Ps5 edm-020 no life

TheWizard69

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Maybe I got your question wrong. But the dcdc bug converter is generating the 1.8V and is feeding your inductor/coil.

View attachment 408348
No Stetofix. You are fine. I know you are referring to the buck converter (A2 chip) But I thought that inductor was fed prior to that chip? Or am I wrong? Maybe the Southbridge feeds that inductor left pad? I know the A2 builds the 1.8v for the f7002 circuit after the inductor. With the inductor back I am drawing 25mA then back down to 22mA. And the bench power supply hangs there. I have 3.3v from the wifi module and i have 3.3 and 1.8v on the caps below the wifi module. Thanks for the reply :)
 

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TheWizard69

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Sorry I didn't follow. Are you initially having short on 1.8v rail?
Jkyoho, On the F7002 circuit. In diode mode, on the first cap after the f7002 fuse I receive a 0.387 and 0.003 on both sides of the inductor. Then the short follows the circuit from there.
 

jkyoho

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What diode reading on blue and yellow after you remove the inductor?
 

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TheWizard69

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What diode reading on blue and yellow after you remove the inductor?
Was the same as when the inductor is on the board. I removed the Wifi module , then checked diode readings again and now everything is normal. No shorts. I feel like i am walking in a circle. What would be causing the issue with connecting the wifi module. This is the second one. Any ideas?
 
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TheWizard69

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Was the same as when the inductor is on the board. I removed the Wifi module , then checked diode readings again and now everything is normal. No shorts. I feel like i am walming ib a circle. What would be causing the issue witg connecting the wifi module. This is the second one. Any ideas?
* I feel like I am walking around in a circle* *what would be causing the issue with connecting the wifi module*
 
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jkyoho

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If you only have short on yellow, you likely have a bad A2 chip
if you only have short on blue, you have 1.8v short somewhere else.
If you have both yellow and blue short(without inductor there), you need to remove A2 and see what else leading the short.
 

TheWizard69

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If you only have short on yellow, you likely have a bad A2 chip
if you only have short on blue, you have 1.8v short somewhere else.
If you have both yellow and blue short(without inductor there), you need to remove A2 and see what else leading the short.
But i dont have any shorts when the wifi module is not connected. I have a full 5.0 to 3.3 v circuit on the f7003 and a full 5.0 to 1.8 v circuit on the f7002. Anything else that could be shorting the wifi module?
 

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But i dont have any shorts when the wifi module is not connected. I have a full 5.0 to 3.3 v circuit on the f7003 and a full 5.0 to 1.8 v circuit on the f7002. Anything else that could be shorting the wifi module?
did you check those caps on the bottom side/other side of wifi chip area? If those all good, then you have bad wifi chip
 

TheWizard69

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did you check those caps on the bottom side/other side of wifi chip area? If those all good, then you have bad wifi chip
Yeah all those caps are good. Are we positive there is nothing else that provides voltage lines to that chip? This is the 3rd wifi module i have had on it if i count the original.
Post automatically merged:

Jkyoho, Have you seen multiple wifi chip issues on boards you have had in?
 
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TheWizard69

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The coil is part of the ciruit of the bug converter (TPS62822). On page 22 of the datasheet you can see a example.
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps62822.pdf

Did you replaced the wifi modul and the short is back?
Yes. Each time I replace the wifi module the short comes back. In theory I agree. The fault would be the wifi module. But this is the third one that has been on the board if we count the original. What else could I be missing?
 

TheWizard69

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Jkyoho,
Happy New Year! Hope you had a great holiday season. I was wondering if you have any idea of known good diode readings for the WIFI Bluetooth Module for the PS5. I have three modules that produce the same short when they are soldered to the board. But the circuit is fine without. To test i have just been using the ground point at bottom left in pic and probing from there. Any other ideas to make sure all three of the modules I have are actually bad?
 

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jkyoho

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I would suggest you find the assigned 1.8v pin from motherboard side BGA pins and then measure from the module side accordingly. I don't have a off board wifi module to test with.
 

TheWizard69

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I would suggest you find the assigned 1.8v pin from motherboard side BGA pins and then measure from the module side accordingly. I don't have a off board wifi module to test with.
I have another EDM-020 board that is suspended from PSN. I bought that to compare standby voltages to early on. I can boot that up in the housing and locate the 1.8v rail for the wifi. I know there is a 3.3 but not sure where it changes. Will investigate.
 

TheWizard69

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Jkyoho,
I re-balled the 2nd replacement wifi module and soldered back to board. But this time I left the shield off the module so I could take readings from components directly on the wifi module. I have my 3.3 on the test point located on the motherboard. I also have 3.3 and 1.8 on the caps for the wifi module itself. The only time the f7002 circuit reads a short is when the wifi module is soldered to the board. If its removed the diode readings for the f7002 circuit go back to normal. The short also exists on the caps on opposite side of wifi module. But those shorts go away as well when the wifi module is removed. I feel like i am running in circles with this one. I checked the southbridge and i have good diode readings there as well. I also have good readings at hdmi encoder. Any ideas?
 

stetofix

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Jkyoho,
I re-balled the 2nd replacement wifi module and soldered back to board. But this time I left the shield off the module so I could take readings from components directly on the wifi module. I have my 3.3 on the test point located on the motherboard. I also have 3.3 and 1.8 on the caps for the wifi module itself. The only time the f7002 circuit reads a short is when the wifi module is soldered to the board. If its removed the diode readings for the f7002 circuit go back to normal. The short also exists on the caps on opposite side of wifi module. But those shorts go away as well when the wifi module is removed. I feel like i am running in circles with this one. I checked the southbridge and i have good diode readings there as well. I also have good readings at hdmi encoder. Any ideas?

The original wifi modul is also a J20H100 and the replacements are J20H100 from a PS5?
 

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