Picofly AIO Thread

lenoa

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confirmed that aon6512 is indeed working, but the glitch time is like 15 second, already tried multiple time, each took that long. Any ideas? maybe increasing the R value? or its just mosfet uniqueness.
But i think i already have the candidate for replacement and it is aon7400.. easier to find for me, and work as it should, glitch time also like 2 second.
3 mosfet more to try nonetheles.
yes mine first boot 15 sec,,

1.jpeg
 
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cgtchy0412

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I have measure that resistor. Yupz i confirmed its also 4.7 kΩ on lite.
Thanks.. as it hard to redo that again, ill leave it for now even without knowing what resistor value ive just installed.,😅
Update : seems the resistor value from pico is 470 ohm, so its a tenth of it's original.

Also aon6512 confirmed to be workable(if you dont mind the size 5x5), first boot maybe above 5s, but after around 2-5s.
I redo all the cabling and change the wire into enamel copper, only ground and power on wrapping.
Todays Lite already assembled now, and tomorrow another unit will come to be tested with other mosfet.
 
Last edited by cgtchy0412,

Vivi34

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Hi bro. I have same issue. If you take a look at pico, it should still light up for some time after you’ve shut down. Hence it is not responsive when you immediately try to turn it on again because it is still shutting down.
Post automatically merged:


Check your SD card. It might be either fake or corrupted.
Thanks!! It's like you said, 20 seconds after shutting down, the pico flashes and shuts down. After that, the switch boots normally.
 

Modzvilleusa

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I've done quite a few Picofly installs over the past couple days.
3 oleds with hynix and a v1.
Now in all cases so far, I've needed to increase the value of the resistors on clk and cmd from 47ohm to 120ish.
I followed pdf guide which recommends adding a second 47ohm resistor if emmc initializes in slow mode. 94ohms didn't cut it for me though.
From there I jumped to 150ohms which worked out. \
The next one I dialed it down to 120ohms which also worked.

Question, Does anyone know what the issue is if the resistor value is too high? I haven't noticed any issues with 120ohm or 150ohms on cmd or clk.
Too low emmc is in slow mode that's for sure.

Heres some pics of my recent pico installs. My buddy acidz in my discord gave me this solid tip for the cpu flex. You can wire directly to the resitor on the flex cable. Makes the install much cleaner.

IMG_8148.jpg
 

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lightninjay

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I've done quite a few Picofly installs over the past couple days.
3 oleds with hynix and a v1.
Now in all cases so far, I've needed to increase the value of the resistors on clk and cmd from 47ohm to 120ish.
I followed pdf guide which recommends adding a second 47ohm resistor if emmc initializes in slow mode. 94ohms didn't cut it for me though.
From there I jumped to 150ohms which worked out. \
The next one I dialed it down to 120ohms which also worked.

Question, Does anyone know what the issue is if the resistor value is too high? I haven't noticed any issues with 120ohm or 150ohms on cmd or clk.
Too low emmc is in slow mode that's for sure.

Heres some pics of my recent pico installs. My buddy acidz in my discord gave me this solid tip for the cpu flex. You can wire directly to the resitor on the flex cable. Makes the install much cleaner.

View attachment 371814
To be clear, those resistors in your most prominent photo are a factor of 10 smaller than what they should be to begin with. 4R7 SMD resistors are 4.7 ohms, NOT 47 ohms as they should be...
 

Modzvilleusa

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To be clear, those resistors in your most prominent photo are a factor of 10 smaller than what they should be to begin with. 4R7 SMD resistors are 4.7 ohms, NOT 47 ohms as they should be...
Lol well that explains it, thanks dude.
I ordered 47ohm resistors and didn't think to double check that I was actually sent what I ordered.
 
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Modzvilleusa

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Also, congrats on your 69th post lol
shit, now I can never send another message... oh wait. Rip :D
Post automatically merged:

Has anyone played with these new pico boards yet?
My interest is peaked with the + and - which I assume is for usb passthrough to be able to program the chip like you can with the trinket m0.
Will that need to be implemented in the picofly firmware or would it be possible to install one of these blank, wire it up and program it via the switches usb c port?


1684294031335.png

Post automatically merged:

anyone has a pic of hwfly v1 flex cable installed in v2?
v1 flex only has 1 mofset and from what I've heard marikos need 2.
V2 flexes are very cheap on ali right now.
 
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agus

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can i use rp2040.. but the initial display is hwfly?. let it feel hwfly. but use rp2040. .. I saw earlier on YouTube that someone uses picofly but it looks like the hwfly prefix... seems cool
 

cgtchy0412

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can i use rp2040.. but the initial display is hwfly?. let it feel hwfly. but use rp2040. .. I saw earlier on YouTube that someone uses picofly but it looks like the hwfly prefix... seems cool
Picofly should be way cooller, its the newest star in town, and you must work very hard to make it works.
And if you talk about initial then the initial should be hekate logo right or atmosphere.
 
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aparitxi

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shit, now I can never send another message... oh wait. Rip :D
Post automatically merged:

Has anyone played with these new pico boards yet?
My interest is peaked with the + and - which I assume is for usb passthrough to be able to program the chip like you can with the trinket m0.
Will that need to be implemented in the picofly firmware or would it be possible to install one of these blank, wire it up and program it via the switches usb c port?


View attachment 371825
Post automatically merged:


v1 flex only has 1 mofset and from what I've heard marikos need 2.
V2 flexes are very cheap on ali right now.
I join the question, i installed the rp2040 zero in a mariko v2 and works fine but the rp is too thick to close the console correctly without cutting the metal shell because is too thick, so in the near future i will replace for a thinner one, i was thinking in that picoboard you showed and in the tiny rp that i attach in the photo, anyone knows the pros and cons of each one ?
 

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cgtchy0412

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I join the question, i installed the rp2040 zero in a mariko v2 and works fine but the rp is too thick to close the console correctly without cutting the metal shell because is too thick, so in the near future i will replace for a thinner one, i was thinking in that picoboard you showed and in the tiny rp that i attach in the photo, anyone knows the pros and cons of each one ?
If you plan to replace that rp board anyway then just remove/destroy the usb c port and 2 buttons then just place it bellow the fan and secure it using some double tape, it should fit. And for the mod cable itself you can slide it in between the metal and the fan case.
 

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