Hacking A Tiny Soldering Job (Reversable Trinket M0)
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I require one of these,
https://www.amazon.com/AmScope-Micr...pID=41zaCiWqFlL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
https://www.amazon.com/AmScope-MU30...pID=41zaCiWqFlL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
as soon as I get a camera, I will record all the pretty soldering action and upload my jobs
Great. I will send you a PM. You can install my dongle for me. I tried that hole on top of the console (the hole that iPhones no longer have) but I could not complete installation. Maybe I'm trying to insert my dongle into the wrong hole. I need a hero.
I don't know if my tiny dongle is capable of turning anything on.
Forever alone.
serious question. For removal of the micro usb port. I have a heat gun that says it can get up to about 1000 degrees F. It's pretty big though and I mainly use it for stuff on my car. Is it safe to use this on the trinket m0 board? I was planning on covering the board with foil (and after seeing your video, a quarter). I'm not sure if the wider opening would be too imprecise.
The other plan was to use my soldering iron and wick and get each little pad off one at a time.
Plan C is to rip the damn thing off.
Gun is Wagner HT-1000 on amazon
The other plan was to use my soldering iron and wick and get each little pad off one at a time.
Plan C is to rip the damn thing off.
Gun is Wagner HT-1000 on amazon
Do you have a decent set of sidecutters? If you don't care about recovering the microUSB port (and you can get new ones for pennies) and have a suitable normal iron then you can cut away the relevant parts of the shell with the sidecutters and remove the rest with a wick or indeed the iron itself if you are good.
Re: temp settings on hot air stations.
I tend to find they are not worth the effort to set too precisely. Or if you prefer then get a hairdryer. Turn it on (hot mode naturally). Hold your hand reasonably far away, leave it there for a bit. Now repeat closer to it and watch you yank your hand away. If your drier has multiple power settings repeat experiment with those. Same deal applies here, just with a lot more heat.
Obviously you need to play each scenario as it comes (too much heat and it is bad, too little and you end up either not doing anything or cooking everything else around before you heat up the part you want. If you know you are melting nasty lead free stuff then some more heat will be needed than an equivalent scenario with glorious full fat leaded solder.
Re: temp settings on hot air stations.
I tend to find they are not worth the effort to set too precisely. Or if you prefer then get a hairdryer. Turn it on (hot mode naturally). Hold your hand reasonably far away, leave it there for a bit. Now repeat closer to it and watch you yank your hand away. If your drier has multiple power settings repeat experiment with those. Same deal applies here, just with a lot more heat.
Obviously you need to play each scenario as it comes (too much heat and it is bad, too little and you end up either not doing anything or cooking everything else around before you heat up the part you want. If you know you are melting nasty lead free stuff then some more heat will be needed than an equivalent scenario with glorious full fat leaded solder.
So this acts just like the SX Pro dongle but built in? So you can go into the SX pro menu to switch between CFW, OFW, and the other options, correct? Also last question, SX Pro can load external payloads, can you do that with this aswell?
Still, the image quality was more then decent-enough..
Out of interest, whats that copper-coloured wire-thing you use to help remove the old board solder; i'm guessing that's it's primary job anyhow..
Last edited by CymraegAce,
Out of interest, whats that copper-coloured wire-thing you use to help remove the old board solder; i'm guessing that's it's primary job anyhow..
It is called desoldering braid, desoldering wick or occasionally solder wick. There are other methods of desoldering but it is still something well worth having around and could be considered an essential bit of kit.
Not all will come with flux (or it might dry out if it does) so make sure you have some of that on hand as well.
I have chisel, conical, knife & radial. I just love the all around uses of conical (like tacking the usb pins), I use max heat and give a slight tap. I always felt like the chisel tip had more surface area and thus more heat, so I tend to use that tip for bigger case codes.Recommendation: Use a chisel tip for your soldering iron. The conical ones are really no good because you have to use higher temps with them making it more likely to rip pads off
I was using a Dewalt d26960k with an attachment that is dime size. what you have would work, but you wouldn't want to center the gun on the USB port, just enough so that you can visualize the air hitting the 5 pins and flowing outward. Really you should be grabbing a scrap circuit board first to understand how the heat gun will work. I wouldn't recommend using tin foil, you have a chance of components lifting off after using a heat gun, best to just throw the quarter on like I did.
dont wick the pads, use my method instead - hit all areas with leaded solder to increase surface area and lower melting temperatures.
dont rip it off
I really need to ask you to act like a man and be mature. I'm not down for your toxic attitude and id prefer you to be upfront with your beef. High school was a very long time ago for me, and at least in my experience, NONE of the guys acted like you have been acting. So either tell me what your problem is with me, or make like a tree.
hes right, sidecutters work great! I use them for laptop DC jacks sometimes
It acts as any dongle you want it to act as, if you tap the reset switch twice you can change the payload via USB-C and a computer.
The issue is having both eyes on a microscope, one hand holding a soldering iron, one hand holding a phone. no mount is going to get in my 2-3 inch clearance between the project and the microscope, and even if it did I would then have a phone in my way.Still, the image quality was more then decent-enough..
Out of interest, whats that copper-coloured wire-thing you use to help remove the old board solder; i'm guessing that's it's primary job anyhow..
Solder wick, yup!
right, your calling this a joke. You are essentially suggesting to someone that ripping something off of a circuit board, causing physical damage, is BETTER than my work. You read that post as soon as I hit submit, then you took THIS LONG to think of something half assed to respond with. Do me a favor buddy, act your age
Except that there is several internal mods in development, that will require (a) tiny solder guy. The Trinket installs we are seeing are evidence enough. We will see people messing up their switches over the next few months guaranteed.
While I will probably live with the Dongle for now, an internal mod that boots into OFW when power is pressed and CFW when power and vol+ are pressed is perfect!
I totally agree! something else I can see happening is the USB-C port failing from repeated jabbings
I was using a Dewalt d26960k with an attachment that is dime size. what you have would work, but you wouldn't want to center the gun on the USB port, just enough so that you can visualize the air hitting the 5 pins and flowing outward. Really you should be grabbing a scrap circuit board first to understand how the heat gun will work. I wouldn't recommend using tin foil, you have a chance of components lifting off after using a heat gun, best to just throw the quarter on like I did.
dont wick the pads, use my method instead - hit all areas with leaded solder to increase surface area and lower melting temperatures.
dont rip it off
Thanks. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
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Last edited by Chary,
"very fun"
you have very sick idea of what fun is, masochistic actually
looks like the conventional soldering iron didn't do anything to remove the micro USB and that it was all hot air that got it off
plus all the REALLY "fun" parts were cut fromt he video
like trying to solder wires to where the micro USB connector was removed and soldering to the switch MB
you have very sick idea of what fun is, masochistic actually
looks like the conventional soldering iron didn't do anything to remove the micro USB and that it was all hot air that got it off
plus all the REALLY "fun" parts were cut fromt he video
like trying to solder wires to where the micro USB connector was removed and soldering to the switch MB
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