Didn't read that far, my bad. So it's 3 short yellow pulses, according to the PDF that means I have a bad eMMC? Did I mess up the DAT0 connection?
Picofly AIO Thread
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Okay, so eMMC init failure, what does that mean though? How can I troubleshoot it?
I don't know, you aren't using one of the supported board types, and you uploaded a dimly lit video. Check with the seller you bought your board from.
Looks like one long and three short..
From the guide:
=*** EMMC initialise error
Check your dat0 point and maybe also the CMD point.
(If you've damaged the 4k7ohm resistor that CMD is connected to you'll get a purple screen when booting to OFW. Easy to fix though with a replacement resistor)
If you were to set up an SD card with Hekate you'd likely see an EMMC error.
Last edited by RedFawkes,
Hello !then sure you won;t have it work. If you only put DIN pin to the OG S-lite LED, it won't do anything since that LED only do blue light and it's not even a RGB LED. I think the guide should mention either you move the rp2040 led to the back next to OG LED or you buy and put extra ws2812b LED to get this mod work
I'll inform @lightninjay if he hasn't read this.
I was surprised too because he told me he was waiting for his ws2812b LEDs to test this mod before releasing V.6.3 of the guide and when I translated the text of this mod, I didn't see anything about this LED.
I did it for V2, Oled and Lite. There are no problem but 0.1mm is kind a thin. Side note; you can use test point near that capacitor to mount mosfet.
Hi everyone! One question... I was working on emuNand and with tinfoil I deleted a nro file (the nro was from a homebrew), it gave me an error asking me to restart the console, but as soon as I restarted it, it didn't enter hekate ...but the console entered in the OFw... I then tried to remove the sd card but the situation did not change... I also noticed that the chip marks D0 not connected with the flashing of the led... but until just before everything went without problems... what could be due to the error?
thank you all!
thank you all!
Last edited by tetshuna,
I think maybe you've already said it yourself. If the picofly is reporting an error code that D0 is not connected then that's likely it.
Share the error code you'll know for sure.
If you or whoever installed it used an adapter for D0 then this has likely moved.
I'm pretty sure of the error code (=*) ... what seems strange to me is that until before the error it hadn't given any signs of trouble... it entered the CFW without problems... I never dropped the console and I wonder how is it possible that the adapter has moved (if there is, because I didn't make the mod)...and within exactly 20 seconds the console went from giving no problem to not starting Hekate and only starting the OFW. Is there any other problem that gives the same error?
if ur dat0 adapter gets warm they tend to bend, maybe urs wasnt sitting properly from the beginneng with and that little heat was enough to bend it just a bit do disrupt the connection.
but noone really can tell u what the real issue was till someone takes it apart and checks it
I don't use adapters so maybe I'm not the right person to help you but from what I've read from others the adapter is the most likely reason for what you've described.
Damn, this is pretty upsetting considering the photos in the guide show a WS2812-2020 with an arrow to indicate its placement (These are Vulp_Vibes' own photos they made). Seriously, if people are making these mistakes, what kind of business do they have doing these mods? I have to remove the V1/V2 and OLED mod from the V.6.4 version per Vulp_Vibes' request anyway, so I guess I'll go through the trouble of EXPLICITLY STATING that you need a WS2812 LED to do this mod...
Hi.
I made a Picofly installation today on a V1 patched. I've made 4 or 5 picofly installations before with no problems. I always use the proper flex cable for cpu points, enamel wire for board pads, and a plastic insulated thin awg wire for VCC and GND.
But after installing this one, the console didn't power on, and the chip didn't show any light. The CPU was warm, so something was wrong. I checked everything and realized the GND wire broke just at the GND point of the chip so it wasn't making contact.
After resoldering it and check everything again, I tried to power on and the chip glitched ok and loaded hekate. The problem is that after loading fusee payload for atmosphere (with all files copied to sd), I get the Atmosphere screen, then the "triangle" atmosphere logo, but then, black screen and after some seconds, an orange screen.
If I boot up with both VOL buttons pressed to load OFW and skip the chip, I get the Nintendo logo, but then black screen, and after some time, orange screen.
I saw it may be due to the wifi chip under the Nand board, but I didn't touched that or solder near that chip. Also, Hekate loads, and the info screen shows the MAC Address, so I think that wifi chip must be ok.
