Picofly AIO Thread

[Flaviocarvalho]

These points on the motherboard are very, very fragile, any change in temperature they come loose and break, that's the reason that made me use the NAND board test points (I thought that if I damaged something, it would be cheaper to fix it). Did you try the tip our friend @Haseo13 gave us?

Not yet but i will.... tomorrow....i'm stressed enought to try kkk but thanks very much

 

[QuiTim]

I don't remember if it was this thread or other picofly one.
* What pin/pins can I disconnect to use the switch lite in the meantime while I wait for a few more supplies?
My girl is complaining about her animal crossing town . Trying to solder these tiny Mosfet's while trying to hold them with tweezers is killing me. I have everything wired but getting CPU error.
* Will this Mosfet (IRF8714TRPBF) work as a replacement? Someone mentioned a similar one.
I have a great soldering station but my flux and solder aren't working for this application.
* What are recommendations for those?
Currently, using Sn60/Pb40 Solder and MG Chemicals 8361 No Clean Flux
Thanks

This has mostly been answered so i'm just putting my 2 cents.
The main thing here (at least for me) is having the right size iron tip.
So, first hold the mosfet down by some fine tweezers or a needle if you have to, then add flux to mosfet, add solder to iron and tin the mosfet.
Then tin the wire and while holding the mosfet with the same wire in place just give it a quick touch with iron and it should be in place. Repeat the procedure for the other 2 wires.
Sn63Pb37 is better in my opinion, and Sn62Pb36Ag2 is the best i've used so far.
For flux i'm using MG 8341, it works fine still waiting to get my hands on some AMtech 559 (people swear by it apparently)
And yes, the 8714 works, i used it myself, much easier to work with.
Good luck

 

[Type_O_Dev]

This has mostly been answered so i'm just putting my 2 cents.
The main thing here (at least for me) is having the right size iron tip.
So, first hold the mosfet down by some fine tweezers or a needle if you have to, then add flux to mosfet, add solder to iron and tin the mosfet.
Then tin the wire and while holding the mosfet with the same wire in place just give it a quick touch with iron and it should be in place. Repeat the procedure for the other 2 wires.
Sn63Pb37 is better in my opinion, and Sn62Pb36Ag2 is the best i've used so far.
For flux i'm using MG 8341, it works fine still waiting to get my hands on some AMtech 559 (people swear by it apparently)
And yes, the 8714 works, i used it myself, much easier to work with.
Good luck

Hey appreciate your response. I am using “I” tip but originally wasn't, Definitely helped. I am going at it again with the original FET and hoping with I will get it, This time I'm just running 2 maybe my switch is being temperamental with one. If I don't get it today I will try the larger ones. Thanks Again!

 

[QuiTim]

Hey appreciate your response. I am using “I” tip but originally wasn't, Definitely helped. I am going at it again with the original FET and hoping with I will get it, This time I'm just running 2 maybe my switch is being temperamental with one. If I don't get it today I will try the larger ones. Thanks Again!

No problem.
One more thing, use more heat for short period of time instead of low heat for longer period.
This way you should get better results and less risk of damaging any component or traces.

 

[Type_O_Dev]

No problem.
One more thing, use more heat for short period of time instead of low heat for longer period.
This way you should get better results and less risk of damaging any component or traces.

Thank you all, I finally got it working. I had UV resin delivered with better solder today. I could not get this Switch Lite to work with one Mosfet. Furthermore, I added a second and finally no CPU error. I actually removed all my old wires and redid connections with coil wire. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[cgtchy0412]

Thank you all, I finally got it working. I had UV resin delivered with better solder today. I could not get this Switch Lite to work with one Mosfet. Furthermore, I added a second and finally no CPU error. I actually removed all my old wires and redid connections with coil wire. Thanks again for all the help.

Which mosfet you installed last, suppose its the right side. Wonder if you can try to remove the left side and see if it still work. Because in my Lite only one mosfet on the left is enough, although the mosfet (source&drain) is like 1/2 cm below the capacitor.
Whether the issue is about source/drain distance or about two signal from multiple mosfets is needed, or it just every console is specific and we dont know what the variable here.

