. Fo this situation today we owe everything to rehius. Lets dont forget that!

 

[Pickle_Rick]

i said im not sure, but i have read from some people using the same firmware and thats why i said we should not do support for them cause they "steal" the idea and the work from people who did it for the community and sell them Preflashed with the firmware that was created in this forum from people who didnt get one cent and did this all for the community and they profit from other peoples work.

sure the firmware is free available but they make money off if it and dont give the buyers support thats the main reson we should not support them :-)

its up to everyone themself what they support and what not.
thats why i always advise them to eather create there own thread for those clones and not overrun the threads with devices that are not in the supportet list.

No, they all use the regular firmware. It's literally a picofly on a different pcb. I don't care about your pissing match. Someone asked if this firmware was for their board too. The answer is yes.
Also, if you don't want to support the Hwfly RP2040 maybe you guys should remove the part of the title that literally says "Hwfly". Lmao. Might help a bit. IDK. It's confusing for the normies.

 

[frozenboy]

Hi everyone again. I got rp2040 tiny with grb mode, how could i change it to rgb mode, I dont want to make another fw just for led color

 

[bilalhassan341]

Hi everyone again. I got rp2040 tiny with grb mode, how could i change it to rgb mode, I dont want to make another fw just for led color

Just use a newer firmware. Color code is gone. There is a new error codes based on Pulse As long or short one. So, the color of the pulse does not matter in this case.

 

[frozenboy]

a follow-up to my previous post about relocating the status LED to the home button of the switch lite, I was successful in doing so with the detachable joy-con as well. not very practical, but fun. used pin 6 of the joy-con, JRST, to run the LED data line out of the console and into the controller.

View attachment 380821

Looking forward to your schematic, the joycon also need some wired right?

 

[Elpoep]

long-short-short means emmc init failure during glitch process. afaik this isn't mosfet related. I would try adding extra resistors om dat0/cmd

why do people hate on hynix so much? i've done a few oleds with sk hynix emmc's, including reball, and they work just fine. no difference from other brands.

are you bridging the 47R resistors for the DAT0 and CMD whed you do these OLEDs?

why do people hate on hynix so much? i've done a few oleds with sk hynix emmc's, including reball, and they work just fine. no difference from other brands.

are you bridging the 47R resistors for the DAT0 and CMD whed you do your OLED Pico mods? Or would it be better to just order stronger resistors and use those... if so what rating do you use or suggest?

 

[postnutclarity]

With the rollback to 2.73, how do I rollback from 2.74 to 2.73? I removed the usb-c port on my rp2040...

i'm having issues with 2.74 firmware, glitch was working fine for about a week after install of picofly but now it just boots to OFW. sometimes it awkwardly glitches, but im not sure when/how it glitches and when/how it doesn't.

 

[deeps]

are you bridging the 47R resistors for the DAT0 and CMD whed you do these OLEDs?

are you bridging the 47R resistors for the DAT0 and CMD whed you do your OLED Pico mods? Or would it be better to just order stronger resistors and use those... if so what rating do you use or suggest?

i'm doing all my installs with 100 ohm resistors for dat0/cmd and 47 ohm for clk. haven't had any ofw problems with any switch yet.

Post automatically merged: Jun 29, 2023

With the rollback to 2.73, how do I rollback from 2.74 to 2.73? I removed the usb-c port on my rp2040...

i'm having issues with 2.74 firmware, glitch was working fine for about a week after install of picofly but now it just boots to OFW. sometimes it awkwardly glitches, but im not sure when/how it glitches and when/how it doesn't.

place the update.bin for 2.73 in the root of your sd card, launch picofly toolbox from hekate, press update

 

[postnutclarity]

i'm doing all my installs with 100 ohm resistors for dat0/cmd and 47 ohm for clk. haven't had any ofw problems with any switch yet.

Post automatically merged: Jun 29, 2023

place the update.bin for 2.73 in the root of your sd card, launch picofly toolbox from hekate, press update

I can’t launch hekate because the picofly is currently not glitching

Sometimes it glitches and launches hekate but it’s inconsistent. Let me try it when I can. But any other way without installing another picofly? @.@

 

[deeps]

I can’t launch hekate because the picofly is currently not glitching

Sometimes it glitches and launches hekate but it’s inconsistent. Let me try it when I can. But any other way without installing another picofly? @.@

Nope. either get it to glitch, resolder usb, or replace the rp2040 entirely

 

[postnutclarity]

Nope. either get it to glitch, resolder usb, or replace the rp2040 entirely

Lucked out, and managed to boot it to hekate and rolled back to 2.73. Now seems to consistently glitch the cpu

 

[Ragna666]

I would suggest to add a few moments:

- RST point is extremely sensitive. Even a tiny amount of flux may cause problems like instant reboot after startup, so it is highly recommended to clean the board after soldering
- "Slow eMMC mode" as Hekate says, may also be caused by flux, too thin, or too long eMMC wires (CLK, CMD, D0). In some cases double resistors (47+47 = 94 Ohm) on the CMD & D0 lines may help.
- A diagram with single mosfet which is properly connected to both VCC points should be pretty enough, the 0.2mm diameter enameled wire is recommended.

Spoiler: v2 diagram

I know for sure this soldering sucks, the capacitor is lost, but you can do better!
View attachment 364397

- the APU soldering is complicated, and some people may break, or lose capacitors there, in this case, it is possible to replace them with the ones from the pico board!

Spoiler: pico caps

actually there are more 100nF caps, but I'm too lazy to ensure which are the required ones
View attachment 364398

Hi!
I accidentally removed and lost these two caps right now on a zero. (i marked it with yellow.)
what cap is these two?
i need to replace them or i can just leave it be and gonna work like this?

 

[postnutclarity]

Lucked out, and managed to boot it to hekate and rolled back to 2.73. Now seems to consistently glitch the cpu

update: it's now 2.73 from the pico box menu, and nope, it's back to being inconsistently glitching. whenever it's not glitching it would be =* (inferring it's a Dat0 connection issue) but it's weird because when i checked with my multimeter, it's showing connection @.@

 

[cgtchy0412]

update: it's now 2.73 from the pico box menu, and nope, it's back to being inconsistently glitching. whenever it's not glitching it would be =* (inferring it's a Dat0 connection issue) but it's weird because when i checked with my multimeter, it's showing connection @.@

Oftenly as my exp all this inconsistency down to cleanness of wire solder&/instalation. If i were you i will just redo all the wires with more attention, then move on.
Sometime one unit just needs more attention/work just to make it reliable.
Also change/replace the mosfet while you at it.

 

[lightninjay]

simply DI/DO from rp2040 LED to PIN6 JRST on right rail fpc seems not able to turn on Home button LED, I think I am missing something

My understanding is that it's sort of a 'vampiric tunnel' that is then tapped into on the joycon's side through pin 6 with wire, similar to their replacement of the LED in the switch lite. Since the LED signals are only at picofly boot, they shouldn't interfere with JRST on pin6.

 

[jkyoho]

My understanding is that it's sort of a 'vampiric tunnel' that is then tapped into on the joycon's side through pin 6 with wire, similar to their replacement of the LED in the switch lite. Since the LED signals are only at picofly boot, they shouldn't interfere with JRST on pin6.

Extra work on joycon board would just make this non-practical, just like @vulp_vibes already mentioned

 

[lightninjay]

Extra work on joycon board would just make this non-practical, just like @vulp_vibes already mentioned

Some mods have nothing to do with practicality, and everything to do with COOL points.