I checked every point with a multimeter and everything looks fine with no bridges. I also checked the board with a the big magnifying glass I use for installations, and I can't see any bridges or damage to any trace.
What can be the problem of the menu not loading and displaying an orange screen? I can only think that powering on the switch with that GND point disconnected due to the cable break caused some damage, but I don't know if that can kill a board.
Any help? Thanks a lot!!
I made a Picofly installation today on a V1 patched. I've made 4 or 5 picofly installations before with no problems. I always use the proper flex cable for cpu points, enamel wire for board pads, and a plastic insulated thin awg wire for VCC and GND.
But after installing this one, the console didn't power on, and the chip didn't show any light. The CPU was warm, so something was wrong. I checked everything and realized the GND wire broke just at the GND point of the chip so it wasn't making contact.
After resoldering it and check everything again, I tried to power on and the chip glitched ok and loaded hekate. The problem is that after loading fusee payload for atmosphere (with all files copied to sd), I get the Atmosphere screen, then the "triangle" atmosphere logo, but then, black screen and after some seconds, an orange screen.
If I boot up with both VOL buttons pressed to load OFW and skip the chip, I get the Nintendo logo, but then black screen, and after some time, orange screen.
I saw it may be due to the wifi chip under the Nand board, but I didn't touched that or solder near that chip. Also, Hekate loads, and the info screen shows the MAC Address, so I think that wifi chip must be ok.
I checked every point with a multimeter and everything looks fine with no bridges. I also checked the board with a the big magnifying glass I use for installations, and I can't see any bridges or damage to any trace.
What can be the problem of the menu not loading and displaying an orange screen? I can only think that powering on the switch with that GND point disconnected due to the cable break caused some damage, but I don't know if that can kill a board.
Any help? Thanks a lot!!
I had precisely this problem a few weeks ago. Same version console, same version of events exactly as you described.
https://repair.wiki/w/Nintendo_Switch_Orange_Screen_On_Bootup
I took the WiFi chip off with hot air, reballed it a reinstalled it (I've added pictures in one of my previous posts a few pages back in this thread).
In hindsight I could've just saved myself a huge amount of time and just reflowed it with hot air and plenty of flux but in any case it worked and hasn't been an issue since.
However, I also found it odd that it came up with this error right after I modded it but since you're here a few weeks later with an identical issue then perhaps there's a cause.
New guide update V.6.4 just dropped.
https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/
https://gbatemp.net/download/a-definitive-picofly-install-guide.37968/
I paid to have a picofly installed on my oled switch in May and it's been working pretty alright. Though, since a month ago, it would sometimes boot into OFW instead of hekate when I turned it on. Today, it simply refuses to boot into hekate and just boots straight to OFW. When I remove the sd card and boot it up, it doesn't go to the "Please insert SD card" screen and just goes to OFW. Is this some dead giveaway for a specific thing gone wrong? It worked for several weeks and now doesn't.
I know that there is an LED light to diagnose the problem, but I've never opened up a switch before. Before I try to open it myself, I thought I should ask if the thing most likely to be wrong would be relatively easy or difficult to fix. Full Transparency: I've heard that physically dropping the switch can mess with some aspect of the mod chip, and I did drop it the day before it would only boot to OFW. Don't know if that helps with diagnosing.
I know that there is an LED light to diagnose the problem, but I've never opened up a switch before. Before I try to open it myself, I thought I should ask if the thing most likely to be wrong would be relatively easy or difficult to fix. Full Transparency: I've heard that physically dropping the switch can mess with some aspect of the mod chip, and I did drop it the day before it would only boot to OFW. Don't know if that helps with diagnosing.
Last edited by StrmSrg,
Thats one possible cause, either way you need to contact your installer to have it check and fix.
=== Warning DANGER ahead ==
Or maybe if you brave enough you can try to drop it again? in a controlled way of course, or you can try to cool the unit by putting in on a refrigerator.
Please dont follow above suggestion if you are still not on desperate mode.
You should be able to see the light from the LED through the vents on the bottom edge of the console, especially in a darkened room.
Also, I find it's easier to diagnose the sequence of lights if recorded and played back on a phone.
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