 

[Type_O_Dev]

Which mosfet you installed last, suppose its the right side. Wonder if you can try to remove the left side and see if it still work. Because in my Lite only one mosfet on the left is enough, although the mosfet (source&drain) is like 1/2 cm below the capacitor.
Whether the issue is about source/drain distance or about two signal from multiple mosfets is needed, or it just every console is specific and we dont know what the variable here.

The left/Bottom was the first one I had hooked up. I tried that one to both caps and still didn't work. Literally in the last 3–4 days I tried everything including left side of cap like pic in OP, but this lite would not boot with one.

 

[Adran_Marit]

The left/Bottom was the first one I had hooked up. I tried that one to both caps and still didn't work. Literally in the last 3–4 days I tried everything including left side of cap like pic in OP, but this lite would not boot with one.

sometimes that happens

 

[Takezo-San]

Thank you all, I finally got it working. I had UV resin delivered with better solder today. I could not get this Switch Lite to work with one Mosfet. Furthermore, I added a second and finally no CPU error. I actually removed all my old wires and redid connections with coil wire. Thanks again for all the help.

First of congrats. Question though, how come you opted to ground your source away from the APU ground point? And second, am I correct in saying, you have to combine the MOSFETs together by solder bridging them together at the source points!? (It was my only source of confusion with doubling up MOSFETs and would be a big help to clarify this for me.)

 

[QuiTim]

First of congrats. Question though, how come you opted to ground your source away from the APU ground point? And second, am I correct in saying, you have to combine the MOSFETs together by solder bridging them together at the source points!? (It was my only source of confusion with doubling up MOSFETs and would be a big help to clarify this for me.)

You can ground them wherever you want but closer to APU is better (shorter wires, less interference and all)
Also you can combine the mosfets in all points source-to-source, drain-to-drain and gate-to-gate, its just that this setup (as seen in photo) is better from the logistics part because using only one wire to connects both drain terminals and both capacitors would be a real challange. So you bridge source (it also keeps mosfets together) then run separate wires drain-to-cap.

 

[WalangAlam]

Nintendo Switch Lite Alternative Point DAT0 CMD CLK by Modyfikator. Hope it help you

please add this to the guide @

Adran_Marit​

 

[CodyRoseman]

If I do the dead bug? I only need the control wire because, when upside down, the orientation of the mosfet will be correct and I will be able to attach the it to the cap similar to how the Erista chip does it.

View attachment 360465

See? No gauge! ;-)

Is this the Erista CPU?

 

[Modi]

Is this the Erista CPU?

Yes it Erista

 

[Takezo-San]

So you bridge source (it also keeps mosfets together) then run separate wires drain-to-cap.

Right. Then run a single wire from, the now bridged sources, to the ground point. And two wires from the gate points to CPU (at the pico). Got it.

 

[CodyRoseman]

Yes it Erista

Thanks, do you understand why in some cases its acceptable to remove the cap and solder the mosfet directly to one of the pads?

 

[Modi]

Thanks, do you understand why in some cases its acceptable to remove the cap and solder the mosfet directly to one of the pads?

Better use wire to mosfet

 

[QuiTim]

Thanks, do you understand why in some cases its acceptable to remove the cap and solder the mosfet directly to one of the pads?

The only reason to remove the cap is if you can not solder to it (bad iron or technique) or if you damage the capacitor by mistake.
As @Haseo13 said, better use wire when possible.

 

[CodyRoseman]

Does the capacitor not serve an important function for the cpu, power filtering etc. There is surely some long term risk in not having it installed I'm guessing

 

[Takezo-San]

Does the capacitor not serve an important function for the cpu, power filtering etc. There is surely some long term risk in not having it installed I'm guessing

As far as I remember, losing one or two caps on the switch would mean you shouldn't try to overclock the system down the road but other than that, it should perform fine (but don't remove them if you don't have to is the bottom line).

 

[KorewaKiyo]

Anyone know where I can find a flex for a v1 Erista? I'm interested in trying this mod but my free-hand soldering isn't the best.